Question about 2007 Audi Q7 4.2 FSI
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Audi A4 2000,1,9 TDI,Oil type
The best oil for A4 2000, 1.9 TDI, 85 kW, is CASTROL 0W30 SLX Longlife II (TDI Pump Nozzle) VW Norm 506.01 . This oil is issued by Castrol special for TDI - Pumpe Duse (Pump Nozzle) engine as longlife oil (50,000 km service interval, or two years).
Also a normal service oil (15,000 kmservice interval, or one year) is Castrol TXT 5W40, and Castrol EDGE 5W30, for TDI Pump Nozzle engines, VW Norm 505.01.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
- Buy a CR2032 3V battery
- Pry open the battery cover on the remote using a flat head screw driver or a table knife. The pivot point is the chain ring holder opposite to the key.
- Replace battery
Posted on Jul 15, 2010
I would find the MOBIL 1 website and follow their spec. that takes special oil. The oil spec will be in your owners manual, follow that precisely.
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
SOURCE: Oil filter location Audi Q7 3.6
- When removing the plastic belly pans, don't assume all the fastener
bolts are the same. They're all torx but there are actually three
types...one type is obviously unique because it has grey bolt heads with
washers. The other two types are black pan-head bolts. But of the black
pan-head bolts there are two thread types so it helps if you can keep
track of the few that are different (I drove myself crazy when I thought
they were all the same because they wouldn't fit). The grey and black
bolts are different torx sizes too, though I didn't think to make note
of what the sizes were.
- A 6mm hex bit or allen wrench is needed to drain the oil out of the filter assembly.
- A 36mm socket is necessary to remove the fluted cup that holds the oil filter. Also really helps to have a long extension (e.g. 10") for the socket wrench. There's a high-pressure hose that partially blocks access to getting the big socket on the filter cup, but it can be gently pressed out of the way. Be careful though, it could be easily knicked or damaged if you get too rough with it.
- The filter and cup that holds it are snapped together and apparently have to come out together. Unfortunately, the unit won't come out straight down after you've unscrewed it because there's not enough space for it to fit. I had to snake it out by moving it forward through the engine compartment. Very frustrating. Also, I found that the job of getting the filter out was really messy so be prepared by wearing old work clothes or whatever. Even after draining the oil out of the filter assembly with the filter drain plug, there is still oil left in the cup, so when you manuever it out of the engine it spills quite a bit.
- The drain plug on the oil pan is 19mm but there's not enough clearance to get a socket on it so I had to use a box-end wrench (open-end wrench would obviously work too).
That's about it, otherwise it's straightforward as you'd expect an oil change to be. If I think of anything else I'll add it later.
Posted on Sep 23, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 26, 2015 | 2008 Audi Q7 3.0
Sep 26, 2011 | 2006 Audi Q7
Jun 30, 2011 | 2010 Audi Q7
Jan 17, 2011 | 2009 Audi Q7
Jul 24, 2010 | 2008 Audi Q7
Feb 11, 2010 | 2008 Audi Q7
Jun 03, 2009 | 2009 Audi Q7
Sep 11, 2015 | 2007 Audi Q7 4.2 FSI
137 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!