Question about 2008 Acura Mdx

1 Answer

After removing the trim and unbolting the 4 bolts,2 on top and 2 on the side the headlamp is free but it will not slide out. Looking at the new assembly it appears larger than the opening so maybe the bumper cover needs to be pulled?

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Master:

    An expert who has achieved Level 3.

  • Master
  • 689 Answers

Disconect the wireing harness then it might come out,

Posted on Nov 09, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

rteemon
  • 578 Answers

SOURCE: leaking Acura 2004 MDX

to find this remove the wipers and and take all those pannel in that area exposing the bottom of the wind shield and have some poor water from to while you look and see where the water is coming in the vehicl''sometime is just a leak in the wind sealing'''hope this help''

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: Clearance to remove 93 Acura Legend starter

you can either remove driver's side halfshaft or battery tray and alternator to remove the starter. i chose the halfshaft, since it gave a little more room to unbolt the starter. no need to drain transaxle when removing driver's side halfshaft. unbolt balljoint and tierod end from knuckle. i also removed the pinch bold that attaches the strut to the knuckle to allow more movement to remove the axle. axle nut is 36mm. use a large screwdriver or small prybar to gently pry the halfshaft from the transaxle, be careful not to damage the seal. upper bolt on the starter is really tough to get access to...

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

drsinister69
  • 2317 Answers

SOURCE: Sometimes when I hit a bump or rough spot in the

You may have a bad strut mount, which mounts on top of the strut. Also check the stabilizer links and any rubber bushing.

Posted on May 15, 2010

  • 4044 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Acura TL - Replacing driver side headlight.

You shouldn't have to remove the bumper. Feel behind the light on the engine side and you should find a collar assembly with wires running into it. If you twist that collar off and then pull back toward the rear of the vehicle, pull the collar back not the wires, the light bulb should come out of the light assembly. From there it is just a matter of unplugging the old bulb and putting the new one back in them putting everything back. The whole job should take about 15 minutes.

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

adrakewilson
  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: I have an '08 TL with a very annoying object

the center console will prob. have to be removed , there are hiden screws, be patiant and thuroly look before just ripping out cup holder.

Posted on Feb 11, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Hi. i am trying to find blueprint for change the radiator heating on Audi A4 1995 Thank you.


How to install a heating core in a 1996 Audi A4
You'll know it's time to change your heater core when your heat starts smelling like coolant, and the interior windows fog up and even the AC won't prevent it. The good news is, there are only 2 screws that hold the heater core into the HVAC box!! The bad news is, it's going to take you about 4 hours to get to those 2 screws. This writeup is how I did this job, it's not intended to be an exact step by step how to. This job is not for the faint of heart, or small of toolbox.
  • The first step is to take your car to a shop, to have them purge the AC refrigerant. This is REQUIRED, as you have to open the lines into the AC condensor to make this change.
  • Next, move your car to where you are going to be working on it. You will need access to all 4 doors, with plenty of room on either side of the car for parts storage. Try to have the front wheels point streight ahead.
  • Slide the power seats all the way back, and down.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Loosen the spring clamps on the heater core hoses, and slide the hoses off of the heater core lines (DO NOT do this with the coolant hot. Let the car sit and cool off fully before starting):
  • tdisline_649.jpg

    Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).

    tdisline_644.jpg

    Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.

    Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.
    tdisline_648.jpg

  • Remove the glove box. With the glove box open, squeeze the sides inward, so they clear the stops. Let it drop down to the floor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in. 2 are easy, and obvious, they are on the outside edge, you'll see them when you get the cover off the end of the dash.. The 3rd and 4th one are not.
  • The 3rd bolt is near the plunger switch for the glovebox light.
    tdisline_650.jpg
  • #4 is entirely harder to find.. If you could stick your head into the glovebox cavity, you'd be able to see it. In this picture, the bolt head still has the electrical tape on it that I used to keep the bolt firmly stuck into my 8mm socket.
    tdisline_651.jpg Now, on to the center console. On the B5, to remove the center console, you start in the back seats.
  • Pull the ash tray out. There are 2 13mm nuts, remove those. You do NOT need to remove the one 13mm lock nut, that one holds the hand brake frame.
  • Under the armrest, there is that little port for the build in phone, pop that out, and look under it. There is another 13mm nut to remove.
  • Pop the trim covers off using a very small, clean screwdriver. Remove the 8mm bolts from each side.
  • Under the hand brake handle is a very small locking tab. You'll need your smal screwdriver again.. just carefully pry it down. What this does is lock the handle to the trim and the lever. Pull the handle and trim off of the lever.
    tdisline_652.jpg
  • With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle. Next, remove your shifter knob. Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy. Unbolt the center stack trim plate. Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc. On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
    On to the dash: Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end. On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame. Remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts. On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim. Remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column. Remove the instrument cluster. Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal. While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame. Time to move the center stack stuff. You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side. If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector. On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
    Give it a try... Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
    tdisline_653.jpg Legend:
    2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
    3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
    4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
    5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.
    tdisline_654.jpg

    Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car. Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out. Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.
    tdisline_655.jpg

    Jun 13, 2011 | 1996 Audi A4

    1 Answer

    In the back of my engine I have what is called (I beleive) is the dash board compartment. My heater Core is in there and is not part of any box. Do I need to take out the dash, it looks like it can be done...


    How to install a heating core in a 2000 Audi A4
    You'll know it's time to change your heater core when your heat starts smelling like coolant, and the interior windows fog up and even the AC won't prevent it. The good news is, there are only 2 screws that hold the heater core into the HVAC box!! The bad news is, it's going to take you about 4 hours to get to those 2 screws. This writeup is how I did this job, it's not intended to be an exact step by step how to. This job is not for the faint of heart, or small of toolbox. The first step is to take your car to a shop, to have them purge the AC refrigerant. This is REQUIRED, as you have to open the lines into the AC condensor to make this change.
  • Next, move your car to where you are going to be working on it. You will need access to all 4 doors, with plenty of room on either side of the car for parts storage. Try to have the front wheels point streight ahead.
  • Slide the power seats all the way back, and down.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Loosen the spring clamps on the heater core hoses, and slide the hoses off of the heater core lines (DO NOT do this with the coolant hot. Let the car sit and cool off fully before starting.):
    tdisline_48.jpg
  • Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).
    tdisline_49.jpg Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.
  • Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.
    tdisline_50.jpg
  • Remove the glove box. With the glove box open, squeeze the sides inward, so they clear the stops. Let it drop down to the floor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in. 2 are easy, and obvious, they are on the outside edge, you'll see them when you get the cover off the end of the dash.. The 3rd and 4th one are not.
  • The 3rd bolt is near the plunger switch for the glovebox light.
    tdisline_51.jpg
  • #4 is entirely harder to find.. If you could stick your head into the glovebox cavity, you'd be able to see it. (in this pic, the bolt head still has the electrical tape on it that I used to keep the bolt firmly stuck into my 8mm socket.)
    tdisline_52.jpg Now, on to the center console. On the B5, to remove the center console, you start in the back seats.
    Pull the ash tray out. There are 2 13mm nuts, remove those. You do NOT need to remove the one 13mm lock nut, that one holds the hand brake frame.
  • Under the armrest, there is that little port for the build in phone, pop that out, and look under it. There is another 13mm nut to remove.
  • Pop the trim covers off using a very small, clean screwdriver. Remove the 8mm bolts from each side.
  • Under the hand brake handle is a very small locking tab. You'll need your smal screwdriver again.. just carefully pry it down. What this does is lock the handle to the trim and the lever. Pull the handle and trim off of the lever.
    tdisline_53.jpg
  • With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle.
  • Next, remove your shifter knob.
  • Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy.
  • Unbolt the center stack trim plate.
  • Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc.
  • On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.
    On to the dash
    Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end.
  • On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame.
  • remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts.
  • On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim.
  • remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column.
  • Remove the instrument cluster.
  • Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal.
  • While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame.
    Time to move the center stack stuff.
  • You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side.
  • If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector.
  • On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)
    Give it a try..
  • Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.
    tdisline_54.jpg
  • Legend:
    2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
    3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
    4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
    5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.
    tdisline_55.jpg Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car.
  • Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out.
  • Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.
    tdisline_56.jpg
  • Remove the 2 16mm nuts on the driver's side, and try to slide the dash support forward. If I haven't forgotten anything here, it should be free to slide forward a bit. The upper dash vent is mounted to the aluminum frame, so you'll want to keep that in mind when you start yanking on the frame. Now you will realize that someone was VERY worried about this huge wiring harness running away, and saw fit to tie it to the aluminum frame every 6 inches or so. Have fun un-doing all of the cable ties. There seem to be 150 of them. Make a mental (or physical) note of it's orinetation around the steering column. This will come in handy when it comes time to put things back together. Once you get the dash support frame free from the wiring, you can take it out of the car completely. On to the HVAC box!!
    With the aluminum dash frame out of the way, you can begin to get the HAVC box moved from it's spot. If you have not already, remove the 2 ducts that route air to the rear seat footwells. These just slip out of place. Remove all of the connectors in sight. Start to pull the HVAC box into the passenger side footwell. Careful to not pull any wores too tight. Basically you want to move it far enough that you can get the heater core out.
    tdisline_57.jpg

    tdisline_58.jpg

    CAREFULLY remove the old core by unscrewing it, and opening the tabs, then lifting it up and out.

