Question about 1994 Nissan Quest
Just remove tire ,get a punch and hammer it to stud,be care and don't fatten end of stud,it won't come out.
Posted on Nov 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Nissan Quest 1996 minivan
you need to remove the lower balljoint and the center nut and it should come right out. use pb buster or wd-40 on the splines. they tend to rust up
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
if all fuses are ok witch i guess they are, or none of the windows would be working, i would say it could be just the switch. if you can take the master switch bezel off with out taking door panel off, you might be able to chg. just the switch. or at least test it without switch hooked up and see if motor works .
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
Remove wheel & tire,
remove 2 torx bolts that go from the inside to the outside of the vehicle. They are on the inner side of the brake caliper.
lift the caliper out of the rotor.
remove the brake pads.
To install, you must first squeeze the caliper piston back inot its bore. Do this slowly to prevent damage to the piston. You are forcing excess brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. Slow constant pressure will get the job done. Use a large c clamp or a wooden hammer handel if that's all you have.
Fit the new brake pads in the calipers and slide the assembly back over the rotor.
install the 2 torx bolts, size 40? head I think.
You are done.
If rotors are scored bad, replace them too.
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
There is no easy way, water pumps are hard to change on this vehicle. Before starting the job I would buy a repair manual with step by step instructions. To give you some idea on how long it may take, the labor time is 4.5 hours for an experienced tech.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
Posted on May 03, 2009
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