Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: heater blower not working
I would check the blower motor fuse first. If that's all fine, than check at the blower motor connector (behind the glove box). unplug the connector (white connector with 2 wires red and black I think) and unplug it. Turn the fan control ON. Get a DVOM (digital volt meter) or just a plain old analog meter and check across the connector. You should have some reading, while you are using the blower controls by the radio. The faster you wabt the blower motor to go the more voltage there willl be on the meter and vise versa. So in other words on full HIGH the meter should read about 12V. On LOW the meter will be down to 6V or so. The speed adjustment of the blower motor gets done by the "blower motor resistor" and the controler by the radio. Anyways, let me know what you find as far as the voltage goes at the blower motor. OR you can just turn on the control on high and tap the motor with something solid (hammer) and see if it comes on. I have a feeling that it will.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Yes could be the blower relay or loose ground in the blower circuit.
Try your local library they may have a manual with the cicuit diagram.
Posted on Nov 02, 2009
If the switch itself feels just the same as it always has then the most likely fault is that the rear wiper motor located behind the panel in the tailgate has suffered a failure of the self-parking mechanism: it's what ensures that after you turn the wiper off, the motor keeps running until the wiper is back in the parked position.
There are two major parts to the way it works: a self parking switch which works off a cam located in the wiper motor, and a back-emf brake which overcomes the inertia of the mechanism.
The simplest fix will be to just replace the motor assembly. You can get one from a scrapyard, but won't know whether it's about to fail for the same wear-related reasons. Alternatively fit a new or remanufactured unit. You'll also find that a good automotive electrician can usually fix the original motor, but as it's nearly ten years old there may be other wear-related issues waiting to bite you on the bottom so I'd personally go for a remanufactured unit from a trustworthy supplier. Such units normally come with a minimum one year warranty. Anything with just a 30 or 90 day warranty has likely just been taken from a scrapped vehicle, cleaned and given a shiny coat of paint...
Posted on Mar 15, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the info-Appararently quite a common occurence & particularly annoying on a long drive"
Look on the left wall next on the driver's side, tucked up under there, you should find 2, and I think one more under the seat. One is for the transmission. One is I don't know, and the other is the ecu, they will say what they are on them. I think the one under your seat is the ignitor, not sure. It will not be buried anywhere you can't get to, you have a obd2 plug somewhere that you plug in the tester to, it should be near that thing. Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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