Question about 1996 Ford Explorer

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Hyraulic clutch reservoir not accepting fluid.

My hydraulic clutch went out. I attempted to fill the reservoir but it only accepted about 1/2 oz. I'm wondering if it's because there's air in the line keeping the fluid from entering. The clutch is in some gear. (I don't know which one). If I turn the engine on, the car moves, fighting the break. I just want to add enough fluid to get to a garage just a block away and don't want to pay for a tow truck for that small distance.

I am in a business parking lot and don't want to try to work on their property. Also, there's ice and snow under the car. Access is difficult under the car as the running board is blocking me from having reasonable access.

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  • charles_kimb Jan 05, 2009

    Thanks for the information, but I do know what kind of fluid I need. The problem is the inability of the fluid to flow into the system. It is hanging up in the reservoir.

  • charles_kimb Jan 05, 2009

    Thank you. I believe your answer was sufficient information. I'll send you a follow-up.

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U use regular DOT approved brake fluid, if the fluid has leaked out u will have to bleed the air out of the system (this may require a shop with a pressure bleeder), this will require u get under the vehicle and pull the rubber boot off the clutch slave cylinder access hole, the bleeder nipple is on a tube sticking off the clutch release bearing and slave cylinder combination unit, I am sure u will see it has leaked out there, u can bleed it but u most likely won't get far before it leaks out again, in order to change the release bearing/slave cylinder the transmission must be pulled.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jan 05, 2009

    I wanted to add that I am a Ford factory tech and am 100% sure of the info I have provided.

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To get more fluid into it, you would have to bleed it from clutch cylinder itself. A lot of auto shops offer free towing if its within a certain distance. If you need any further assistance please let me know. Also please take a moment to accept and rate my solution accordingly.
Thank you,
Lee

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Fluid goes under the bladder. The bladder is there to isolate the fluid from air, since it's air that causes degradation in the fluid. Also, make sure just what type of fluid the manual calls for, since some systems use mineral oil-based fluids (brake fluid is glycol based). Also, the fluid type may be called out on the reservoir cap itself.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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1 Answer

How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

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Nov 29, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

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I need to replace the clutch on 1997 vw jetta, does it have a cluth cable that would need to be replaced, or is it more complicated?


Most modern clutches have a hydraulic line. Emphasis on most, but this is a moot point for a production vehicle. What it should be is this: the clutch pedal is connected to a reservoir, which accepts DoT #3 brake Fluid (Usually), has a hydraulic line going down to the clutch, and either outside the transmission, or right inside it, is a slave cylinder that activates the actual clutch forks.

Jun 27, 2011 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

How do i get the master clinder off?? i have the lines and the bolts off but i cant pull it lose


Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...

Jan 28, 2011 | 1989 Honda Prelude

2 Answers

Where can I find the hydrolic clucth resivoir and why would it be empty. Daughters car she is in Illinois and me Florida. Not much help from here but can let her know where to look for sure?


There should be a small cup size reservoir on the fender strut tower. Looks like thing in upper right corner of below picture. What usually happens to hydraulic clutches when they draw air, it the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission leaks and must be replaced. The system can then be bled of air and proper clutch operation restored. It would be difficult to restore clutch operation just by refilling the reservoir, especially with such a small reservoir. If it is necessary to get the car moving to get it repaired (slave cylinder replacement is a big job on this car, as the transmission must be removed), one could bleed the system with the bad slave cylinder and then drive a short distance. The clutch will likely fail again after about 100 or so cycles of the pedal. I will paste the bleed instructions below. These require someone to get under the car to open the slave bleeder. If you have more questions, please let me know.

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Bleeding The Hydraulic System

Note: brake fluid is corrosive--please wipe any spilled fluid from painted or metal surfaces.
Manual Bleeding

  1. Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid. Check the reservoir level frequently and add fluid as needed.
  2. Connect one end of a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug on the slave cylinder and submerge the other end into a clear container half-filled with clean brake fluid.
  3. Slowly pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times without bring the pedal the full way up.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until all of the air bubbles are removed from the system.
  5. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  6. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder:


Removal & Installation Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.

  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

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1 Answer

Clutch slave cylinder how to bleed


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING Do not use fluid which has been bled from a system to fill the reservoir as it may be aerated, have too much moisture content or possibly be contaminated. Clean the dirt and grease from the cap to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system. It is also important to maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with hydraulic clutch fluid Hydraulic Clutch Fluid GM P/N 12345347 or equivalent.
  1. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator assembly and submerge the other end of the hose in a container of hydraulic clutch fluid.
  2. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold.
  3. Loosen the bleeder screw to purge air.
  4. Tighten the bleeder screw to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  5. Let up on the clutch pedal.
  6. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 until all air is purged from the system.
  7. Fill the reservoir to the top step with hydraulic clutch fluid.
  8. Repeat this bleeding procedure if there is a grinding noise during the clutch spin down procedure.
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1 Answer

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HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full. Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

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1 Answer

Sebring convertible top won't work


You are probably low on hydraulic (ATF) fluid.
Check the lines and cylinders for leaks. Replace any leaking lines or cylinders. Always replace them in pairs.
When the leak is fixed...
Behind the rear seat is the motor/pump/reservoir.
With the top down, fill the reservoir with ATF.
Cycle the system a few times.
Repeat till the reservoir will accept no more fluid.
You can change it to a manual top by removing the bolt at the top of the cylinders and lowering the both shafts down into the cylinders.

Karl at topgunwon.com

Jun 21, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler Sebring

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