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1985 chevy m/c 305 oil only trickles at the rockers.

I had replaced complete top head gaskets,lifters,pushrods,rockers.Any help appreciated.

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  • Kelley Duncan May 11, 2010

    need more information



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From your very brief description, oil only trickles? do you mean No oil pressure? slow oil circulation? or takes forever to drain?
Just a thought have you replaced the correct head gaskets and are they fitted the right way? As if not the oil and water channels may be blocked?
Is the oil pump o.k.?
Hope this helps!
Paul 'W'

Posted on Jan 07, 2009


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How can I get rid of valve tapping?

Hi Complete Auto:
- I would first check to make sure that I had the correct amount of oil in the engine. Basic, but essential.
- The valve tapping will be happening due to too much clearance between the rocker arm and the valve. Follow that back and there will be slack between the rocker arm and pushrod, and then back to the lifter.
- The lifters have an integral hydraulic action that pumps oil through the hollow pushrod to the rocker arm assembly.
- If the lifter "pumping" has failed due to contamination or some other reason, it will need to be replaced.
- If there is too much slack and the rocker is adjustable, slack off the lock nut and turn the adjustment until the tapping stops. Then tighten the lock nut and re-install the rocker/valve cover.
Hope this helps.

Apr 08, 2016 | 2001 Toyota Sequoia

2 Answers

What's causing valve tapping?

Some tapping is normal with age and mileage. Wear on the cam and lifters and followers causes it.

Apr 08, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What does base circle area mean when doing a valve job ?

Base circle is the camshaft lower diameter where the lifter rides before the lobe starts to come into play.
The Lost Art of Valve Adjustment
Your second question depends entirely on the engine in question.
On a pushrod V8 the oil usually is metered by the valve lifters and goes to the rockers through hollow pushrods; a few drops of oil are released by the lifters during each valve stroke. Until full oil pressure and warm oil are in all of the oil passages, the oil to the rockers will be less than that of a warm running engine. The rockers really don't need huge quantities of oil, it is a lot harder to get oil to the valve stems.
You may want to make sure you have good oil pressure and the valves are properly adjusted [even on a hydraulic lifter system there are limits to how much the lifters will self adjust].

If you have an overhead cam engine, you will need lots of oil on the lifters and cams.

Feb 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1985 cj7 jeep 258 engine is noisy on idle. rattles constantly , rebuilt engine twice and prob won't go away.

This is kind of hard to judge without hearing it. Lets say the noise is the pellets in the Catalytic converter that some types of automakers used, with low flow at idle, the loose pellets can bounce around until the flow increases and pins them to the insides of the Catalytics.

However, if you rebuilt the motor you would know some mechanical stuff. I can move on to more possibilities.

Oil pressure starvation can make the pushrods rattle in the rocker arms. The engine oil pressure will cushion the critical area between the rocker arm and the pushrod seat.

On the rebuilds, have you worked on the heads? Like valve spring tension and pushrod clearance? I have had engines that would idle perfect until accelerated and return to idle clanging and missing. The valve springs were shot. Then I have had some GM motors that had hydraulic lifters yet the pushrods were different lengths and that is how the pushrod clearance was made; by changing individual pushrods to get the correct clearance.

This is something that can occur when the valve seats are cut. The valve stem can ride up into the head slightly when the seats are cut.

Now you may have replaced the camshaft or the lifters or not. But it is recommended that each lifter is paired with a camshaft lobe. If you mixed the lifters into different positions, you may have distortions that are resulting in noisy clearance problems. For that matter, camshaft bearings may be loose.

The Jeep and American Motors cars used a 232 CID engine too. Can't say what components were different but you may have mixed parts.

Now some models used a Rattle or knock sensor, and in the old days, you could get a rattle from weak distributor springs in the breaker plate. The mechanical advance would throw out too fast.

I am curious. Would like to know what you found.

