I checked the brass looking "button" on the brake switch by pressing it on and off,but the brake lights still did'nt illuminate,I know the proper way is to check the voltage going through it,but is the simple method I did enough to say that it is the brake switch and would that switch be my last thing I need to check at all in the circuit of the brake lights?
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Do you still have the old switch and are you sure that the hitch pin is in place holding the switch in the right position there might have been a nylon bushing on the brake pedal shaft that's missing if you press the pedal while looking at the switch and it partially moves this is the problem that switch is not to move and the rod should press in the switches plunger which activates the lights I'm going to try to find a photo watch for the next post
The turn signal switch and the hazard switch are likly places to look. To checjk the fuses is'nt to take them out and look at them but to test to see if power will go though them, I use a test light ( a tool that looks like an ice pick with a wire coming out of the handle and the handle is clear with a light bulb inside). with the clip connected to a good ground as you touch the back sides of the fuses the light will light if it only lights on one side, the fuse is blown ( does'nt matter what it looks like ) a bad fuse can look good. the turn signal switch is involved as is the Hazard switch. If you pusth the hazard switch and the lights light good then you know that the lights and the sockets are good. You also know that the wires are good . With the key on the turn signals should work front and back ( thier different cicruits) If only working in the front the turn signal switch is bad provided the hazards worked all the way around. Does the high mount stop light work? It works off of it's own circuit on the brake light switch and if no lights work your back to the fuses only after you checked to see if the high mount bulbs are good. Your car is plenty old enough to have them be burnt out. If the high mount doesn't work with the bulbs known to be good and then you check with the test light to see if the power isd getting to the brake light switch. One wire is hot with the key off and another comes hot with the key on ( the cruze control switch in the brake light).
It could be one of three things, the bulbs could have burnt out only for the brake filament...replace a bulb and check.
There is a sensor under the brake pedal that turns those lights on..that could be broken, it looks like a button.
Could also be a fuse, but thats the least likely.
there is a switch above the brake pedal that turns the brake lights on when u depress the pedal, use a volt meter set to DC volts and check for voltage to the switch and out of it when the brake pedal is depressed, see p[icture of switch below
CHECK MAKE SURE BATTERY FULLY CHARGED IT HAS TO BE 12.5 VOLTS BEFORE THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK SOLENOID WORKS.IF BATTERY POWER GOOD CHECK BRAKE LIGHTS TO SEE IF BRAKE LIGHTS SWITCH IS WORKING.IF NO CHECK FUSE.IF FUSE GOOD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS FAULTY. IT CONTROL THE BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT SOLENOID ALSO THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH.IF FUSE AND BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS GOOD.YOUR PROBLEM COULD BE A FAULTY NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH OR BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT SOLENOID FAULTY.
Try checking the brake light switch located behind the brake pedal, it will be mounted in a metal bracket with a little button that contacts the pedal, make sure the button in being slightly pressed in while the pedal is at rest, if not you can bend the bracket back into place. if everything looks fine its more than likely a bad brake light switch giving you the problems.
hi from uk from symtom you describe this is a fault with brake light switch just try this 1st ? have someone watch brake lights while you pull brake pedal up if lights go off ? then simple remedy look at pedal just below its pivot shaft you will see a switch with plug attached with two wires this switch has a plunger that when pedal pressed plunger moves out to put b/lights on then lights go off when pedal is off as it pushes plunger back and breaks the circuit to adjust this just pull off plug from switch then with pedal pressed off switch you simply rotate the switch a full rotation screw clockwise then refit plug now plunger should be fully back and so lights off ? if nt repeat above once more till lights off lights will go off this is trial+error adjustment till lights operate on with pedal down 1/2 inch brake lights on! hope you understand above this is not unusual fault as switch plunger is plastic and so wears ?
Check the brake light switch. It is in the drivers floor board, behind the brake peddle. The switch looks like a box with a button on it. the brake peddle is pressed, and presses the brake light switch. If the switch sticks, the brake lights will stay on.
It's most likely the brake light switch (aka Stoplight switch) located at the upper brake pedal. Some of these are adjustable, if not it's Probably shot. If you disconnect the wire from it and jump the wire, the brake lights should go on. If they do, the switch is shot. About $25-$30 part. Curt
Check the switch that comes into contact with the brake pedal arm. Run your hand up from the pedal itself to the first thing you feel-it's most likely the switch. With the car running-in park- press the button on the switch that touches the arm the pedal is attached to. If the lights come on-then adjust the switch ( if I remember right this is done by turning the nut that holds the switch). if they don't come on-replce the switch