Question about 2001 Ford Escort ZX2
I have a 2001 Ford escort I bought a few months ago. When I got it I knew it was about due for an oil change but since it has been dying and overheating Iam afraid to drive it to go get it checked out. It takes me about 10 mins to get to work after I drive it for a few minutes I can't stop without my air on or it dies. When I'm sitting at a stop light it shakes so hard it dies. But when I have the air on it overheats, does it without the air being on just not as fast. All I do is drive it to work and back home on the backroads due to all the problems. I need serious help so maybe I can find a small-time mechanic I can pay cheap to fix my car. Thank you in advance...
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the thermostat is on the front right side just below the air tube (which you have to remove) in a black hard plastic case. It is a PAIN IN THE ARSE to get to, it will have 2 sensors sticking out of it, on on the bottom, one on the side.
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
cam shaft timing marks on back of cams ,two slots ,use a flat piece of metal to align .remove no1 spark plug and drop long thin screwdriver down it to bring piston just below tdc,then align cams so both cams are on the rock (valves closed) with knob on back cam aligning with pick up sensor left side between lobes.then bring piston up to tdc and fit belt.turn engine over twice with socket on bottom pulley to make sure no valves clear pistons.Remember to remove flat edge from back of cams i didnt last time and bent my home made tool
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
On level ground, jack up the front of the car and support it with axle stands.
Get an open container that will take more than 5 ltrs.
Under the engine block you will find the sump.
On the sump you should find a 13mm nut, this is the drain plug.
Undo the drain plug and have the empty container directly below the sump plug.
Retain the sump plug and clean it with a rag.
When the oil has drained out of the sump, put back the plug making sure the washer is in good condition and the plug is tight.
Now unscrew the oil filter having the old oil container below the filter housing to catch any oil.
Wipe around the the filter housing to remove any and all old oil.
Now offer up the new oil filter but do not tighten.
If the new filter fits the oil filter housing, then remove it and lightly oil the rubber seal on the filter with clean oil.
Now refit the filter and tighten it up. Not too tight, you can do this by hand but get it as tight as you can.
Now lower the car to to the ground.
At the top of the engine you will find an oil filler cap. Undo this cap.
Now put in the new oil to just below the full mark on the dip stick. Let the oil drain through the engine to the sump for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level.
If the level is between 1/2 and full, replace the filler cap and start the engine.
Now look at the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. Also check around the oil filler cap for oil leaks and spillage.
With the engine turned off. Clean any oil spillages and tighten up the oil filter, sump and oil filler cap as required.
Now leave the oil to drain back to the sump for a few minutes.
Check the oil level and top up as required.
I find that it is best to top the oil up to just below the Max mark.
This should solve the problem.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
This is a common complaint on thise vehicles. There is a TSB that involves replacing motor mount brackets and adjusting and neutralizing mounts,I have done this TSB several times. It will improve the issue but not eliminate it. Basically it is a characteristic of this vehicle. At the time Ford didnt have very good luck making the 4 cyl engines run smooth. The vibration wont affect the long term durability of the engine
Posted on Sep 26, 2010
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