The pump works but does not start. I do not know if it is the sensors or the shocks. The shocks have not been replaced but seem to be in good condition. All the connections to the rest of the electronics are good and are clean. Could it be the sensors that are bad?
Re: 2001 yukon xl with auto ride that does not engage
Hi mate, they are definetaly your sensors, if the pump is working but does not start, try, unpluging the sensor cables then plug it back in, and check whether the pump kicks is, if not check your fuses, if any is burnt.
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Fuses have a little u shape piece of metal between the posts. If a short occurs, the center u shape piece will be melted.However if the comp works fuse is probably ok. Possible the ride sensor on the rear end disconnected or damaged .if shop did the replacement take it back to them.if you did it you are going to have to retrace your steps to see if something got missed
i would have to say you have a ride height sensor problem or a leak in the lines that go to your air ride, try getting the system pumped up and useing a spray bottle filled with soapy water to find a leak
It's time to replace the rear shocks. There expensive like $250.00 and up each and if your not going to be towing, most people replace them with a good set of shocks and not the factor OEM air shock which you have for the auto ride height system. If your going to just buy and good set of normal gas shocks. Pull the fuse to the auto ride system so the light on the dash is off.
Good luck and hope this helps. The auto ride system was there for towing heavy trailers to keep the ride hight. The rear suspension is actually soft so you have a soft ride and the shock keeps it from bouncing. If your not towing heavy or carring heavy loads, you should be fine with a conventional gas shocks and you may find it better. I found the Monroe Reflex shocks to be more stable then the OEM around corners and highway driving.
Service light can be due to misfiring in one cylinder, discharged battery, or faulty O2 sensor. Start from battery (you can try jump start) to distributor cap/wiring/spurk plugs/alternator. Also check fuel lines (fuel injectrors, filter, pump). If no help check O2 sensor and coolant temperature sensor.
Please kinly let me know if you would need more info
The air pump in located in the very back-left (driver's) side, underneath.
You know the shocks can "look" quit bad and still be okay.
Everything about this system is expensive (to me).
There is also a height sensor that can go bad and keep the air-pump from running.
I recommand an expert on this system.
Your GM Dealer is your best bet for parts.
Just my opinion.
There's a lever that connects the driver-side rear shock to the Automatic Level Control module (the air compressor and the ride-height sensor). Disconnect the lever from the shock and rotate it up and hold it. The compressor should kick in when you hold in place after a few seconds. If it doesn't kick in, make sure your fuses and relays are good. Otherwise, you may have a failed ALC module/burned out air compressor (from the shocks being shot). After you replace the shocks (and after you recouped from the heart attack you had when you shelled out $500+ for each shock), replace the ALC module/compressor (it's all one unit), and test it - it should kick on when you rotate the lever up again.
Figure about $350 for the ALC module from your dealer, and make sure the part numbers match! Your truck came with an upgraded ALC module from the 2001-2004 module, which were prone to water damage.