Re: my toyota mr2 front brakes are staying on.do i need a...
1.The fault can be differant places. Are your brakes spounge - Check for air in the line
2.Are they low - Needs adjustmemt
3.Are they hard - Booster problem or non return valve on the vacuum pipe.
4.Brake hoses (rubber ones) are old and is starting to block the flow of the fuide
5.Bad disc pads.
6.Chech the wheel bearings for play.
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MOST OF THE TIME WHEN A CALIBER LOCKS UP: IT IS NOT BECAUSE OF THE CALIBER BEING BAD. THE CAUSE IS THE RUBBER BRAKE LINE GOING TO THE CALIBER IS BAD INSIDE OF THE RUBBER HOSE. ONCE YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL YOU PUSH FLUID INTO THE CALIBER ONCE YOU RELEASE THE PEDAL THE FLUID DOES NOT ALL RETURN TO THE MASTER CYL. THE HOSE IS OLD AND THE RUBBER IS BUSTED INSIDE OF THE HOSE AND THE FLUID IS STAYING INSIDE OF HOSE AND HOLDING PRESSURE ON THE CALIBER. I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME AND NEEDLESS TO SAY IT COST ME AROUND $500.00 TO HAVE IT FIXED AFTER I REPLACED CALIBER, ROTOR AND BRAKES.
You need to change your front brake calibers, they are not retracting as they should when you leave off the brakes.Yes get both sides if you dont the other will go shotly after and 2 new one will have better calibration and grab better
clutch master cylinder with reservoir is adjacent to the brake reservoir in the front trunk. Drivers side, about 6 inches more to the side of the car. see http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/mastercyl/mastercyl.html
The alternator bracket has to come out as well if you want to remove it from the top. Otherwise, I think if the entire exhaust system is removed, the alternator will come out. The bracket has 4 bolts that attach to the engine. Without removing it (after removing your alternator and setting it on the back bracing out of the way) you can't get the alternator past the intake manifold or alternator bracket.
Yea they are different! Rotors,Calipers and Knuckles. And there is also ABS on the turbo and I dont think they put them on the N/A in the early years. Did you cut the rotors b4 putting on new breaks? That will cause shudder....Incorrect tire pressure and as well as incorrect tire ware will cause some...And in Old struts from 20 years ago and that will help in tire ware and shudder....OLD Mr2's also need to have the tie rods changes.....they like to break. Jack up the car as well and shake the wheels left and right and that should tell you of tie rod issues. Hope that helps. Ive had five MR2's and have seen the majority of the problems.
You can sometime just pull it off but sometimes you will need to take a screwdriver and push the brake pad back on the caliber piston side. This will force the piston back and allow you to remove the caliber. After you remove it you will need to compress the caliber piston fully back in order to allow room the install the new pads and get them back on the rotor. Sometimes you can fully compress it while the caliber is still installed. On some vehicles like Honda you need a special tool in order to compress the caliber. Most auto parts stores will lend you the tool if you buy the pads from them. Be sure and loosen the master cylinder fill cap to allow the brake fluid to expand in the master cylinder. Clean everything off with spray brake cleaner before installing the new pads and clean the new pads throughly. Be sure and install pads in pairs. Do both front wheels or both back wheels not just one.