I used GM head gaskets.THe oil bearly comes out of the rocker arms.So they are very noisy.The pressure at the sending unit is 40 psi.Everything is new and I soaked the rockers in a can of oil for 2days.I did adry adjustment on the rockers and running adj. no oil,still clicking. need help.
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Re: 1985 chevy m/c oil at rockers
Hello again, Thanks for your response and further details, I have to say your unit it not one I'm too familiar with BUT all Engines are similar in many ways and I have done lots of Head rebuilds and gas conversions on Small & Big Blocks.Remember I'm across the Pond U.K. O.K. Oil ways seem to be the problem here, I can't suggest much as I'm not looking at the Engine. I can only summize. I recently had a Cam seizure on a 4D51 Diesel Mitsubishi (Pajero/Montero) un-beknown to me the oil runs up the centre of the rocker shaft its is fed via the the Aluminium rocker shaft carriers. As this vehicle had suffered a Cam Belt break the Valves had ripped the whole Valve train off the top of the head, so clever Me Heli coiled the threads and on the last two had to use larger bolts. I didn't realise I had blocked the flow of oil????? So maybe your rocker shaft oil supply is blocked somewhere? possibly a shaft in back to front? or carrier cap on wrong base? I know we all make mistakes but sometimes it is really annoying when it is staring us in the Face and we just don't see it. 2 Heads?? eH! Good Luck! Please keep me updated, I'll do some more research and if not solved on this session please return with full description of engine and numbers etc. Paul 'W'
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these are adjusted the same way 5.7 litre motors have been adjusted since GM started making this size of motor. with every thing in place tighten rocker nuts down until about 1/16" threads is protruding above nut. once the car starts allow the engine pressure to build and oil is squirting around rockers. then with engine running tighten down rockers that are noisy until the noise has just gone. then back off nut until it starts to clatter then tighten 3/4 of a turn. repeat to all the other rockers and your done.
This is kind of hard to judge without hearing it. Lets say the noise is the pellets in the Catalytic converter that some types of automakers used, with low flow at idle, the loose pellets can bounce around until the flow increases and pins them to the insides of the Catalytics.
However, if you rebuilt the motor you would know some mechanical stuff. I can move on to more possibilities.
Oil pressure starvation can make the pushrods rattle in the rocker arms. The engine oil pressure will cushion the critical area between the rocker arm and the pushrod seat.
On the rebuilds, have you worked on the heads? Like valve spring tension and pushrod clearance? I have had engines that would idle perfect until accelerated and return to idle clanging and missing. The valve springs were shot. Then I have had some GM motors that had hydraulic lifters yet the pushrods were different lengths and that is how the pushrod clearance was made; by changing individual pushrods to get the correct clearance.
This is something that can occur when the valve seats are cut. The valve stem can ride up into the head slightly when the seats are cut.
Now you may have replaced the camshaft or the lifters or not. But it is recommended that each lifter is paired with a camshaft lobe. If you mixed the lifters into different positions, you may have distortions that are resulting in noisy clearance problems. For that matter, camshaft bearings may be loose.
The Jeep and American Motors cars used a 232 CID engine too. Can't say what components were different but you may have mixed parts.
Now some models used a Rattle or knock sensor, and in the old days, you could get a rattle from weak distributor springs in the breaker plate. The mechanical advance would throw out too fast.
Spark Plugs: 20-25
Cylinder Head Bolts: 60-70
Intake Manifold: 25-35
Exhaust Manifold: 18-22
Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket: none
Rocker Arm Covers: 25 (inch/lbs)
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts: 30-35
Main Bearing Cap Bolts: 60-70
Flywheel to Crankshaft: 55-65
Vibration Damper or Pulley: Pressed on
the lifter noise might have been a bearing going bad or a piston ring. if you lost power you probably lost compression on one cylinder. Try checking your compression with a compression tester screwed into your spark plug socket. here is a site with a procedure. http://www.automedia.com/Engine_Compression_Test/ccr20050801cc/1
If engine is noisy then you have an actual oil pressure concern.Sending unit only reads the pressure. I would recommend you have an actual oil pressure test done to see what your oil pressure is.You didn't mention what engine you have but rule of thumb is 30 psi at 1500 rpm warm engine.
From your very brief description, oil only trickles? do you mean No oil pressure? slow oil circulation? or takes forever to drain?
Just a thought have you replaced the correct head gaskets and are they fitted the right way? As if not the oil and water channels may be blocked?
Is the oil pump o.k.?
Hope this helps!