Oct 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

On a 1985 f150 where would a camshaft sensor be

Check this procedure... REMOVALand& INSTALLATION

  1. Remove the grille, radiator, and timing cover.
  2. Remove the distributor, fuel pump, oil pan and oil pump.
  3. Align the timing marks. Unbolt the camshaft thrust plate, working through the holes in the camshaft gear.
  4. Loosen the rocker arms, remove the pushrods, take off the side cover and remove the valve lifters with a magnet.
  5. Remove the camshaft very carefully to prevent nicking the bearings.
  6. Oil the camshaft bearing journals and use Lubriplate or something similar on the lobes. Install the camshaft, gear, and thrust plate, aligning the gear marks. Tighten down the thrust plate. Make sure that the camshaft end-play is not excessive.
  7. The last item to be replaced is the distributor. The rotor should be at the firing position for no. 1 cylinder, with the timing gear marks aligned

V6 and V8 Including Diesel
Ford recommends removing the diesel engine for camshaft removal.
  1. Remove the intake manifold and valley pan, if so equipped.
  2. Remove the rocker covers, and either remove the rocker arm shafts or loosen the rockers on their pivots and remove the pushrods. The pushrods must be reinstalled in their original positions.
  3. Remove the valve lifters in sequence with a magnet. They must be replaced in their original positions.
  4. Remove the timing chain/gear cover and timing chain (timing gear on V8 diesel) and sprockets.
  5. In addition to the radiator and air conditioning condenser, if so equipped, it may be necessary to remove the front grille assembly and the hood lock assembly to gain the necessary clearance to slide the camshaft out of the front of the engine. On the V6-3.8L, remove the camshaft thrust button and spring. Remove the camshaft thrust plate attaching screws and carefully slide the camshaft out of its bearing bores. Use extra caution not to scratch the camshaft lobes.
Camshaft removal tools, Ford part no. T65L-6250-A and adaptor 14-0314 are needed to remove the diesel camshaft.
  1. Coat the camshaft with engine oil liberally before installing it. Slide the camshaft into the engine very carefully so as not to scratch the bearing bores with the camshaft lobes. Install the camshaft thrust plate and tighten the attaching screws to 9 - 12 ft. lbs. Measure the camshaft end-play. If the end-play is more than 0.009 inch; (0.228mm), replace the thrust plate. Assemble the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day

Dec 19, 2011 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer

I need the torque specs for my rocker arm and push rods i cant find them any were on the internet


Apr 16, 2011 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Is there a diagram for the cylinder heads of a 1991 5.7 liter engine, especially the valve components? Thank you, Dan

Hydraulic Lifters REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4.8L Engines
  1. Remove the rocker cover.
  2. Remove the engine side cover.
  3. Back off the rocker arm adjusting nuts and remove the pushrods. Keep them in order for installation.
  4. Reaching through the side cover opening, lift out the hydraulic lifters. If your are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available form most auto parts stores.
  5. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set. To install:
  6. Install and coat each lifter with engine oil supplement.
  7. Install the remaining components by reversing the removal procedure.
  8. Once installation is complete, adjust the valves as described in the valve lash procedure. Fig. 1: Stuck lifters must be freed using a slide hammer type lifter removal tool tccs3813.jpg
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L And 7.4L Engines
  1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
  2. Remove the intake manifold.
  3. Back off the rocker arm adjusting nuts and remove the pushrods. Keep them in order for installation.
  4. Remove the lifter retainer bolts, retainer and restrictor.
  5. Remove the lifters. If your are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available from most auto parts stores.
  6. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set.
  7. Coat each lifter with engine oil supplement prior to installation. Tighten the retainer bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm). Adjust the valves as described in the valve lash procedure.
6.2L And 6.5L Diesel Engines Fig. 2: Diesel engine valve lifter 84903155.gif
  1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
  2. Remove the rocker arm shaft, rocker arms and pushrods. Keep all parts in order and properly identified for installation.
  3. Remove the clamps and lifter guide plates.
  4. Remove the lifters by reaching through the access holes in the cylinder head with a magnetic lifter tool. If you are going to re-use the lifters, remove them one at a time and mark each one for installation. They must be re-installed in the same locations. If a lifter is stuck, it can be removed with a grasping-type lifter tool, available form most auto parts stores. To install:
  5. Inspect each lifter thoroughly. If any of them shows any signs of wear, heat bluing or damage, replace the whole set. NOTE: Some engines will have both standard and 0.010 in. (.0039mm) oversize lifters. The oversized lifters will have "10'' etched into the side. The block will be stamped "OS'' on the cast pad next to the lifter bore. and on the top rail of the crankcase above the lifter bore. WARNING
    New lifters must be primed before installation. Damage to the lifters and engine will result if new lifters are installed dry!
  6. Prime new lifters by immersing them in clean kerosene, engine oil or diesel fuel and working the lifter plunger while the unit is submerged.
  7. Prior to installation, coat the lifter roller with engine oil supplement. Re-used lifters must be installed in their original positions!
  8. Install the lifters.
  9. Install the guide plates and clamps. Tighten the clamp bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  10. After all the clamps are installed, turn the crankshaft by hand, 2 full turns (720°) to ensure free movement of the lifters in the guide plates. If the crankshaft won't turn, one or more lifters may be jamming in the guide plates.
  11. The remainder of assembly the reverse of disassembly.
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Aug 17, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Need instructions on how to change the lifters in my 1998 Chevy S10 2.2L

