1995 dakota 6 cylinder, has thick oil in reservois, does not appear to be coolant in oil, heater not working well, probably plugged up with oil-has not heated well for last 2 winters-runs fine otherwise-oil pressure fluctuates, but stays in normal range.Heater worked poorly last winter also, but definitely did not have oil in it then. More noticable this year because of -20 degree temperatures.However. the radiator coolant does not appear to have oil in it, at least not floating-coolant looks normal in radiator.
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Re: oil in coolant reservois
The details you have supplied point to possible head gasket failure, however if as you say 2 Winters and No problems if it were me I would leave well alone as if you flush the system it might make matters worse and overheating could occur.
Failing that can you temporarily by pass the heater matrix/core if it runs fine and stays cool then a flush possibly will return warmth to the interior.
Keep an eye on coolant as although you reckon No oil in radiator it is coming from somewhere and settling in the heater.
Finally this sounds saft but do you let your local service station check/top up your fluids? If so then possibly someone not too clever has popped oil in your coolant by mistake?
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If you have just a bit more of smoke than usual do a code scanning to check if mixture is rich or lean or if there is misfire or other problem that can affect the engine.
Dark thick smoke is symptom of unburned fuel or oil getting into the cylinder. The smoke can be the result of rich mixture, piston ring problems, valve problems, ring problems or misfire. EGR and PCV system problems also result in smoke from exhaust.
If smoke is only at start and it is dark gray it is probably because of incorrect mixture resulting from another problem.
If problem is piston rings or valves the smoke will be black, thick and smelly because oil gets burned in cylinders. The smoke in this case is not only at start.
Check if you have spark in all cylinders.
Check if one or more of the spark plugs is dirtier than the others. That will tell you if problem is with that (or those) cylinders only.
Do a DTC code scanning using an OBDII reader. In US the code can be done for free at Autozone.
Thick white smoke is instead symptom of water (or coolant) getting into the cylinder. Check if the coolant fluid level is going down by itself. Look for traces of fuel in coolant reservoir. Do a compression test to find out if there is head gasket leakage inside the engine.
open the hood and look on the
firewall. There should be 2 rubber hoses going into the
firewall and into the truck. If factory they will have spring clamps just
like on the radiator hose. Remove both lines. Then get a hose and put
it in one line and run the water until it comes out clear. Then do the
same thing with the other side. Do this a couple of times. Then
reconnect the 2 hoses and check the level of the radiator. Then start
the car with the radiator cap off and wait a while for the thermostat to
open and have the heater on so it will cycle through the whole system.
Then top off as needed. This should fix your problem Tim
Make sure you have the coolant level at the correct level in the bottle resorvoir. If there is not fluid to circulate in the system, the fan will only blow a cool or lukewarm temperature air. If there is enough coolant, check that the water pump is working.
it could be the ff.
1. radiator is clogged
2. no coolant
3. cooling fan is not working fine
4. thermostat valve is stuck up
5. water pump is damaged
6. radiator cap is broken
7. coolant is leaking somewhere
8. the worst is broken cylinder head gasket but broken head gasket always leaves a trace like water is draining w/o a drip or oil is mixing up with your coolant inside reservoir. try eliminating the easy things before deciding to have the cylinder head removed.
Gasket probably will not seal now, and if your going to have to remove water pump to replace it, you might as well put a new pump on as well. The reason for heater cutting in and out, is probably just due to low coolant, and air got into system. When cool, remove rad cap,start engine, and turn heater on while letting it get up to operating temperature, and top up rad as needed, until you see increased flow in rad indicating thermostat has opened and coolant is circulating. Watch for that a couple of times, then put rad cap back on, and top up return bottle to proper level as well. That should get your heat back.
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR Removal
Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder Jack up the car. Remove protection cover from under engine. Drain the coolant. Lower the car. Release coolant hose from thermostat housing using pliers. Remove thermostat housing. Remove sensor.
Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder Jack up the car. Remove protection cover from under engine. Drain the coolant. Lower the car. Loosen oil reservoir for servo pump. Remove coolant reservoir and put it to one side. Remove screws and outer/upper timing-gear casing. Remove screws and wire channel. Disconnect connector. Remove 4 screws and thermostat housing. Remove sensor and wires. Installation Engine temperature sensor, 6-cylinder Install thermostat housing sensor. Position wires in slot on thermostat housing. Note! The white marks should be positioned in lower opening of slot, from underneath. Position gasket on thermostat housing correctly and install thermostat housing using two of the screws. Position thermostat housing correctly and tighten the four screws. Position wire channel correctly and position wire in channel. Tighten screw on wire channel. Connect the connector. Install outer/upper timing-gear casing. Install coolant reservoir. Install oil reservoir for servo pump. Follow-on work, 6-cylinder Fill up coolant. Warm the engine until the thermostat opens. Switch engine oft and check the level. Re-fill if necessary. Check for leaks. Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears correct. Engine temperature sensor, 5-cylinder Install in reverse order. Follow-on work, 5-cylinder Fill up coolant. Warm the engine until the thermostat opens. Switch engine off and check the level. Re-fill if necessary. Check for leaks. Check in VADIS vehicle communication (read-out of parameter values), for current engine system, that the engine temperature shown appears correct.
You probably have a leak in your oil cooler. This is causing the oil to bleed into your cooling system causing the "thick brown liquid". This in turn will also cause your engine to over-heat since the cooling system is contaminated.
The first thing to check is the coolant level, if the coolant is full and the heater core hose is extremely hot to touch, then you may have a door problem. If you like we can work together on this problem. First check the coolant level. Then run the engine until operating temperature, grab each of the heater core hoses and let me know what you find.