Question about 1995 Suzuki Swift
It is normal for a car without power steering to be difficult to turn the wheels when the car is stationary or at very low speeds. Once you are moving above say 10 mph the steering should be fairly easy.
Posted on Nov 08, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your experiencing the same thing my 02 is experiencing- your crankshaft pulley is slipping on the crankshaft. It only does it under load, i.e. turning steering wheel(loads the power steering pump) running heater blower on high with headlights on (loading the alternator) or running the a/c with blower (loading the a/c compressor and alternator). Turning off all lights, blowers, ac, etc and allowing the car to idle should kill the slipping until loaded again. This problem is very serious and very expensive if your don't catch it early. It require repairs ranging from tightening the crank to pulley bolt, to replacing the pulley AND your crankshaft if it is allowed to continue. if you cannot get it serviced immediately then do your best to keep loads off of your belts by driving with the blower off, A/C off, and lights used only when necessary. Also try to avoid extreme tight turns which load your power steering pump. Your repair, if not done asap, will cost you upwards of around $3k since the motor must be removed and completely torn down to replace your crankshaft and pulley. I would seek a tech who will exhaust every other method- i.e. sleeving, welding, etc. to effect a repair. Just don't put it off because it will only get worse...
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
Most likely the problem is the lower steering knuckle. This is the one outside of the firewall, under the vehicle and it hooks up to the power steering assist cylinder. In my opinion the knuckle has to work at an unreasonably steep angle and this compounds the problem. The knuckle (especially in salt areas starts to corrode and becomes hard to turn. Toyota says the water gets into the bearing and they beings to rust the bearing and turning the whell starts to feel stiff. I have this problem and I sprayed liberal amounts of a rust inhibitor that a local place uses to rust proof cars (They sell small spray bottles of it for $5). They are called OIL TECH in Barrie, Ontario and make up their own formula. The formula has addatives that breaks the surface tension on the oil treatment and gets it into the tiny cracks and crevices on your vehicle. I sprayed this all over the knuckle, turned it back and forth a couple of times and continued spraying. I let it sit for an hour and went for a test drive -- problem solved. You could actually see the rust on the exposed parts of the knuckle. I probably will have to do this once every month of two but what the heck. It is a lot cheaper than having to replace the steering shaft ($1000+???) Probably other types of rust proofing or lubricating oils will work. I long for the old days of grease fittings and you never had to replace ball joints and tie rod ends etc.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
rack and-or pinion... Good thing the 98 is a very good and popular windstar, its not as bad as it sounds.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
There's an O-ring on those oil lines,maybe you cut or lost one.They're available at your local parts store.I hope that's all it is,not your power steering pump or rack.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
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