Please don't forget to rate!!!!

2.2L Engine When installing new lifters, a pre-lube should always be applied to the lifter body. It is also a good idea to prime hydraulic lifters by submerging them in clean engine oil and depressing the plunger using an old pushrod. This allows the internal components of the hydraulic lifter to coat with oil before initial operation in the engine. All lifters should be replaced when a new camshaft is installed.
If any valve train components (lifters, pushrods, rocker arms) are to be reused, they must be tagged or arranged during removal to assure installation in their original locations.
  1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  2. Remove the cylinder head assembly from the engine.
  3. Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets, then remove the brackets.
  4. Remove the hydraulic roller lifters from the bores.
  5. Inspect the lifter and lifter bore for wear and scuffing. Examine the roller for freedom of movement and/or flat spots on the roller surface.

Remove the bolts retaining the lifter anti-rotation brackets ...

... then remove the anti-rotation brackets

The lifters are located in bores in the engine block

Use a lifter removal tool to remove the lifters from the bore

To install:
If installing a new lifter, coat the lifter body with a suitable camshaft pre-lube
  1. Install each hydraulic lifter to its bore being careful to align the flat sides (top) of the lifters with the flat sides of the anti-rotation brackets. When properly installed the flat sides of each lifter are aligned parallel to the anti-rotation bracket. The roller at the bottom of the lifter is parallel to the camshaft lobe.
Make sure to properly align and install each lifter as improper installation of the lifters or brackets could result in engine damage.
  1. Install the anti-rotation bracket retaining bolts and tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the cylinder head.
  3. Install the rocker arm cover.

Removing the hydraulic roller lifter from the 2.2L engine

Feb 06, 2010 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Part requirments for Cam and lifters

Yes you will need the following:

Assembly lube
Water pump gasket
Intake gasket
Timing cover gasket

Lifter removal tool
Puller for harmonic balancer
Cam installation tool/removal tool

I also would recommend replacing the timing chain and timing gears since you are going to have to take the timing chain off anyhow.

You will also need the associated tools to do the job, plenty off rachets, box wrenches and such.

If you are doing mechanical lifters you will also a feeler gauge to measure the valve clearance and make adjustments.

I cant think of anything else off the top of my head.

If you are doing a cam with more lift then I would recommend replacing your valve springs as well, it is easy and it will assure you do not incur valve float. You will have to take the rockers off when you install the new lifters because you have to remove the pushrods. I also recommend you replace the pushrods while you are at it, they are cheap. You will need a valve spring compressor and new valve springs and locks, they are pretty cheap.

Oct 29, 2009 | 1983 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Hi.have jumped pushrod.are cam followers hydraulic and can they be removed from top with magnet or cylinder head have to come off.regards lenny .2.5 td

I don't see the answer I posted so here's the short version: the head does not have to come off. There is a better tool available to remove lifters it is an expandable "hook" that grips the inside lip of the lifter and has a small slide hammer on it so if lifter sticks in bore you can still get it out. Any dishing on business end of lifter indicates corresponding cam wear. If dished, cam needs replacement. also check pivot point on rocker and ends of pushrod for wear.
good luck

Mar 18, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

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