Question about 2001 Ford Escort ZX2

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Taking spindle nut off 01 escort - 2001 Ford Escort ZX2

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  • Ford Master
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You mean the big axle nut? You need a stout 1/2 inch breaker bar and the proper sized deep well socket on the nut. Loosen the nut while the car is still on the ground, you may even need a cheater bar on the breaker bar-the axle nuts are torqued down mighty tight-about 200 foot pounds. Once you break it loose, then raise the car on jackstands, remove the nut and washer, and push the axle back from the spindle. If the axle shaft is stubborn and won't move yet, put a piece of wood on the end of the shaft and rap it pretty hard with a mallet or hammer.to break it free from its tight fit inside the spindle or knuckle.

Posted on Nov 09, 2012

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Torque settings for rear wheel bearing, 1998 Escort 1.8 TDI Ghia


If you mean the rear spindle castle nut, tighten until wheel will not turn, then back off until it spins freely. The rear wheel hub retainer is 188-254 ft lbs or 255-345 Nm.

Feb 28, 2011 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Replace c-v joint


  • Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Using the ½-inch air gun, remove the wheels. Use the wire cutters to remove the cotter pin in the lower ball joint.

  • Unscrew and remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket. The bolts run through the caliper from the engine side. Remove the caliper, but do not let it hang by its hose.

  • Use a wrench to take the nut off of the lower ball joint. Insert the ball joint removal tool in between the spindle and the lower control arm. Hit the tool with the hammer until the ball joint comes loose.

  • Use the ½-inch air gun and the proper socket to remove the large nut on the end of the CV axle. This is the one in the center of the rotor. Push the axle in toward the engine slightly, just to make sure it is loose. If it is not loose, tap it with a hammer.

  • Use the ½ inch air gun and an 18mm socket to remove the two large bolts in the base of the strut where it is attached to the spindle. Pull the spindle from the strut to separate the two.

  • Grab the rotor and lift the lower ball joint out of the spindle. Pull the CV joint out of the spindle and then place the lower ball joint on the spindle back into the lower control arm to hold it there.

  • Insert the pry bar between the inner CV joint and the transmission. Use a fast yank on the pry bar to pry the CV joint from the transmission.

  • Insert the new CV joint into the transmission as far as it will go by hand. The CV joint has a snap ring on the end that is going in the transmission. It gives a little resistance to going in. Use both hands and pull the outer end out about 1 inch and then slam it in toward the engine. This quick movement will get the CV joint to seat in the transmission. Check to make sure that the CV joint is all the way in before proceeding--look at the distance between the CV joint and the transmission.

  • Insert the outer end of the CV shaft into the spindle and rotate the rotor slightly to get the splines to line up. Push it in until the tip of the axle begins to come out the outside of the spindle enough to get the large nut on. Put the large nut on a couple of turns. Put the nut back on the lower ball joint but do not tighten it yet.

  • 0

    Push the spindle back into the lower mounting point on the strut and insert the two large bolts and nuts. Use the ½-inch air gun to tighten securely. Use a wrench to tighten the nut on the lower ball joint. Insert the cotter pin below the nut for safety.

  • 11

    Tighten down the large axle nut securely with the ½-inch air gun. Put the brake caliper back on and insert the two bolts through the caliper and tighten. Replace the wheels and the lug n

  • Sep 15, 2010 | 1994 Ford Escort

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    How to replace rear wheel bearings


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    Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear 1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
    REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).

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    1 Answer

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    does it make noise? if so, dont waste you rtime, replace the complete axle. take wheel off, take lower ball joint loose, take off big nut in middle of wheel hub, now push axle through while lifting the spindle up, notwthe axle will come out of hub, now you will need to pry the other end out to get it to come loose, there is a small clip holding it in. you should really have a person experienced do this, it should take maybe .5 -1.0 hr

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    The hub nut is fused to the spindle. It won't move.


    you have to do what happened in the first plave, get a blow torch and heat it up and then remove it

    Sep 14, 2009 | 2002 Mazda Miata

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    Ihow do you replace rear struts on a 1999 ford


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    1 Answer

    I am trying to replace passanger axl I have the strut and tie rod bolt out what is next


    Have you removed the spindle nut, you should have loosened the spindle hub nut before you jacked the car up and removed the tire. If you haven't done this you'll have to re-install the strut and the tie rod, then put the tire back on, lower the car, then take a large socket that fits the spindle nut and use a long breaker bar to just slightly loosen the spindle nut, (it's torqued to over 200 ft pounds) then jack the car back up and remove the tire, loosen the spindle nut about halfway, then take a rubber mallet and strike the spindle nut firmly to loosen the axle from the hub, then use a ball joint remover to separate the steering knuckle from the hub ***'y. You might be able to then completely remove the spindle nut and push the axle out from the hub, but if you can't get enough clearance to separate the axle from the hub, then remove the strut ***'y to get more clearance. After removing the axle from the hub you'll then need to take a pry bar or a good cold chisel and put it up into and behind the inner CV joint where it goes into the transmission and pry the inner CV joint out from the transmission( you may have to give it a sharp rap with a Ball peen Hammer to get it to slide out of the transmission. The axle ***'y should be in your hands now. A final note of caution, be sure when you jack the car up that you support it firmly with jack stands for safety and do this work on a nice level spot with the wheels firmly chocked to prevent any shifting of the car, you wouldn't want it fall on you while you are under it. Be careful and good luck, I've done this many times and have always been successful in replacing my cv axles when necessary.

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