Question about Cars & Trucks
1. Rear tail light out (now, after fiddling, both rear lights out)... It's a combo light, as the same light serves as Brake light; and the Brake Light is working (although not illuminated when I put on lights, without braking). I replaced light bulb which was burned out. But there's a third (light-colored/yellow or white) wire which enters through a different hole, which I believe meets back up with the bulb socket(?). But this wire pulled apart when I was replacing the bulb, and is now disconnected (from whatever it was connected to?)... And, believe it or not, I did the same thing on the other side, with the other tail light wiring...so, now, that third wire is disconnected on both sides of the car (right and left tail light)...ugh! As I thought that the third wire reconnected at the base of the bulb socket, I touched the wire to the bulb socket, and sparks flew... I figured I blew a fuse, and may have, although when I apply the brakes, even with the third wire disconnected, the brake lights go on... I do not know where this third wire goes and how/where to reconnect, and if I do learn where to connect it, if this will solve the problem. Any help will be well appreciated... 2. Dashboard lights, now, not working (since fiddling with the tail light)... Don't know what to do to fix this now... 3. Service Engine Soon Light: Service Engine Soon Light on (for a couple of months), but no time or money to have diagnosed or fixed...yet I'm out of inspection and can't afford a ticket either... Just went to PepBoys, and they read and gave me the codes... 1st Code: P10105 MAP/BAR ... ?? 2nd Code: P1775... I read up a bit, and noticed that one of these correlates with rough runnning car, and eating up a lot of gas. This little car, since buying it a little more than a year ago, goes through gas like a Mack truck, as I literally watch the gas gauge move while driving... I would like to take care of any issues that need taking care of, but primarily, for starters, I need to pass inspection (NJ). Is there a way to, first, make that Service Engine Soon light disappear so I can go through inspection without a "red flag" waving in my dashboard (yup, the dash lights aren't working, but that Service Engine Soon light is more brilliant than ever). Any help (w/ any of the above issues) would be much appreciated... Thanks very much!
First, the wires you plucked from the rear lights may be ground wires that corroded and fell out of their termination, or could be secondary wires that provide voltage to your tail parking lights.. and if you touched them to somewhere that had voltage going to it, which it sounds like what happened if sparks flew (or you may have touched a live wire to a ground), you may have sent a voltage spike that blew the dashboard lights out. Did you check all the fuses after the seeing the sparks?? I would suspect that you blew a fuse when that happened. What you need to do is get a volt meter to determine if the loose wires have voltage going to them when the light switch is on, or see if they have continuity to ground.. You say the brake lights work but not the tail lights, so maybe those loose wires either supply voltage to the tail lights, or could be the ground wires for the tail lights. A meter will let you know if they either have voltage going to them or if they have continuity to ground. If you don't know how to do this, you should let someone who knows what they're doing check the wires as you may cause even more damage if you don't know what you're doing.......... I didn't look up your engine codes, but if you have one that has MAP/BAR , it could be that your MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor is bad. This will definitely cause the gas mileage to drop and could cause the engine to run bad..You need to have this vehicle checked for vacuum leaks too. Being that it's an older car, you could have cracked hoses or collapsed hoses causing a vacuum leaks which could also trip the MAP/BAR engine code. If your gas mileage is that bad, it sounds to me like the engine could use a good tune up. Replace air filter and PCV valve, plugs/wires etc. Check for bad or dirty sensors, vacuum lines etc need to be checked...You can have the codes cleared from the computer, but once you do that, the computer will just send the same codes and trip the check engine light again if you do not find and fix the problem causing this condition. Even when you repair the problems, the car will need to be driven for a bit before the computer will allow all the emission parameters to reset and then give you the green light to have the car inspected. Simply clearing the codes without fixing the problems will not allow the vehicle to pass an inspection. The computer needs to reset after the repairs have been done, and then you can take it in for an inspection..Sorry I can't be of more help, but this should give you somewhere to start..Have a look at your vacuum lines, clean or replace the MAP and MAF (mass air flow) sensors (there are you tube vid's on how to do this) and get a meter to see if those loose wires have voltage to them or if they have continuity to ground. Then maybe you can figure out where they came from. I suspect they may have pulled out of a rear light wiring harness connector or a light bulb socket. Good luck!
Posted on Feb 27, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A test light checking each connector would be faster and easier to do. Maybe somebody may have a illustration for you but by far a simple test light is all you need with a helper turning on the different lights as you check them out and writing all your findings down
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
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