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Leaks on the rear differentual can usually occur at 3 places the axle housing,or at the axel shaft oil seals.If it were to be the axel housing gasket it would be visible around the housing cover.Also inspect the axel housing slip yoke seal this will also be visible.The next seals you want to check would be the axel shaft seals.In order to get to these seals you will have pull the tires and drums.Once you have them off take a flashlight and look behind the axel end for any oil leaking.Those would be the only places it would leak oil.
you fill it form the frt cover, there a fill bolt hole remove and fill until it runs out, it will be level with the bottom of the hole ,heres a picture to show you,this shows the cover in the back but look in the front ,this picture is reversed. hope the helps, ps uses gear oil 80w/90w
for 4X4 there are two drive shafts one to the front axel and one to the rear they are bolted to the axels with four bolts and four nuts undo those and gently wiggle the driveshaft from the transfer case. make sure it is in park it makes it easier...
for 2 wheel drive same thing for the rear just wiggle it from the transmission there is no transfer case. just as a warning some gear oil or tranny fluid might leak if the car isnt level
You didn't state the year, but you need to remove the plug in the housing, and fill until it just begins to flow out the bottom of the fill plug hole (make sure vehicle is level while adding). You will need to check what weight gear oil you need, usually 80 to 90 weight, parts store can tell you. You will need to cut the top off the bottle and squeeze it to fill . The last 1/2 of the bottle is difficult to get in, so buy an extra quart over capacity to top it off, you'll have extra for later if needed.
vacumn pod on the front axel is stuck on. Jack up the front wheels spin both tires at the same time and see if the front drive shaft turns. If it does the 4x4 on the axel is engaged. The front drive shaft on these should not turn when vacumn pod is disengaged. YJ's have a split axel on the right side inner axel shaft.
Loosen differential cover and let oil drain. Remove cover, remove E clip lock from axel. Pull axel out. Remove bearing seal. Install new seal and reinstall axel. Reinstall E clip lock and new cover gasket. Fill with 75-90wt gear oil. Now I know that sound pretty straight forward. But there are some things to remember. The E clip lock can be difficult to remove sometimes. The most important thing is the seal, you will need to make sure it gets seated correctly and not torn when installing axel
Loosen differential cover and let oil drain. Remove cover, remove U lock from axel. Pull axel out. Remove bearing seal then bearing. Install new bearing, seal and reinstall axel. Reinstall U lock and new cover gasket. Fill with 75-90wt gear oil. Now I know that sound pretty straight forward. But there are some things to remember. The U lock can be difficult to remove sometimes. The most important thing is the seal, you will need to make sure it gets seated correctly and not torn when installing axel.
take the wheel off , unbolt caliper and sling it out of the way with a bungi cord, take off the rotor, then you have too take the pumpkin cover off the axel diff in the front (drain fluid first) easy way to do that take out bottom and side bolts out then leave top 1 or 2 in but finger loose. pry cover off with a sturdy scrapper from side allowing fluid to leak out from bottom of cover. when fluid is done comeing out then take off cover. to take the axel out to replace the seal you have to push the axel inwards to remove the C- CLIP on the end of the axel shaft that slides into the inside of the pinion gear (use a extending magnet) keeps gear oil on your hands and from dropping it into the pumpkin housing. then all you have to do is slide the axel shaft out. then replace the seal .