Temperature gage in truck doesn't work neither does gas gage
1993 ford ranger i replaced both sensors an a new heater core and the gage in the truck still doesn't work my gas gage doesn't work either but not that concerned about the gas i carry a gas can
Fuel Gage and temperature gage cluster on my 1997 ford ranger do not work. When I start the vehicle I am getting a slight jump of the needle but when the vehicle runs it just pulls the needle to the empty location even when the tank is FULL. I noticed the battery drained completely and I could not start the vehicle , BUT with the low batterty the fuel gage and the temp gage went up as soon as I turned the key to the start position (without the clutch switch ) I hear the pump coming up. there is pressure, I have taken all grounds off and reinstalled them, removed the instrument cluster, the gage assembly, How can I reliably test the PCB for the anti-slosh module? There is 12 volts to the antislosh module, Anyone out there with the voltages to the red/white wires to the connector? The 12 volts is prettuy much the main voltage to the engine light that is shared with the anti -slosh module.
As the battery voltage was low the gage moved... when I tried starting the engine... Running out of money , no job and looking to pay the same amount for a pump as for the anti slosh board... about 100.00 Fuel Gage and temperature gage cluster on my 1997 ford ranger do not work. When I start the vehicle I am getting a slight jump of the needle but when the vehicle runs it just pulls the needle to the empty location even when the tank is FULL. I noticed the battery drained completely and I could not start the vehicle , BUT with the low batterty the fuel gage and the temp gage went up as soon as I turned the key to the start position (without the clutch switch ) I hear the pump coming up. there is pressure, I have taken all grounds off and reinstalled them, removed the instrument cluster, the gage assembly, How can I reliably test the PCB for the anti-slosh module? There is 12 volts to the antislosh module, Anyone out there with the voltages to the red/white wires to the connector? The 12 volts is prettuy much the main voltage to the engine light that is shared with the anti -slosh module.
As the battery voltage was low the gage moved... when I tried starting the engine... Running out of money , no job and looking to pay the same amount for a pump as for the anti slosh board... about 100.00
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
My info shows two. One is sender for gage on the dash. the other, ect, tells the computer, the engine temp. The sender for the temp gage has a one wire connector, red/white tracer. The ect is a two wire connector, gray--gray with red tracer. What kind of problem are you having?
I don't know if your the person I was talking to, but, you click on the comment link to reply.
Are the heater core hoses hot? If so then you will need to replace the air temperature control blend door and its electric actuator. If this is the problem you can speed the repair time (10 hours) by using a kit called a Heaterbeater. You can buy the kits on eBay.
check the cooling system to make sure the system is full.next check the temperature of the heater hoses when the car is at operating temperature.they should be the same temp,if one is not as hot as the other then the heater core is plugged and will need to be replaced.you can try to run clr through the heater core to see if it will unplug the heater.the other thing is the temp door will have to be checked to make sure its moving through out its full travel by moving the temp knob/lever and looking at the door arm to see it travel full range.this is located under the dash on the passenger side on the duct work.
FLUSH RADIATOR, HEATER CORE AND ENGINE BLOCK.ADD 50 / 50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER ALSO REPLACE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE STILL STAY HIGH THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR COULD BE FAULTY.
Check if the blend door is working, do you hear any operation or change when temperature setting is changed? If not, possible blend door problem. Or do it is that you have heat at the floor and not on your face, it could be a mode door problem. If neitherr, then check thermostat? Hold hoses to and from, should be firm. Heater core itself can be plugged on these models. You can check the temperature of the inlet and outlet hoses at the firewall with an infared temperature gun. They should be equal. If drastic difference, core is plugged. Backflush the heater core if this is the issue. If improves and returns, new heater core will be required.
From Haynes Repair Manual #36071, Ford Ranger Pickups 1993 - 2005: (1)Disarm the airbag system; (2)allow the cooling system to completely cool down; (3)using a thick cloth for protection, turn the radiator filler cap to the first stop; (4)step back and let the pressure release; (5)once the pressure has been released, completely drain the cooling system; (6) working within the engine compartment, loosen the ****,ps on the heater hoses at the engine compartment side of the firewall, twist the hoses and carefully sepseparate them from the heater core tubes; (7)plug or cap the heater core tubes to prevent coolant from spilling into the passenger compartment when the heater core is removed; (8)place a plastic sheet on the floor of the vehicle to prevent stains if the coolant spills; (9)remove the instrument panel; (10)remove the PCM heat sink and ground strap; (11)remove the heater plenum chamber; (12)separate the heater core from the heater plenum chamber; (13)installation is the reverse of the removal with the following additions; (a)fill the cooling system; (b)run the engine, check for leaks and test the heater.
temp gage does not work 92 chev blazer. sensor? else?
Fuel Gage and temperature gage cluster on my 1997 ford ranger do not work. When I start the vehicle I am getting a slight jump of the needle but when the vehicle runs it just pulls the needle to the empty location even when the tank is FULL. I noticed the battery drained completely and I could not start the vehicle , BUT with the low batterty the fuel gage and the temp gage went up as soon as I turned the key to the start position (without the clutch switch ) I hear the pump coming up. there is pressure, I have taken all grounds off and reinstalled them, removed the instrument cluster, the gage assembly, How can I reliably test the PCB for the anti-slosh module? There is 12 volts to the antislosh module, Anyone out there with the voltages to the red/white wires to the connector? The 12 volts is prettuy much the main voltage to the engine light that is shared with the anti -slosh module.
As the battery voltage was low the gage moved... when I tried starting the engine... Running out of money , no job and looking to pay the same amount for a pump as for the anti slosh board... about 100.00
×