Question about 2002 Toyota Highlander
If the battery got replaced on that very day,the moment of disconnection the long fuel trim in the ECM memory are erased,So to restor it the mechanic would of have to high idle the RPM in park or neutral at 1200 RPM and switch on the A/C, for at least one minute, there the idle would of been restored.You may have to do the same thing described,Now if this doesnt work and restore the idle trim you may be dealing with something else.like a loose MAF (mass airflow) duct,ect..
Posted on Nov 08, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the voltage of battery with voltmeter.. It is sometimes possible that if voltage of battery drops and jump start is needed, your computer will only charge to the last voltage that was recognized which would be when jumped...Try and charge the battery if possible I would actually suggest that you have your battery tested at local auto parts store and if it is presumed in good condition ,let them charge for you to max capacity . If battery has been tested and labeled as no good replace if necessary... Oh, and first thing you should do is make sure your positive and negative battery connections are clean and tight...if this didnt fix problem please give more info on what was found when advice above was followed...Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Won't idle after battery change... SOLVED! well, for me anyway. :)
I just experienced the same problem on my 2002 tundra last night, and fixed it this morning after sleeping on the problem. Here's how it went.
I cleaned the terminals, etc., and replaced the battery, as it was 7yo and old and on the verge of failing.
Immediately after this, the truck would start right up but the idle would drop to about 100 RPM, then slower and slower, and eventually stall. Every time.
I warmed it up and drove around the neighborhood for about 45 minutes, thinking the computer needed to re-learn it's Idle settings, etc... No change.
This morning, I decided to go after the cheap and easy fixes first...
Inspect throttle body... it was filthy full of black sticky dirty/sludgy stuff. I cleaned it off using a rag and some brake cleaner. DID NOT spray brake cleaner IN the opening; just on the rag and then wiped all of the gunk out of the opening, butterfly, and inside as far as my fingers would reach with the butterfly open.
Reassembled everything, started truck... runs perfectly.
Dead battery? Won't run? Dirty throttle body? How do these all tie together?! Here's why (to the best of my understanding).
Over the past 65k miles, dirt and gunk slowly but surely builds up in the throttle body. At some point, the computer senses that this affects the air/fuel mixture or something of this nature. The computer compensates for this, and stores it to it's memory. Sometime during the vehicles lifetime, the battery fails or is disconnected. The compensation settings that the computer stored are lost when the power is disconnected, so the next time the engine is started it's telling everything to behave as default... but the car isn't in a default state, there's **** in the throttle body... or a bad sensor, etc.
I could be way off, but my gut feeling is that this is correct. My advice: Pull the intake tube off the front of the engine and clean the gunk out of the throttle body. It should be the first thing to try, since it's the cheapest and easiest thing that I can think of.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
it sounds like a common toyota problem........."idle air control motor", the part is very easy too change, and if your looking to save money.try a junk yard , it is a commonly used part and theyll have it much cheaper than parts stores....you can try to unplug the idle motor and see if the car runs (not better, but more even RPMS)...it the idle is even and not up and down,,,, it is for sure a bad idle motor,,, let me know, ill guide ya through the testing if needed..........marty
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
SOURCE: stalls when warm 95 camry
I had a problem with my 1995 Camry also. I would run fine cold, warm up when you let off the gas or shifted gears it would die. Sometimes it would start back up and sometimes it would not. After Many repairs, full tune up ect. ect. it turns out that the Coolant Temperature Sensor was bad. A $15 part. When you are driving the engine stays cool but once you let off the gas, when this sensor is bad, it reads the engine as hot and stalls it to keep it from overheating.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
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