Question about 1993 Nissan Maxima

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Very Rough Idle and sometimes cuts off while idling

Relaced fuel filter, cap, rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires. 3.0 engine...Car runs good while travelling down the road but idles very rough and will sometimes cut off now. Can smell gas sometimes but can't find any leaks. No check engine light comes on.

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  • Adam Churchin Jan 10, 2009

    I have the almost the same damn problem. It started sputtering when in gear at a light. Upon accelerating, the sputtering continues. Its never shut off on me. Replaced the fuel filter, had a fuel injector cleaning (Wal Mart $20) and its still there. I also smell gas, cant see any. Driving 150 miles a week and averaging 23 miles a gallon.

  • Anonymous Feb 10, 2009

    I have the exact same problem. Taking it into dealership for an ESTIMATE only to fix.

  • daniel May 08, 2013

    mine dies but starts back up dont smell gas just exhast

  • daniel May 08, 2013

    sometimes it idles hi

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    1998 2.5 JEEP WRANGLER. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF. CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES, ALSO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND BUTTON. IT HAS MORE POWER NOW BUT WHEN IDLEING IT'S A LITTLE SHAKY AND LIGHT IS BACK ON. DIAGNOSTIC TEST SAID FUEL SENSOR. HOW DO I STOP THE ROUGH IDLE AND WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH THE FUEL SENSOR?? HELP!!

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    rough idle ok driving dist. plugs wires new couple months ago coil to . can air meter be bypassed? or rebuilt

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    Bogs on acceleration sometimes. Rough idle sometimes. Car dies sometimes. Changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, timing belt.

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sounds like bad Idle Air control valve Not Cheap


Very Rough Idle and sometimes cuts off while idlin - wl2ac485003.jpg

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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My 94 Toyota Camry 4 cyl is running really rough and stalling out once the engine warms up


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1991 mercedes 420sel cuts out intermittently


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IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS


Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

Jan 20, 2010 | 1989 Ford Escort

2 Answers

Hi, I have a 2006 Altima with 31,500 miles. Recently, the engine start shaking when car is Idle but I still feel the shake when driving or at red lights. My second problem is a weird loud (humming) noise...


You don't need to change the spark plugs since it has only 31.5 K. The plugs should last 60K. There is a an adjustment at the gas cable end at engine to increase the idle a little bit. You can increase rpm at idle to 600 RPM. Since your RPM at idle is low that why it is shaking at idle, red lights. Let me know it it is shaking at high speed ( 2500 RPM)

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1 Answer

Engine idle? fuel filter or injectors?


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