    Nov 29, 2010 | Audi A6 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to install a heating core


    How to install a heating core in a 2000 Audi A4 You'll know it's time to change your heater core when your heat starts smelling like coolant, and the interior windows fog up and even the AC won't prevent it. The good news is, there are only 2 screws that hold the heater core into the HVAC box!! The bad news is, it's going to take you about 4 hours to get to those 2 screws.

    This writeup is how I did this job, it's not intended to be an exact step by step how to. This job is not for the faint of heart, or small of toolbox.

  • The first step is to take your car to a shop, to have them purge the AC refrigerant. This is REQUIRED, as you have to open the lines into the AC condensor to make this change.
  • Next, move your car to where you are going to be working on it. You will need access to all 4 doors, with plenty of room on either side of the car for parts storage. Try to have the front wheels point streight ahead.
  • Slide the power seats all the way back, and down.
  • Disconnect the battery.
  • Loosen the spring clamps on the heater core hoses, and slide the hoses off of the heater core lines (DO NOT do this with the coolant hot. Let the car sit and cool off fully before starting.):

  • ef92bf4.jpg

  • Remove the cover for the pollen filter, and loosen the allen bolt that secures the AC refrigerant lines. Even though you had the refrigerant purged, it may still hiss a little. (at least mine did).

  • d93ec2e.jpg


  • Empty the glove box, center armrest bin, back seat area, etc.
  • Remove the driver's side knee guard. There are 2 8mm bolts in the fuse panel area, one behind each of the snap in covers, and one down below.

  • ed3512c.jpg

  • Remove the glove box. With the glove box open, squeeze the sides inward, so they clear the stops. Let it drop down to the floor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in. 2 are easy, and obvious, they are on the outside edge, you'll see them when you get the cover off the end of the dash.. The 3rd and 4th one are not.
  • The 3rd bolt is near the plunger switch for the glovebox light.

  • fcb5532.jpg

  • #4 is entirely harder to find.. If you could stick your head into the glovebox cavity, you'd be able to see it. (in this pic, the bolt head still has the electrical tape on it that I used to keep the bolt firmly stuck into my 8mm socket.)

  • 77757c2.jpg

    Now, on to the center console. On the B5, to remove the center console, you start in the back seats.
  • Pull the ash tray out. There are 2 13mm nuts, remove those. You do NOT need to remove the one 13mm lock nut, that one holds the hand brake frame.
  • Under the armrest, there is that little port for the build in phone, pop that out, and look under it. There is another 13mm nut to remove.
  • Pop the trim covers off using a very small, clean screwdriver. Remove the 8mm bolts from each side.
  • Under the hand brake handle is a very small locking tab. You'll need your smal screwdriver again.. just carefully pry it down. What this does is lock the handle to the trim and the lever. Pull the handle and trim off of the lever.

  • 4e4a9e0.jpg


  • With the handle up as far as you can get it, you should be able to slide the rear part of the center console out over the hand brake handle.
  • Next, remove your shifter knob.
  • Remove Radio head unit. Make sure you have your code handy.
  • Unbolt the center stack trim plate.
  • Unbolt the center stack trim from the carrier unit, which houses the HVAC head, the dash switches etc.
  • On the driver's side of the center stack, down by the driver's foot, there is a cover for a nut, remove the nut. You might have removed it earlier, when you dropped the knee bolster.

    On to the dash
  • Remove the 2 8mm bolts on each end.
  • On the passenger side, remove the airbag module and the 3 brackets you will see under the airbag. One bracket is the one the aribag module attaches to, the other 2 are the L brackets, they hold the air bag to the dash frame.
  • remove the 8mm bolts on either side of the center stack, they attach the bracket to the frame behind the center stack. Under the center vent area, that same bracket is attached to the dash cover by 3 8mm bolts.
  • On the driver's side, remove the steering wheel, steering column trim.
  • remove the upper cover for the instrument cluster screws. remove the lower trim for the column pass through. The top screws are accessed from the front, stick your torx driver through the hole along side the column.
  • Remove the instrument cluster.
  • Under the steering column, there are 4 allen head bolts, which hold the column up to the aluminum dash support. Careful here, the column will be free to fall on your head at this point. You can carefully set the steering column on the floor, after you have removed the vacuum line for the cruise control from the brake pedal.
  • While you are at the brake pedal, remove the allen bolt that holds the top of the hinge to the dash support. (I've not done this on a 5 speed car, but I suspect that the clutch will have a similar setup). The pedals will stay where they are, but you need to free the top of the assys. from the dash frame.

