Question about Cars & Trucks
Did you change the plugs in it, In That old of a truck depending on the miles on ot , If i had it i would be putting on a new cap and rotor, Not trying to clean it up, Allso it could be the control mudle breaking down, If it was never change, There could be a problem with the fuel (Injecters) Or throtle body.
Posted on Nov 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First thing you need to know is which cylinders are missing. Then, don't forget there is an engine beneath the electronics. Do a quick test with a vacuum gauge and do a compression test. Check the distributor shaft for side play. If everything checks out good, then do electronic component testing. have a code check run (many parts stores do this free) and get a chiltons or haynes manual and follow test procedures in there.
I refrain from giving repair suggestions with problems like yours because people keep changing instead of testing parts. When I work on my vehicles or other peoples cars, I do testing to avoid buying expensive parts that most times won't correct the problem. At this point the most I'd suggest is to clean the mass air flow sensor wires with a Q-tip and carb cleaner...that often helps and is free. If you run into a problem with whatever you find, ask and I'll try to help.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Testimonial: "I followed suggestions, it did helped some what."
SOURCE: 1997 chevy truck running rough
97 chevy 1500 4x4 replaces plugs wires cap rotor dist pick up and crank sensor truck run good when cold as soon it heats up and comes to stop it feels like it boggs down runs rough and stalls any idea what to do?
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
SOURCE: 1998 dodge ram pickup 318 eng.
If the engine seems to run fine over 1450 RPM maybe there is a vacuum hose leaking or EGR valve is slightly stuck open. Any help from the OBD II trouble codes? Or is there simply no MIL and no stored information in the OBD II computer read at the local parts store through the connector by the drivers knee?
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
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