Question about 2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi
May be odd but anti theft can shut down the injectors, check injector fuses and relay.. You could have a problem such as key magnet is bad. If you have a spare key try it, or if you have tried many times may have to look at reprogram. I really am not sure but the anti-theft has given me problem twice in the last 10 year but it was GM cars. Most important of all if you have check engine light are any trouble code you need to check it. It is the best way to narrow the search down.
Posted on Aug 05, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check around the MAP sensor area for any connections that may have been disturbed while you were replacing the sensor. Most or all of those functions are controlled by the body control module. I would think that a fault like that would show on the scanner readouts.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
I had the same problem with my 1999 Chrysler Sebring 2.5L V6 Convertable. It started stalling at intersections; would lose RPMs' and die while driving it; and would not start unless it sat for a few minutes. Once it started, you'd have the scenario start all over again...
I hadn't kept up my maintenance schedule like I usually do, so I did the usual; I replaced my spark plugs and wires, changed the oil and filters, ect...
Finally, after it doing the same thing and wasting a ton of time and frustration on the side of the road, I took it to a mechanic that put it on his $9,000 diagnostic machine. The verdict; CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR!
The Haynes Manual will tell you wrong on its location for the 1999 Lxi 2.5L V6 convertable; it is NOT LOCATED BEHIND THE BATTERY TRAY. The crankshaft position sensor is actually located about 4 to 6 inches below the distributor, which is about dead center of the motor, on the transaxle housing.
You do have to take off the tire and the skirt cover to get to it. I had to purchase two long socket extensions just to get to the bolt that mounts the sensor to the transaxle housing; but it was well worth the 20 bucks...
All in all, it took me three hours to find the damn thing, and then to figure out what I needed to take the old one off and get the new one installed.
The $65 dollars that I spent to find out what the problem was is worth it....
Now, the car runs better than ever....
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
Since the battery seems to be okay. You might want to check your starter. The battery gives power to the starter. Then the starter makes the alternator charge, the alternator replace the volts to put back in the battery.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
Hope you got a good deal on that oil change. do you believe in coincidence. I can't imagine how an oil change could do anything to stop the engine from starting. So you have to rule out things like starter and fuel pump. to check the fuel pump go to a parts store and buy a can of starter fluid. Remove the top pf the air cleaner box. Have someone spray starter fluid into the opening going to the engine while you are trying to start the motor. If it fires up the pump is bad if not go on to the starter. For the starter locate the relay under the hood (in a fuse box) labeled for the starter. Remove it. Then run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery (careful not to ground to car) and touch where the relay plugged in. One of the points should kick the starter over. If none of them do i would suspect the starter. if all is ok the next possible suspect is the computer. You will need a dealer for this one but some computers have extended warranties because of problems so ask the dealer about it. I just had one replaced for a customer last summer on a 2001 Chrysler T&C and it was covered under warranty. Whole visit was around $200 If this helps please reply and good luck
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
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Also check manifold vacuum at idle the best you can hold an idle. I have run into timing belt being one tooth off and engine still ran fine. But the vacuum was low that's how I could tell the belt was a tooth off.
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