Question about 2008 Acura Mdx
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: leaking Acura 2004 MDX
to find this remove the wipers and and take all those pannel in that area exposing the bottom of the wind shield and have some poor water from to while you look and see where the water is coming in the vehicl''sometime is just a leak in the wind sealing'''hope this help''
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
you can either remove driver's side halfshaft or battery tray and alternator to remove the starter. i chose the halfshaft, since it gave a little more room to unbolt the starter. no need to drain transaxle when removing driver's side halfshaft. unbolt balljoint and tierod end from knuckle. i also removed the pinch bold that attaches the strut to the knuckle to allow more movement to remove the axle. axle nut is 36mm. use a large screwdriver or small prybar to gently pry the halfshaft from the transaxle, be careful not to damage the seal. upper bolt on the starter is really tough to get access to...
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
You may have a bad strut mount, which mounts on top of the strut. Also check the stabilizer links and any rubber bushing.
Posted on May 15, 2010
You shouldn't have to remove the bumper. Feel behind the light on the engine side and you should find a collar assembly with wires running into it. If you twist that collar off and then pull back toward the rear of the vehicle, pull the collar back not the wires, the light bulb should come out of the light assembly. From there it is just a matter of unplugging the old bulb and putting the new one back in them putting everything back. The whole job should take about 15 minutes.
Posted on Nov 11, 2010
the center console will prob. have to be removed , there are hiden screws, be patiant and thuroly look before just ripping out cup holder.
Posted on Feb 11, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).
Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.
Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.
With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle. Next, remove your shifter knob. Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy. Unbolt the center stack trim plate. Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc. On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
On to the dash: Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end. On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame. Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts. On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim. Remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column. Remove the instrument cluster. Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal. While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame. Time to move the center stack stuff. You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side. If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector. On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
Give it a try... Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.
Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car. Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out. Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.
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