Question about 1999 Dodge Ram

2 Answers

1995 dodge ram 1500 4wd, vacuum line

Vacuum line from transfer case is disconnected above front of transmission (bolts to housing) cant locate ewhere it goes--any ideas?

Posted by on

  • 9 more comments 
  • patrick_gorh Jan 07, 2009

    I will check--thanks

  • patrick_gorh Jan 07, 2009

    I will check--thanks

  • patrick_gorh Jan 07, 2009

    no problem thanks for update

  • patrick_gorh Jan 08, 2009

    still no luck--not sure where the 4 x 4 switch on dash is --couldnt locate it.

  • patrick_gorh Jan 08, 2009

    thanks appreciate the input--drawing would be great

  • patrick_gorh Jan 10, 2009

    thanks for the help, i will look saturday am.

  • patrick_gorh Jan 11, 2009

    it is a 3/8 tube, runs from transfer case i bolts to transmission on top, the shift motor assembly hoses are connected so its not that. cant find anything else to attach it to. where would breather tube connect? if not connected what would symptons be? thanks

  • patrick_gorh Jan 11, 2009

    in my book it shows the transfer case vent tube, it appears to be open to atmospehere, and not connected to anything???

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    what lines need postive vacuum to transfer case 1985 ramcharger

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    What is the size of the AC disconnect line tool for a Dodge Ram 1500 2003 and which size is the male insert goes.

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    Where are the vacuum lines located

×

2 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 133 Answers

You sure its not the breather tube for the t-case. about 3/8 hose if it is. the vacuum lines for the 4x4 are small plastic lines. red, blue, yellow, etc. think there are four of them

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • robert morse Jun 23, 2013

    i saw your thread about the color coded vacuum tubes coming out of a cluster on top of the tranny/transfer case, i have a 96 ram1500 5.9 and found that the green vacuum line was melted off at the top of the engine and cannot locate where it actually is supposed to terminate... help? BO @ siikworld6969@yahoo.com

×

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Novelist:

    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 123 Answers

To the auto-locking hubs?

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Tim Higgins
    Tim Higgins Jan 07, 2009

    could come from the 4x4 switch on the dash also - shoulda said that earlier...

  • Tim Higgins
    Tim Higgins Jan 08, 2009

    I'll look it up on my ALLDATA later today and message you back with either a diagram or a description.

  • Tim Higgins
    Tim Higgins Jan 10, 2009

    It goes from the transfer case to the 4WD locking pump which lies along the front axle, driver side I think, between the differential and the U-bolts that hold the suspension. Its not that small so you shouldnt miss it. I cant see from my diagram the location of the vacuum port but I think it will be evident on examination.

    Hope thats te thing...rate me if you get time..thanks

  • Tim Higgins
    Tim Higgins Jan 10, 2009

    It goes from the transfer case to the 4WD locking pump which lies along the front axle, driver side I think, between the differential and the U-bolts that hold the suspension. Its not that small so you shouldnt miss it. I cant see from my diagram the location of the vacuum port but I think it will be evident on examination.

    Hope thats te thing...rate me if you get time..thanks

  • Tim Higgins
    Tim Higgins Jan 10, 2009

    It goes from the transfer case to the 4WD locking pump which lies along the front axle, driver side I think, between the differential and the U-bolts that hold the suspension. Its not that small so you shouldnt miss it. I cant see from my diagram the location of the vacuum port but I think it will be evident on examination.

    Hope thats te thing...rate me if you get time..thanks

×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Im getting ready to pull the transmission out of my 95 isuzu trooper with the 3.2l engine 4x4. Im not to smart about the inside of them, does the 4L30e have tranny bolts th hold the housing to tranny


why not login in to mitchell DIY, (goggle it ) and read.
or go to any online, 4L30 parts house and read.
lots of those, can all found easy using "GOOGLE"
here.
search, (4L30 parts)
3rd hit MAKCO
see the graphic there, click it.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/4L30E.html

you need to remove the TC, bolts first
the bell housings bolts to the engine,
those come off, with tranny jack in place.
all the steps are in the service manual.
4wd.
quote (a wall of text, why not buy the book?)

& Transfer Case Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal 4L30-E Transmission

4L30-E Transmission(removal

Print
4L30-E Transmission
Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector

Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector
Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener
Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses

Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses


NOTE

The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission housing. Although the 2 cases can be separated, the transfer case should be removed with the transmission.

Use a felt-tipped marker to matchmark the hood to the hood hinges. Remove the hood.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Shift the transmission into the N position, and the transfer case into the 2H position.

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the transfer case shift knob. Remove the 4 transmission cover console retaining screws.