    Time to move the center stack stuff.
  • You've unbolted the center stack and removed the trim already. Now, you need to take the electronics, and pull them out, and move the whole deal off to the side.
  • If you look in at the HVAC box, under the area where the center dash vents are, you'll see a duct running from the HVAC up to the dash. There is a single 8mm nut holding this duct to the HVAC box, and a small harness connector.
  • On top of the dash, there is the sunlight sensor. The trim pice comes right off of it, it's a small piece. There is a phillips screw that holds this sensor to the center vent. Remove the screw, lift the sensor up, and unplug the harness connector. (Once you get the dash off, tape a long zip tie to the connector, it will help you fish it through when you put the dash back together.)

    Give it a try..
  • Try to pull the dash cover forward and up. The only thing that holds the windshield side of the dash down are 2 clips. The dash SHOULD come right out now, and you should now be seeing the aluminum frame, the HVAC box, and a ridiculous amount of wiring.

  • f989e4d.jpg
    Legend:
    2. The airbag bracketes. The airbag sits on these, the dash will not come out with the bag bolted to these.
    3. This is where the dash skin bolts to the frame. Not pictured is the center piece, at spot 3a.
    4. The airbag module for the seats. Unbolt it from it's perch.
    5. Remove these brackets. They hold the HVAC box in place in the center of the car. It's held in place on the far right side by the aluminum bracket. It's difficult to see in the below image, but behind the far impact absorber (in the red circle), there is a 3 angle bracket, which is held on by that impact absorber, and also bolts to the aluminum cross member, and the HVAC box.. Remove this bracket.

    5b772e1.jpg

  • Since you are already on the passenger side, remove the 16mm nut which holds the dash support to the frame of the car.
  • Back on the driver's side, remove the nuts that hold the realy panel etc. to the aluminum. frame. also, there are 2 phillips screws that hold the rest of the electrical bits to the long thin aluminum. arms, way under, by the firewall. On my car, they were broken somehow. it's a good idea to check first, before you yank the aluminum dash support out.
  • Also, remove the 2 bolts, and pop the fuse panel out of the dash support.

  • 5bef429.jpg

  • Remove the 2 16mm nuts on the driver's side, and try to slide the dash support forward. If I haven't forgotten anything here, it should be free to slide forward a bit.
  • The upper dash vent is mounted to the aluminum frame, so you'll want to keep that in mind when you start yanking on the frame.
  • Now you will realize that someone was VERY worried about this huge wiring harness running away, and saw fit to tie it to the aluminum frame every 6 inches or so. Have fun un-doing all of the cable ties. There seem to be 150 of them. Make a mental (or physical) note of it's orinetation around the steering column. This will come in handy when it comes time to put things back together.
  • Once you get the dash support frame free from the wiring, you can take it out of the car completely.

    On to the HVAC box!!
  • With the aluminum dash frame out of the way, you can begin to get the HAVC box moved from it's spot.
  • If you have not already, remove the 2 ducts that route air to the rear seat footwells. These just slip out of place.
  • Remove all of the connectors in sight. Start to pull the HVAC box into the passenger side footwell. Careful to not pull any wores too tight. Basically you want to move it far enough that you can get the heater core out.

  • c455101.jpg

    4e27441.jpg

    Oct 24, 2010 | 2000 Audi A4

    2 Answers

    How do you remove Tailgate interior PANEL on Ford Freestar 2004 tailgate door


    bc56333.gif

    Remove the 2 bolts from handle, #2 from picture. Remove 2 screws from either side of door pane(#4) now just the clips hold it on, pull panel off at one corner and work your way around until its completely removed.
    Thank you and good luck,
    Lee

    Jun 03, 2010 | 2004 Ford Freestar

    2 Answers

    Change headlight in 1995 cutlass ciera


    Please don't forget to rate!

