Problem with No Heat on 2005 Chevy Avalanche - Cooling System?
When I first start the truck, it warms up as normal on the temperature gauge, takes about 10 minutes - five-six miles of driving to reach 210 degress. But then the gauge shoots up to to around 230-240 degrees. It will then stay there for another couple miles. Then drops back to 210 degrees like normal. But then I lose my Hot Air from the heater. I do not recall this being a normal condition on the temperature gauge? And the heater used to always blow heat for me. I am not sure if this a Water Pump issue or a Thermostat issue? At first it appeared to be something wrong with the Heating System. But the temperature gauge has me looking to the cooling system issue. Has anyone else seen this before on a Chevy Avalanche?
Re: Problem with No Heat on 2005 Chevy Avalanche -...
It is most likey a sticking thermostat it either gets stuck closed or open in your case closed so collant isnt getting to the heater core and all you get is cold air blowing into the truck.
its a simple fix you can either do it your self or take it to a mechanic. now remember there are differnt thermostes so think about the climat you live in and get one according to that
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What you describe is quite normal. While the engine is running and the coolant is circulating the thermostat maintains the engine within its operating temperature range. When the engine is switched off there is still considerable heat within the engine and the coolant will continue to absorb this heat. With no coolant circulation, the coolant inside the engine will register a temperature rise to the extent your gauge measures. This temperature rise may persist for up to 15 minutes until the natural thermo-syphon of the cooling system starts to dissipate this heat build up and the engine starts to cool down. Because the cooling system is pressurised, the coolant is prevented from boiling off at this temperature above boiling point. Once the engine is restarted the coolant flow is re-established taking this excess heat from the engine and the system temperature returns to normal.
Hi Code P 0217 does point to the thermostat but it also points to the wiring, cooling system, and the temperature sensor, to check the thermostat start engine then once the temperature gauge in the car reaches normal the thermostat should open and the top hose that goes into the radiator will warm up quickly as the thermostat opens, if the thermostat is stuck in it's open position the top hose will start warming up before the engine reaches it's working temperature, hopefully i have explained it clearly,
Check the coolant level. in the winter time It will not over heat very easily but vapor locks can occur and low coolant level will do what your describing ...When you drive the water pump is spinning faster causing coolant to intermittently flow through the heater core so it gets warm then cold at an idle.. also a thermostat that is stuck open will also cause this its also in the cooling system, if the cooling system is full I would replace the thermostat..good luck hope this helps
Chevy made some weak intake gaskets on 3.1 and 3.4. My guess is that the intake gasket is weak and/or leaking and it is letting pressure out somewhere. At idle maybe the system pressure is to little to push hot coolant into the heater core.
You may have vapour lock in your heater lines. Start engine, put heat lever on high, disconnect one of the lines on your heater core, the one on the flow out side, & see if you have any air coming out. Once antifreese comes out stick line back on & retighten clamp. Make sure your cooling system is topped off. Also your water pump may not be functionihg to it's maximum. Take rad cap off cold & view flow rate. If inadequate you may have to replace the water pump. Good luck!
I have seen this happen to a few cars when they were running REALLY low on coolant (anti-freeze) AND/OR had a major air pocket trapped in the cooling system.
Heres whats going on:
The gauge is driven by a temperature sensor that sticks into the cooling system. When your really low on coolant, some times the temperature sensor is exposed to air, instead of liquid coolant and the temperature of the sensor drops. As your driving around sometimes liquid coolant touches the sensor and the temperature reading will spike again to normal readings or to an even hotter reading then normal (because what little fluid is in the system is not enough to maintain proper temps).
If you recently filled up or topped off the coolant from a low coolant situation then you may have a major air bubble locked in the system, although this is far less likely in the small Sentra cooling system, but you never know.
Lastly, the sensor itself or the plug into the sensor is loose, broken, or shorting. You or someone you know can try to locate the coolant sensor for the gauge and see if the connect to the sensor is loose or the wire have become damaged, giving you readings all over the place.
nissanhelp . com is a great place for help and you can find factory service books on there. You can join for free and ask questions.