Remove the center console assembly and disengage the console switch wiring connectors.

Disconnect the shift lock cable and the shift control rod from the selector lever assembly.

Unbolt and remove the transfer case control lever.

Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the transmission and transfer case skid plates.

Remove the exhaust pipe protectors.

Drain the transmission fluid. For more information servicing the transmission fluid pan and filter, refer to Section 1.

Label and detach the oxygen sensor connectors.

Remove the catalytic converter, center exhaust pipe and front exhaust pipe, as described in Section 3.

Matchmark the front and rear driveshafts to the differential and transfer case flanges.

Unbolt and remove the front and rear driveshafts, as described later in this section.

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

Remove the brackets securing the oil cooler lines to the engine stiffener.

Remove the front suspension crossmember.

Remove the dipstick and tube. Disconnect the breather hoses from the tube.

Remove the 5 engine stiffener bracket bolts and the stiffener bracket.

Remove the heat protector.

Disengage the transmission harness connectors and the mode switch harness connector from the engine harness.

Disconnect the harness clamp from the clamp bracket.

Disconnect the ground cable from the engine.

Remove the starter motor, as described in Section 2.

Remove the flexplate inspection cover.

Remove the 3 bolts securing the flexplate to the torque converter. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to all 3 bolts.

NOTE

Remove the radiator upper fan shroud and the cooling fan to access the crankshaft center bolt to turn the crankshaft.

Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission and transfer case unit for support.

Raise the transmission slightly and remove the 8 bolts securing the rear mount and the transmission crossmember.

NOTE

Make sure the engine and transmission assembly is properly supported before removing the rear mount and third crossmember.

Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.

Separate the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission from the vehicle.
end removal quote

Mar 04, 2017 | Isuzu Trooper Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2001 Dodge Ram 4X4.Why won't Front axle engage 4wdr


check that free wheeling hubs are engaged (manual or vacuum operated or electrical operated )

Aug 16, 2014 | RAM 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 chevy blazer transfer case removal


How to Remove a Chevy Blazer Rear Transfer Case The transfer case on a Chevrolet Blazer is underneath the vehicle, mounted to the rear of the transmission. On four-wheel drive vehicles, the transfer case takes power generated by the engine and channeled through the transmission and directs it to the front and rear drive axles. Over time, the gears and bearings inside the transfer case can wear and the transfer case must be rebuilt. The transfer case on this vehicle must be removed before it can be serviced.
Things You'll Need
  • Wrench set
  • Floor jack
  • Jack stands
  • Socket set
  • Masking tape
  • Marker
  • Needle-nose pliers
Hide Instructions
  1. Removing the Driveshafts
    • 1 Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.
  • 2 Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.
  • 3 Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.
  • 4 Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.
  • 5 Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.
  • Removing the Transfer Case
    • 6 Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.
    • 7 Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.
    • 8 Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.
    • 9 Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.
    • 10 Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle

    Jul 27, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to remove transfer case from 2002 tahoe


    • Disconnect the ground cable from the negative battery terminal, by using a wrench to loosen the retaining bolt and pulling the clamp off the terminal.

    • 2

      Raise the vehicle and support with jack stands placed underneath the frame.

    • 3

      Drain the transfer case. Locate the drain plug near the bottom of the transfer case. Place a waste oil collection pan underneath the plug and use a socket to remove it. Once all the fluid has drained out, reinstall the plug.

    • 4

      Remove the bolts that connect the rear driveshaft to the rear axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it backward underneath the rear axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove it from the vehicle.

    • 5

      Remove the bolts that connect the front driveshaft to the front axle yoke using a socket. Lower the driveshaft, and slide it forward underneath the front axle to disengage it from the transfer case. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle.

    Removing the Transfer Case
    • 1

      Label and disconnect the electrical wires and vacuum lines connected to the transfer case. Use masking tape and a marker.

    • 2

      Remove the transfer case shifter rod. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the clip that connects the shifter rod to the transfer case. Slide the rod away from the transfer case.

    • 3

      Position a floor jack underneath the transfer case. Raise it enough to take the weight of the transfer case off the transmission.

    • 4

      Remove the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission using a socket or wrench.

    • 5

      Slide the transfer case rearward to disengage it from the transfer case. Lower the floor jack, and remove the transfer case from the vehicle.