    Composite Headlights
    1. Open the hood.
    2. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise 1/6 turn, pressing in firmly, until the flanges align with the slots in the retainer ring.
    3. Pull out the bulb assembly. You may have to rock it up and down slightly to loosen it.
    4. Disconnect the bulb base from the harness by lifting the plastic locking tab.
    To install:
    1. Snap a new bulb into the wiring harness. Make sure the locking tab is over the lock.
    2. Install the bulb assembly by putting the small tab in the small notch in the retainer ring.
    3. Turn the bulb assembly 1/6 turn clockwise to lock it in place

    Non-European Style
    1. Remove the headlamp trim panel attaching screws.

    820fafa.gif
    Remove the headlamp trim panel attaching screws

    2. Remove the headlamp bulb retaining screws. Do not touch the two headlamp aiming screws, (at the top and side of the retaining ring), or the headlamp aim will have to be readjusted.


    de2d9b0.gif
    Remove the headlamp trim panel assembly from it's mounting location

    3. Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring screws.


    1eaacc8.gif
    Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring screws


    efd1171.gif
    Once the retaining ring screws are removed, the ring can be pulled away

    4. Pull the bulb and ring forward then separate them. Unplug the electrical connector from the rear of the bulb.


    6fe656e.gif
    Pull the bulb out and unplug the electrical connector


    To install:
    1. Plug the new bulb into the electrical connector.
    2. Install the bulb into the retaining ring and install the ring and bulb.
    3. Install the trim panel.

    Mar 06, 2010 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

    2 Answers

    How to replace a headlight on a 2008 eqinox


    Step 1 - Raise the hood and remove the 4 push-in retainers that go along the top of the front grille. These are each two part retainers - remove both parts by prying with a small screwdriver. Nothing comes off here - this just makes the grille loose for maneuvering the headlight assembly around to get it in and out. Step 2 - Remove the "bow tie" trim piece that runs from headlight to headlight threw the middle of the front grille - it is cheap plastic so do this carefully. To do this, use a flat-bladed screwdriver and a rag (to protect the headlight). This trim part comes off - Started at the driver's side and work toward the passenger side. Place the rag below the trim on the headlight. Carefully pry up on the trim piece with the screwdriver and work the trim with your fingers until it pops out of the headlight assembly catch. There are lock tabs on both the top and bottom of this trim piece when you get to the grille area. Work your way down the trim piece by prying wherever you locate a tab and protecting with the rag as you go until the "bow tie" trim piece comes off. The headlight assembly catches are the tightest. Set it off to the side so you don't step on it or scratch it. Step 3 - Unbolt the light assembly. There are two hex-headed screws on top and one 10MM down inside (towards the center of the car). Remove these 3 bolts. Step 4 - Remove the assembly - There are 2 guide tabs in the lower outside part of the light assembly (opposite the 10MM screw). Wiggle the assembly while pulling out (forward). When the tabs clear, lift up on the headlight and it should be easy to work the rest of the way out to gain access to the headlamp. Step 5 - remove and replace the bulb - it is halogen so you DO NOT touch it with your fingers because the finger oil will cause a hot spot and the bulb will burn out fast. Handle the new bulb with a clean cloth. Re-assembly - I found that by inserting the light assembly under the grille first, I was able to get the two guide tabs to easily line up and pop in place. Everything else was easy.Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to know how you did and please rate to make it easier to post back.

    Jan 07, 2010 | 2008 Chevrolet Equinox

    1 Answer

    How to change the headlight bulb on the passenger side of 2005 equinox


    Step 1 - Raise the hood and remove the 4 push-in retainers that go along the top of the front grille. These are each two part retainers - remove both parts by prying with a small screwdriver. Nothing comes off here - this just makes the grille loose for maneuvering the headlight assembly around to get it in and out.
    Step 2 - Remove the "bow tie" trim piece that runs from headlight to headlight thru the middle of the front grille - it is cheap plastic so do this carefully (mine looks like chrome with the Chevy 'bow tie' in the center). To do this, use a flat-bladed screwdriver and a rag (to protect the headlight). This trim part comes off - I started at the driver's side and work toward the passenger side. Place the rag below the trim on the headlight. Carefully pry up on the trim piece with the screwdriver and work the trim with your fingers until it pops out of the headlight assembly catch. There are lock tabs on both the top and bottom of this trim piece when you get to the grille area. Work your way down the trim piece by prying wherever you locate a tab and protecting with the rag as you go until the "bow tie" trim piece comes off. The headlight assembly catches are the tightest. Set it off to the side so you don't step on it or scratch it.
    Step 3 - Unbolt the light assembly. There are two hex-headed screws on top and one 10MM down inside (towards the center of the car). Remove these 3 bolts.
    Step 4 - Remove the assembly - There are 2 guide tabs in the lower outside part of the light assembly (opposite the 10MM screw). Wiggle the assembly while pulling out (forward). When the tabs clear, lift up on the headlight and it should be easy to work the rest of the way out to gain access to the headlamp.

