Question about 1984 Ford F 150

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Late 1986 ford 302, F150 pickup

Motor will not run or stalles out at between 2 to 3 thousand RPM. Runs ok below that. Have had everything check out at a Ford Dealer Ship but they can't slove the problem. Truck is not wear out only has 70,000 orginal miles.

The truck is a 1986 Ford F150, it won't let me enter that, only 1984 Ford F150 will enter.

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Sounds almost like the newer vehicles equiped with cam sensors instead of the distributer system i had a similar problem with an 87 ford bronco 2 it would stall out right around 2800 rpm i replaced the control module usually mounted on the distributer at least mine was and it fixed it right up but as for ur truck im not sure they are only like 30 bucks at autozone or something worth a try right??

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

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I have a ford ranger 1986 ive replaced plugs,wires, coil, cap, rotor button and still i have a orange spark could it be the pickup coil


Color of spark is a kinda age-old test, but it doesnt necessarily mean anything. Some cars you will usually see orange during a cranking spark test because the resistance of the system and the coil windings reduces voltage below the "blue" spark level until voltage gets over 14v, which doesnt happen until the engine is running.

If the car runs at idle and rev, it is unlikely its the pickup coil. The pickup is the RPM sensor, pretty much it either works OK or works terribly/not at all (though sometimes they are funny, its rare). If it runs fine for awhile, then after 30 minutes it starts to cut out or stall, and when it cools it runs again, THAT is pickup coil type of failure, but not yellow spark. Pickup doesnt make spark or affect its quality in any way. It simply says WHEN to make spark. After it signals WHEN, the module and coil and source voltage determine how much is made.

If you still think you have low spark issues, id test it with a test plug. Its an adjustable or fixed gap spark plug you can buy at a parts house. You need minimum 25kv consistent spark from the coil.(30 is better). What that means is you hook a work from the cap to the spark tester, and with the engine running it will fire regular sparks and not skip any. If it does...spark is not your problem. Period. If it doesnt, then you start checking wires, resistance, voltage, etc.

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