Question about 1991 Ford Escort
Before even trying a new thermostat, try blocking air flow past the radiator and engine area with some cardboard in front of the radiator. If your temp. gauge shows below half all the time, try a hotter rated thermostat, one that stays closed just a bit longer. Say your t-stat is rated at 190 degrees, get one that is rated at 193 degrees- do small raises to avoid overheating-and in the summer, you may want to go back to the lower rated t-stat.. A parts store or Ford dealer could help you pick an optional thermostat.
To replace, drain enough coolant from the radiator so the level in the engine is below the thermostat housing. Take off the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. remove retaining bolts or nuts from the housing, any other obstructions, and pull the housing off, replace thermostat, clean the gasket mating area on the housing and the engine block, use a new gasket and fit all back together. Careful not to overtighten the t-stat housing bolts: the torque specs would be small-about 15-20 foot pounds of torque-just snug them down good-you can always go back and re-tighten a little if you see a leak. So, all back together, refill coolant and overflow tank, run engine with radiator cap off till engine is hot, and thermostat opens-this will helpyou bleed air out of the system. When thermostat opens, coolant level should drop a little. Shut off the engine, top up radiator and overflow tank as necessary, and replace radiator cap. Check for leaks.
Posted on Nov 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 F250 super duty v10
check the vaccum hoses on the passenger side under hood. I think that there are two hoses but it might be three. they get brittle and leak. but they move a little valve that you can move yourself just to see if heat works then. it is inline with the heater hoses I think. Bear with me though because it has been about 3-4 years ago when I figured this one out. it is definately a vaccum problem. there is also a set of vaccum hoses under passenger side of dash, several colors in it. might want to look there because sometimes kicked by peoples feet but money is on the ones inline with heater core. just move linkage and see if it gets hot air. Hope I helped and didnt confuse.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
SOURCE: 1997 F150 heater problem
your problem is caused by the air temperature control blend door actuator motor being defective, the little motor moves the door that gives either hot air or cold air or a blend of the 2.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
the dommed part of the T-stat goes up, it won't go in backwards as memory serves me, what u almost certainly have going on here is the Air temperature control electric bend door actuator s defective, and the door is stuck in the cold air position in the heating/ac duct, to replace this the dash must be removed from the car..
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
You just might have an air lock. Try bleeding the system from the heater hose at the firewall. Losen one hose a little, and at operating temp. open slightly to let air out. You will lose some coolant, but just refill the rad. Now, both hoses should get hot.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
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