I have a 89 jeep Cherokee and when it runs for an hour or so it will stall out. When it cools down it sometimes will start right back up and sometimes it takes a few cranks. I have replaced the module under the coil and it still does it.
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does your temp gage seem off does it go like up to the h because if it does you could try unpluging your upper coolent sensor because that could cause that because it is telling you computer to run in closed loop when it should be running in open loop
check the O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold with a automotive meter not a code reader ,then trade it in for a diesel manual version as these are impressive but 4.7 litre gas guzler at our petrol prices about 10 dollars a gallon in the -uk and around 7/8 dollars here in spain this vehicle you couldnt give away here
After it stalls, have someone listen at the tank to see if the fuel pump is running when you turn the key on. If you can't hear it, it has failed (they overheat and bind, when cooled down they work 'till they again get hot). if the pump is running, likely the crank position sensor (11 o'clock on the bellhousing looking from rear) has failed....symptom is pretty much identical.
Start the engine cold and as it warms up, pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve and see if it keeps running. If it does, replace the EGR valve. The reason the lights are all coming on and the gauges go to zero is because the engine dies and when it starts they return to normal. The EGR valve can stay stuck closed from carbon deposits which is fine for the warm up mode but it needs to open when the engine is warm or it will choke it out. This is not unusual and you will need to replace it. Look on the internet for your make and model an image of your EGR valve it will be easier than explaining it to you. They are in most cases on or connected to the intake manifold or intake plenum.*** Please rate me on this answer.***
Two common items that can cause that problem are your fuel pump (will not set a code) and the crankshaft position sensor (will sometimes set a code but not always) Don't run to the store and buy either without testing. Sometimes just banging on the bottom of the fuel tank will help in re-start if the pump is going bad. CPS only begins to work after it cools down. There are specific tests listed in both chilton and Haynes manuals. Don't guess on repairs...test first or you can spend a ton of $ and still have the same problem!!
check intake manifold air temp sensor and engine coolant sensor...one may be out of range but not enough to turn on dash light. tests and specs can be found in chiltons or haynes, test is done with digital multi-meter.
You need to check components again when the engine is hot and in no-start condition, otherwise, you will get bad info...obviously whichever part is doing this works fine cold. ones that react most to heat are crank pickup, ignition coil and the fuel pump.(bad ones get hot and bind up)
Your ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor is bad. What's happening is at cold start it richens up the fuel mixture and as it warms up the ECM thinks it's still cold and essentially the "choke" is still on. Also check your coolant level. If you don't have enough coolant in you engine/radiator, the ECT doesn't know what to do so it thinks it's cold.