- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check the fuses in the fuse panel. make sure the interior light isn`t burnt out and needs replacing. also some light switches(for the headlight) have a switch built within it that if its turned too far one way it will shut of the interior light function. if this not the problem then check for power and ground at the interior light socket as there could be damaged wire. if the fuses are good and the power windows don`t work then you will have to check the window switch for power and grounds as the other windows are feed through the drivers switch. if you have power and grounds then you may need to replace the switch. if you have no power or grounds then you will have to check for a broken wire were the wires go from the door to the body of the car as they have a problem with breaking. there is also a power window relay in the relay box.
You need to see a wiring diagram to see how the ignition switch allows or sends power to that 30 amp fuse. The switch may turn on a relay (maybe the ignition relay) that sends power to the fuse panel. Or the run wire out of the switch may itself turn power on at the fuses. You may have a loose connection behind the fuse panel. Get a test light, pull the fuse, and check for power at the fuse terminals, with key on. One terminal for the fuse should have power. If not, power is lost between the ignition switch and that fuse. If it does have power, and windows still don't work, check the wire from fuse panel to the master switch-loose or poor connections, maybe a partially broken wire. If it looks good, check the ground wire for the windows. The ground wire originates at the master switch and will go back into the cabin to a nearby ground, possibly behind the left kick panel. If still no help, someone may need a volt- ohmmeter to start checking continuity of wires, voltage drops, etc.
Output from the accessory delay relay control circuit in the instrument cluster closes the accessory delay relay in the central junction box (CJB) and sends power through 30A fuse 401 to the master window adjust switch
There is no common fuse for both power windows and A/C. A/C operations are handled by the electronic automatic temperature control (EATC) module. At the CJB, check 30A fuse 116 which controls the front blower motor and 10A fuse 13 which closes the relay. Also check 7.5A fuse 5 which supplies power to the EATC module.
At the central junction box (CJB), check 10A fuse 11 which applies power to the contact arm of the A/C clutch relay and 15A fuse 32 which applies power to the relay coil so the PCM can close the contact. The CJB also contains 10A fuse 14 which applies power to the A/C high pressure switch. If all fuse check OK, your A/C problem is somewhere else
In the driver side junction box, check the 30A POWER fuse. Power is applied to an integration relay and closes the power relay to apply 12V to the power window master switch. If you have power at the master switch but the windows and locks don't work you may have a bad switch or the motors may be bad. There's not much else that can go wrong
Turn the ignition on but don't
start the engine. Operate the windows from the master control switch. If
none of the windows work, check the main fuse or breaker for the whole
power window circuit. If only one of the windows is inoperative, go to
Check the main circuit relay
using a test light. If voltage is coming out of the relay, there is an
open or short at the wire feeding power to the other switches. If no
voltage is coming out of the relay, use the test light to make sure
voltage is reaching the relay. If voltage is reaching the relay, replace
it. If there is no voltage reaching the relay, there is an open or
short at the wire between the relay and the main fuse.
Check the circuit fuse or
breaker at the inoperative window. If the fuse or breaker is okay, go to
the next step. If you can hear a humming sound as you press the switch
but the window does not operate, either the motor is bad or its gearbox
may have broken teeth. Go to Step 7.
Turn the ignition on but don't
start the engine. Using a multimeter, check the master control lockout
switch for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the lockout
switch. With some vehiclemodels, problems at the lockout switch can cause both rear windows to fail.
Try the switch at the
inoperative window and check for continuity using a voltmeter. If there
is no continuity, replace the switch.
Check for voltage at the switch
using a test light. If voltage is not reaching the switch, there is an
open or short between the incoming wire and the fuse or breaker for that
circuit power window.
Take off the trim panel from the
inoperative window. Check for voltage at the motor with a test light
while pressing the switch. If there is no voltage, there is a short or
open at the wire between the switch and the motor. If the circuit is
equipped with a relay, test for voltage reaching and coming out the
relay. Make sure the relay is working properly. If voltage is reaching
the motor, go to the next step.
Detach the window from the
regulator and inspect the regulator mechanism by moving the window up
and down by hand. Make sure nothing restrains the mechanism. Also,
inspect the motor gearbox. Replace any parts as necessary.
Dear kaydynandtri, If you have the owner's manual find the power window relay. They are usually located in the fuse box. Check to see if there is another relay that matches that one and switch places with them. If the windows work or the accessory the relay came from does not the relay is bad. If this does not work I would replace the driver's door power window switch. I have also seen the wire break on older cars where it goes into front of driver's door.
It is the power window relay for feeding power to all the windows except the drivers. If the drivers works the other three don't it is time to replace the power window relay.
Another quick test is to see at each window if the switch works then try it at the driver master switches for each window. If you notice a difference then it is either the power window relay or the master switch.
You can post further feedback based on what you find so I can pinpoint exactly. If all windows are not working then it is the 30a power fuse