    Step 5 - remove and replace the bulb - it is halogen so you DO NOT touch it with your fingers because the finger oil will cause a hot spot and the bulb will burn out fast. Handle the new bulb with a clean cloth - a clean sock works well.

    Dec 03, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox

    1 Answer

    How do you remove the head lamp assembly on a 1993


    1. Make sure headlamp is off and open hood.
    2. Taurus model years 1990-1999: you must remove the whole headlamp to replace the bulb. Not a horrible task. Just annoying.
    3. Facing the driver's side headlamp, and looking at the headlamp itself, at clock positions 8, 11 and 1 are the headlight housing screws. They all look the same. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove these 3 screws and set them aside.
    4. Just to the right of the "11 o'clock" housing screw is a bolt (same hexagonal 10mm sized top as the housing screws). This just needs a few turns to loosen it.
    5. Gently pull the whole headlight forward. Now you can get at the bulb.
    6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. Now the headlamp is free to work with. Remove the bulb, replace with a new bulb, make sure the bulb housing cylinder is in place and reconnect the electical.
    7. Place headlamp back into position. Line up screw holes. Tighten the bolt. Replace housing screws and tighten.
    8. Passenger side headlamp is mirror image of driver's side. Screws at 11, 1 and 4 o'clock positions. Bolt should be to the left of the "1 o'clock" housing screw.

    Oct 12, 2009 | 1993 Ford Taurus

    1 Answer

    How do I replace a driver side headlight assembly on a 2000 Isuzo Trooper


    Ha. Good luck:-
    Take the sidelight out, and remove the radiator grill. Remove the trim under the headlamp-2 nuts. The remaining 2 bolt are abve and below the headlamp, then the whole thing slides to the centre and pops out.
    It will take a couple of hours!

    Jun 25, 2009 | 1999 Isuzu Trooper

    1 Answer

    How to replace the electric shift solinode


    the solenoid i think your looking for is inside the side cover of the transmission but you werent specific with which solenoid your looking for, there are a few solenoids in the transmission. its not a job for beginners and its difficult to get to on floor jacks. i will try to explain the process as i've done it before.

    READ WHOLE THING FIRST BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR

    1. safely jack the front of the vehicle up and place on jack stands
    (make sure parking brake is on) and disconnect negative battery
    cable.
    2. remove wheel on drivers side
    3. remove caliper, bracket, and rotor
    4. remove axle nut
    5. unbolt tie rod end
    6. unbolt lower ball joint
    7. unbolt sway bar end link and remove axle
    8. support engine with jack and a piece of wood
    9. unbolt air pump and transmission mount
    10. unbolt subframe on drivers side carefully
    11. LOOSEN do not remove subframe bolts on passenger side
    so the subframe drops a little bit on the drivers side
    12. look on top of the engine bay and remove air box and tubes
    13. remove or move anything else in the way of the top side cover
    bolts
    14. disconnect transmission connector
    15. remove transmission side cover bolts (you may need to loosen
    passenger side subframe bolts a little more to gain access to
    the lower 3 or 4 bolts, also fluid will come out so have a catch
    pan ready)
    16. remove side cover carefully (might have to loosen the subframe
    bolts a little more even to get the cover out)
    17. locate the solenoid you are replacing (there are a few diff ones)
    18. remove solenoid and replace solenoid.
    19. make sure to replace the side cover gasket and the seal around
    the axle hole
    20. reverse the process for re-installation.

    before you attempt this repair make sure for certain that the solenoid you are looking for is in fact located inside the side cover. the instructions i typed are for solenoid replacement in the transmission but you didn't specify which one so don't hold me responsible if these directions arent for the solenoid your looking for.

    Feb 16, 2009 | 1996 Buick Regal Olympic Gold

    Not finding what you are looking for?
    Cars & Trucks Logo

    Related Topics:

    30 people viewed this question

    Ask a Question

    Usually answered in minutes!

    Top Acura Experts

    yadayada
    yadayada

    Level 3 Expert

    75066 Answers

    Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland

    Level 3 Expert

    22095 Answers

    Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte

    Level 3 Expert

    7754 Answers

    Are you an Acura Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

    Answer questions

    Manuals & User Guides

    Loading...