Question about 1995 Nissan Maxima
It blows cold air
You need to check your coolant level first & make sure its up where it should be. If that doesn't cure your problem, or you've already topped it up, please get back to us.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
Check antifreeze level and make sure that its fine if all is good. Feel heater hoses that go into heater core (they are the two hoses that are going through the fire wall should be warm/hot when vehicle is warmed up and heat is turn ON. If hoses are hot, then the heater box doors are at fault (May not be closing so you get cold air) To check operation warm vehicle up and turn engine off engine, turn ignition On (daah board lights ON) Turn temperature control (switch with hot/cold-red/blue) all the way on cold. With ignition still On turn heat knob slowly toward hot in a Quite are you should hear doors closing and when you turn to cold should hear it open. If this doesn't work that your problem. However that could mean 1 of 2 things the actuator that opens and loses the door is not work or the actual control lever is bad. Check under dash for loose or disdisconnected vacuum hoses that may mean that vacuum came off control it work by vacuum to open and close. Check these things and get back to me. I don't want to give you too much info at once. Good Luck and Thanks for using FIX YA
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
The aerostar has a vacuum operated watervalve in the heater tubing.the valve is located on the
passenger side inner fender behind the aircleaner.with someone operating the controls inside the van
you can check to see if you get vaccum by removing the tiny hose that goes to the water valve
and checking for suction as you in the van person operates the heater conthttp://www.fixya.com/PostAnswer.aspx?thid=1323651&prdid=696348rols. If you have no
vaccum there is a break in the hose between the intake manifold and the valve. If you do get
vaccum check to see if the valve changes position from vaccum on to vaccum off. you can see
this motion on the small lever on the side of the valve. If the valve lever doesn't move you can
move it manually to allow the water to flow through the heater core. if the valve won't move manually
there is an obstruction in the valve. If it does move manually the vaccum diaphragm is gone.
replace the valve. if it moves to the manual open position you can hold it open with a tywrap.
before you get to this point you should first check to see that there is enough coolant in the
radiator. If you still have no heat you can check the coolant flow through the heater core. to do
this remove both heater hoses from the valve and pump water from a hose into one of the hoses
water should flow from the other hose. If it doesn't the heater core is blocked. The rear heater
operates the same way with the watervalve under the van just behind the drivers seat.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Did you check your coolant level or was it low and you added to it at some point? If so the system my need to be bleed or worst case the thermostat is going bad.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
Simple thing to test first would be to pressure check the radiator cap. Next would be to check for combustion gases in the radiator indicating a leaking head gasket. It is an aluminum head and iron block engine and there is a possibility that antifreeze anti corrosionpackage runs out due to over age then fails due to too long in the engine it results in galvanic corrosion at the head gasket-commonly resulting in a failed head gasket. There are other engines that are vastly more prone to this than the maxima engine. If there is a leaking head gasket the gases could rise to the top of the system and block the water flow into the heater. Listen for gurgling sound in the heater.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
You will need R134a, and a filler hose. Charge the system on the low pressure side, it should have a blue cap on the charge point.
Your filler hose will only fit the low pressure side, just in case the cap has been removed.
Posted on May 23, 2009
check the antifreeze level as well you may have a clogged heater-core if one hose is hot and the other cold then it is in need of being flushed out you can do it yourself by removing both ends from the water pump and a garden-hose and slowly push the clog -out then replace hoses and secure clamps .....also recheck fluid and fill as necessary
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
SOURCE: blowing cold air via the heater
Assuming that none of the Electrical/Electronic controls were disturbed when changing the Thermostat it seems to me that you have an "Air Lock" within the heater. One must purge all the air out of the cooling system as close to the highest point as possible after the system has been partially or fully drained. Most of the time one will find small BRASS Bleeder Valves located somewhere near the highest point. Open each one while the system is pressurized and let Air escape until some Coolant escapes. Sometimes it may be necessary to loosen a Heater Hose and bleed the air at that point. Remember that the system MUST BE PRESSURIZED to accomplish the Bleeding of Air. Many auto parts stores sell hand pumps with a pressure gauge for this purpose and leak testing. These pumps typically replace the Radiator Pressure Cap temporarily. The system does not have to be at normal operating temperature to bleed the air out. Once the Air has been bled you will have to refill the radiator to normal full and make sure that the Coolant Recovery Tank level is also brought up to recommended level. A quick check is to remove the Radiator Pressure Cap, Start the Engine, Rev the engine suddenly (A short Jab) and see if the coolant level falls rapidly in the radiator. If it does it is definitely an AIR LOCK situation.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you, I'll do the quick jab test to determine the air lock and proceed with bleeding"
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