Ok when i am drivin my car the check engine light and the temperature light comes on, it doesnt have a guage so i cannot tell if it is just coming on because of a short or what, it only does it when it wants to do it, so i can drive for 3 days straight and then on the 4th day it will deside to do it. Also the fan won't come on all the time, It also idle's super super high sounds like a darn jet plane but it only does that when the lights come on, when they do the car can drive sometimes but it acts like the fuel pump is bad in it and it bogs really bad and dies 9/10 times, the auto mechanic i took it to said it was a bad coil pack??? I replaced the coil pack with a chrysler one, not really sure if it matters cause they look 99% the same, but after doin this it didn't effect the problem in the car, also the exhaust pipe leading from the front of the motor was red cherry hot one time but has never done it before or after that drive.... I really need to no what is wrong...
I can only help with a couple of the problems....you probably need new fan relay switches which if you are facing the car usually mounted on the front left hand side.....if they are bad the fan will not run, if the fan is not running your car will overheat. The fan relay switches look like black square boxes, I believe there are two of them, high speed and low speed.
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I have a 1989 Park Avenue with the same problem. It's most likely a problem with the float in the fuel tank. Check and clean the wiring and connectors coming from the sending unit in the gas tank. If that doesn't help then you will need have the float and sending unit removed from the tank and replaced.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
They only had problems with the 125 transmission. The torque convertor sol. would stick and to get it started you would have to put itt in neutral and when you shift to drive it would cut off again. I believe you have a 440 transmission.
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill 4 speed THM440-T4..........7.6 liters 3 speed THM125C..........6.6 liters If your just topping off the fluid, make sure the transmission is at it's operatingtemperature and the level should between add and full on the transmission dipstick while the engine is running on level ground in park. Take two reading if not three, the last reading is always the one your go with. Good luck and hope this helps.
you say you have no heat even after vech has warmed up by the gauge. you may have a themostat that has stuck open and this will cause a ilde problem also since the ecm looks at temp check stat operation change if you have any doubth at all . kdc744
One thing that may be causing problems for you, and it would probably be the first thing I would check is your catalytic converter for being plugged. Engine bogs, and manifold red hot, temperature light, would be reason enough for me to get that checked. Years ago, you could buy what they referred to as a test pipe, for that, which was basically a piece of exhaust pipe put in place of converter, which I suspect any custom exhaust place with bender, can fabricate for you, if necessary. Check oil & coolant levels too, as oil may be experiencing premature thinning due to excessive heat, as well as coolant level going down. Hopefully if it is confirmed converter is problem, we caught it soon enough .