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It is nearly impossible to drive a true four wheel drive on normal roads because the front wheels travel further than the rear wheels there is soon wind-up between the axles and one wheel must be jacked from the ground to release it so a little further can be driven.
It is for that reason such measures as an overrun clutch is used in the drive to the front or a viscous coupling to the rear, effectively making road cars into part-time 4 wheel drive vehicles. In the case of the former the front wheels will only drive noticeably when traction is lost to the rear. This makes it difficult to check whether there is drive to the front.
Raising the rear of the vehicle on level ground, using a wheeled trolley jack and then gently attempting to drive forward will soon prove whether there is drive to the front wheels.
If there really is no drive the fault is likely to lie within the transfer box or any electronic control system and more research will be needed.
if you have lifted the front suspension by 3 inches then that is 3 inches less travel for the shocky piston to move when the suspension goes down. You have probably damaged the piston and shaft of the shocky. Replace with longer travel shockys.
Unless there is a deflated basketball stuffed inside your catalytic converter, no that is not the problem. you could be having one of many different issues. if its an old car it just might not have the pep it used to, due to piston ring wear leading to less compression. it could also be that the motor is misfiring on one or more cylinders causing the fuel to ignite at the wrong time, causing more work for the other cylinders. make sure you are not hauling anything above your cars ability or specifications. other than that id say check the air intake filter for any obstructions-even a coat of fine dust, and replace if appropriate. throw a small container of injector cleaner in a half a tank of gas and see what happens before taking it to a mechanic.
Was the rod that the pads travel on greased with the correct type grease and the other possibility would be if it has flexible brake line to the front calipers, it is possible that the inner liner is collapsing and not letting the pressure all the way off. I had a similar problem with a saab but it was much older than your vehicle
This issue usually occurs when the vehicle is between 60 - 70 mph. There is no official solution to this issue, it should have been a Ford recall, as this fault is dangerous.
There is a known malfunction in the fly by wire system that is suspected to be the cause of this system failure. The throttle body assembly gets replaced when this occurs as a possible solution to the problem. Check
the connections on the 2 tps sensors first before assuming the
replacement is necessary.
If you have turned the car whilst in 4WD on a hard surface, you will cause transmission "wind-up". This is where the lack of a centre differential means that the front and rear drive shafts have to turn at the same speed no matter what. As the rear wheels don't have to travel as far as the front wheels when turning, this places an enormous amount of load on the transfer box - to the extent that you may not be able to shift the transfer lever out of 4WD. If jammed in 4WD, to reduce this load on the transfer gears, with the steering turned, slowly move the car in the opposite direction to what you were last travelling and apply a light amount of force on the transfer lever as though to remove it from 4WD. As you "un-wind" the transmission, the load on it will decrease and the lever should pop out of 4WD. The solution to this occuring is to disengage 4WD before getting back onto hard asphalt. This doesn't happen on dirt or ice as the wheels are able to slip so the wind-up of the transmission doesn't occur.