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Suspension cross member bolt torque settings - 1992 Toyota Corolla

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: What torque should the bolts securing the lower

105FT-LBS

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

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SOURCE: camry sportivo 2007 4cylinder get

Remove the front bolts of the cross member prolly has a splash sheild you need to unbolt b4 that also up by the frnt bumper.

Posted on Jan 16, 2011

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Hi, you will need a jack, jack stand, wrench, ratchet set and pliers to complete this job successfully. You have to start by raising the front and rear of your Saab using the jack and place it on jack stands. The entire Saab should be off the ground.
Then you continue by removing the shift linkage and throttle body from the transmission using the wrench and ratchet set. Use the pliers to loosen the nut securing the vacuum hoses on the transmission and remove the vacuum hose. Remove the speedometer cable using the pliers.
Slide the rear U-joint out of the rear end of the Saab's transmission as you remove it.
You then place the transmission jack under the transmission. Lift up on the transmission slightly to relieve weight. Disconnect the lower bell housing, torque converter bolts and bell housing bolts using the ratchet set and wrench.
You finally remove the transmission mount and cross-member bolts using the ratchet set. Lift the transmission using the jack to remove the cross member. Lower the transmission slowly while pulling it toward the back of the car.

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1994 gmc sierra 1500 pickup 4.3 L. v6...I am dropping trans pan to replace filter and gasket and add fresh trans fluid....the rear pan bolts are obstructed by a cross member and trans mount....I can see...


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There called torsion bar mount bushings, and will cost about $34.00 for both of them. Parts Source.

Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side
  • 1 Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.
  • 2 Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.
  • 3 Push up on cross member, remove old mount.
  • 4 Insert new mount - push up on cross member, slip mount in between frame and cross member. Drop hole in cross member over the stud.
  • 5 Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.
Now over to the passenger side
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  • 7 Repeat steps 1 and 2
  • 8 To get the mount out, try pushing up on the cross member, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the cross member up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.
  • 9 Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the cross member high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.
  • 10 Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.
  • 11 Remove jack, Torque down drives side.
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CLUNKING NOISE FROM REAR AXLE


Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

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