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In drive or reverse with foot on brake car vibrates but if i accelerate while foot on brake- noise goes away

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: When i put it in reverse it makes a loud clunk

Hi Ali,

This sounds like one or more of your motor/powerplant mounts is broken. Here is an easy test:

Have someone sit in the driver's sear with engine running and trans. in Park.
You stand in front with the hood open. Have them shift from Park to Reverse, and then Drive and back to Reverse and Park, taking time to stay in each gear and give some throttle while holding the brake pedal tight. This will rock or move the engine a certain amount as they shift through the gears and apply power lightly. It will move alot more violently with broken mounts.

If you have a clunking noise on Reverse shifts, you should be able reproduce this with the hood up and pinpoint the noise and/or sight the faulty motor mount with a friend's help. Good luck, I hope this puts you on the right track to fixing this annoying noise.

Sincerely, Tater Todd

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: Idle and gear shifting 1987 celica automatic

I would suggest hat you replace the timing belt. The noise that you hear is the belt.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Toyota Corolla Vibrates

your transmission mounts are worn out. please rate once you get it fixed.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan, 69k miles, vibration

check serpentine belt tenssioner

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

  • 5537 Answers

SOURCE: on occasion front brakes staying engaged while

Well, guess I don't need to tell you this is dangerous and that your front Rotors are probably trashed.

This sounds like either a bad Master cylinder or a leaking Brake booster. There can also be a bad check valve on the Vacuum line plugging into the Brake booster. There is a rather large line with a plastic fitting, sometimes a 90 degree fitting on the end and the check valve is in the plastic

You can test the Brake booster with the engine running and using an approved Brake cleaner safe for rubber and plastics. Cover the outside bottom of the hood so spray does not get on your paint. Then spray around the Booster. If the engine RPM changes, you have a leak. Save the actuating rod, and replace the Booster. Spray the check valve, if RPM changes replace it.

Now for the Master cylinder, pressure gauges can be attached to the front fluid discharge to measure if the internal pistons are sticking. But you may spend more Labor in testing, than the part is worth.

My reasons for choosing these parts as defects are that your "Brake or ABS" warning lights are not on so the problem would be before those monitoring devices. The Vacuum system is not monitored and you hear hissing. The Master cylinder is not monitored before the ABS unit.

I hope you find my solution helpful.

Posted on Dec 01, 2010

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