    Jan 20, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    I am wanting to install a transmission in a 1998 jeep wrangler se. 4.0 cyl 2.5 liter I will need to take out the old one first. I've never done it before and any help would be great


    Instructions vary depending upon if its a stick or automatic transmission. Your best bet if you haven't ever done anything like that is to get yourself a chilton or haynes manual. Both have text and pictures to help with the job. With hanynes, you may need the transmission manual instead of the regular repair one if its an automatic...check the contents before you buy it.
    When doing an automatic, it's advisable to remove the crank sensor from the bellhousing as often they get damaged accidentally when working in there. If you need to remove the flywheel, make sure you mark it's position so you can put it back exactly the same way it was installed.
    Make sure you have a flat solid area to work on. Transmissions need to be supported so notheing get's damaged. To do that, you need a place where you can move a jack easily. If you need to work on dirt etc, buy a sheet of 5/8" plywood to put underneath.

    Mar 25, 2011 | 1998 Jeep Wrangler

    3 Answers

    Were is the vac switch on the transfer case for the 4 wheel drive


    Hi, the vacuum switch is located in the top of the transfer case, in the area where the front drve shaft goes out. There is a 3 vacuum hose connector that attaches to it. Good luck...Coop

    Dec 26, 2010 | 1995 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    I need to know how to seperate my transmission from my block


    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
    3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
    4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
    5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
    6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
    7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
    8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
    9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
    10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
    11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
    12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
    13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
    14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
    15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
    16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
    17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
    18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
    19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
    20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
    21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
    22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
    23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
    24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
    25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
    26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
    27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
    28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
    29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
    30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
    31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
    32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
    33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
    34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
    35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
    AOD
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.
    3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
    4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter.
    5. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
    6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
    7. On 2WD drive models, matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
    8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
    9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
    10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
    11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
    12. Remove the two bolts securing the bell crank bracket to the converter housing.
    13. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.
    14. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
    15. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
    16. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
    17. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
    18. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
    19. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
    20. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
    21. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
    22. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture.
    23. Tighten the converter drain plug. To install:
    24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
    25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
    26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.
    27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
    28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).
    29. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.
    prev.gif next.gif

    Nov 03, 2010 | 1991 Ford F150

    1 Answer

    How does transmission come out


    prev.gif next.gif Transmission Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION C6
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. From in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts.
    3. Disconnect the neutral switch wire at the in-line connector.
    4. Remove the bolt securing the fluid filler tube to the engine cylinder head.
    5. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
    6. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
    7. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
    8. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
    9. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
    10. On 2WD drive models, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
    11. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
    12. Disconnect the downshift and manual linkage rods from the levers at the transmission.
    13. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission.
    14. Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum diaphragm unit. Remove the vacuum line retaining clip.
    15. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor.
    16. On 4WD drive models remove the transfer case.
    17. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-attaching bolts.
    18. Remove the two engine rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
    19. Remove the six bolts securing the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails.
    20. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack and remove both crossmembers.
    21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the safety chain.
    22. Remove the remaining converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts.
    23. Move the transmission away from the engine. Lower the jack and remove the converter and transmission assembly from under the vehicle. To install:
    24. Tighten the converter drain plug.
    25. Position the converter on the transmission making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear.
    26. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission on the jack with the chain.
    27. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with their holes in the flywheel.
    28. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
    29. Install the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) for the diesel; 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) for gasoline engines.
    30. Remove the transmission jack safety chain from around the transmission.
    31. Position the No. 2 crossmember to the frame side rails. Install and tighten the attaching bolts.
    32. Install transfer case on 4WD drive models.
    33. Position the engine rear support and insulator assembly above the crossmember. Install the rear support and insulator assembly-to-extension housing mounting bolts and tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
    34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
    35. Secure the engine rear support and insulator assembly to the crossmember with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
    36. The balance of installation is the reverse of removal.

    Aug 26, 2010 | 1993 Ford F250

    1 Answer

    Transfer case removal


    first remove both front and rear driveshafts. Then remove skid plate underneath transfer case. Remember to unplug the electric motor wiring harness for explorers with electronic four wheel drive switching. Remove vacuum line on the top of transfer case. Unbolt Speedometer cable mount from top/rear of transfer case. Remove five bolts connecting the transfer case to the transmission, this step will cause some transmission fluid to leak from the shaft housing (approx. half a litre) so place a drain pan underneath. Remember to either place a jack or wood blocking under transfer case before removing the last bolt connecting the transfer case as it is heavy (approx. 80-90 lbs.).

    May 12, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    1999 Dodge Ram 4X4 vacuum diagram


    that line is just the breather tube for the tcase. the 4x4 vacuum lines are hard plastic lines that run from the tcase to the front axle disconnect

    Jul 25, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    1999 Dodge Ram Logo

    2,353 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Dodge Experts

    yadayada
    yadayada

    Level 3 Expert

    70387 Answers

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    22041 Answers

    Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte

    Level 3 Expert

    6878 Answers

    Are you a Dodge Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...