Question about 1994 Lexus Es 300
Trying to locate the ecu was told it is bad and wanted to replace it
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 es 300 lexus
There is one before each catalytic converter (usually up right near the exhaust manifolds), and one after each cat (or if you have a Y-pipe exhaust that brings the two sides together to one pipe and one converter, then there's one after that single converter). Why do you want to change them? Have you gotten failure codes or are you having poor gas mileage? Or have they just been in there a long time? They're usually good for about 60k miles, although of course they can fail early. Usually the symptoms are poor fuel economy, running rich (seen by black smoke out the tailpipes and some rough idling, as well as blackened spark plugs), or fault codes dealing with system-lean or system-rich descriptions. Those symptoms are indicative of bad primary O2 sensors (the ones closest to the engine). If your secondary sensor(s) are failing (the post-cat sensor or sensors) you'll trip a check-engine light warning you of poor catalytic converter efficiency.
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
It is Located on the Driver Side.Apx 1 foot back From the Battery. (Between the firewall and the Battery) on the side panel
down apx 1 foot
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
SOURCE: 92 lexus es300 knock sensor
Need to remove the upper and lower air intake manifold. There are two knock sensors for the front and rear pistons banks. If you plan to do this yourself it is about 1 to 2 hours. While you are at it, there is a short coolant bypass hose sitting in the same spot, replace it. Another problem with the knock sensor is the wire harness used to connect the two knock sensors into one connection sometimes wears out and contacts the metal on the engine causing false signals to the ECM, so replace this cable also.
Just did this last summer on my 99 ES300. Pretty easy.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
Change 1999 Lexus RX 300 Starter
Here are some steps:
1. Disconnect the positive and negative cables from the battery. Disconnect the 2 bolts that connect the battery hold down bracket to the vehicle. All of that was done with a 10 mm socket. Remove the battery it and the plastic tray that it sits on from the vehicle.
2. Loosen the large clamp that secures the engine air intake to the big black plastic box that houses the air filter with a 10 mm socket or a large phillips screwdriver.
3. Unplug the large electrical connector from the top of the air filter box by pressing the tab on the plastic connector and pulling. Unplug the small electrical connector from that same box top in the same manner. This 2nd plug plus a small black air hose the size of your finger are just below and to the left of the master cylinder when you are looking at the engine from the front. Squeeze the hose clamp with plyers and remove that small hose also.
4. Remove the top of the air filter box and the air filter.
5. Remove 3 10 mm bolts from the bottom of the now empty air filter box and pull the box out of the vehicle to gain access to the starter.
6. Depress the tab on the small wire connection that is attached to the starter and pull the wire out in the direction of where the battery had been. This tab was hard to find and press and I ended up getting a mirror to be able to see the tab and what needed to be depressed. I pressed from the bottom up and then pulled the connector out to my right.
7. Remove the 2 starter bolts that hold it to the engine block with a 14mm socket.
8. The starter was snug but you should be able to pull it out (to your right) and flip it up so that the starter gear is pointing towards you to have access to the large cable that is hooked to the starter for power.
9. Use 2 small screwdrivers to slip under the snaps on the plastic connector cover. Open it and slide it back down the cable.
10. Using a 12mm socket, remove the power cable from the starter.
11. Reverse this process to put the new starter in.
12. Enjoy the praise that your wife gives you for a job well done!
Good luck, and remember rated this help.
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
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"To get access to the 3rd brake light:
- Place each hand against both sides of the plastic housing, and firmly grasp and pull the housing towards you. It might not budge at first, but it should move once you get a good grip on it.
- Pull the housing out just enough so that you can see the brake light bulb and stick your hand underneath. Ignore the speaker wires.
- Pull out the old bulb from the socket (it plugs in/out). Wear rubber gloves when handling the new bulb, and put the new one into the socket.
- Reverse the steps here to put the 3rd brake light back into place. Test out your brake light, and you're done" quoted from lexusk8 @ clublexus.com (great forum)
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
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