Question about 2004 Chevrolet Blazer

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Alternator making noise had it checked out it passed the test got new battery other one was drained now dash lights get bright and dim really fast

Try to start it it made a clicking noise then it went dead had nothing got a new battery had alternator checked out it passed the test so i tried it again now the alternator is making a noise and my dash lights are going bright and dim real fast

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  • Rob getz Nov 07, 2012

    Get the alternator check out again, If it is noisey, A bearing is (Probaly) Shot on it, Or if it is making a whistleing noise the dioids are shut on it, It can be rebuilt, Or just get a (Different) One. If your dash lights (DIM) the problem is within the (Alternator) 95% of the time, Unless you have a high (Powered) Stereo in it, They will cause the dash lights to (Dim) When (Crank)Up.

  • Susan Holler Nov 09, 2012

    Changed alternator it works fine now thank you

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  • Expert
  • 177 Answers

The most common thing which fails in alternator and create noise is bearing failure. I think you should check for that once.

Performance Product Store

Posted on Nov 07, 2012

  • Rob getz Nov 07, 2012

    Rob Getz, I think they could of cut the hint about the bearings from the solution that i sent to them,Quit try to look like you no what your doing .Buy answer quest the same way as what other people put in there (Solution)

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2004 Kia Rio Won't Start Clicking Noise Battery is GOOD

Sounds like the starter.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Ford explorer will not start

Sounds like connections or cables. They may appear to look good but if they are aftermarket terminal ends they get corrosion under the bolt down clamp that holds the wires in. If they are factory cables that are molded on to the ends of the wires the same thing can happen. The easiest and cheapest thing to try is to put aftermarket terminal ends on the cables. Make sure you wirebrush the ends of the cables after you strip them and tighten them evenly and securely. Also clean the battery side thoroughly. If this doesn't work check the starter relay. Its the first place the red cable bolts to after the battery. Check the connections and try putting a jumper wire between the battery positive cable and the small terminal marked with an "S". One of these solutions should take care of this.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • 398 Answers

SOURCE: 1987 F150 302 ci. EFI, Automatic,

try over riding the starter relay on the fender ,it has one there right?. dont go to a mechanic yet. the engine aint seized. if it doesnt have this relay then i would get the alternator tested. if you want to test it yourself it can be costly for the right equip. autozone usually tests for free. i dont know were you live so if theres not an autozone. let me know if you cant get it tested.

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 mercury cougar wont start

clicking usually sounds like a starter sometiimes when they start going bad it gets stuck that's why u only hear clicking, try tapping it with a steel bar or something it worked for me wen my car was doing that, and what u mentioned about the battery it might be that is not holding charge even if u try jump starting it

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 FORD EXPLORER parked it, 3 hrs later , won't

You are right.Its the key code problem. As per the manual it says:--- sometimes when the battery is disconnected or has to be recharged - this happens. The computer forgets the key code and the key has to be re-coded. The ford service center/dealer charge $35 to $50 for recoding the key and this makes the car to function properly and it starts . ---------------- Also check the code in your car:--- under the plastic-passenger side under the very back window-next to rear passenger door jam-Looks like a black box. The Original Code is on a tag on that box.But if its not there then dealer is other option/.It takes few minutes to get recoded.----------------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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1 Answer

06 bug drains battery over night


On most 12v cars,the #1 cause is a light left on somewhere in the vehicle.#2 cause is a bad diode in the alternator and #3 is a bad battery which self discharges and is usually over 5 years old.
An easy first step is to disconnect the charged battery over night.If it still has a full charge the next morning,after you reconnect it and if the car starts,you can rule out the battery as the culprit.Now,if the battery passed the first test,now we go onto #2 test and disconnect the alternator output wire from the alternator overnight.If the battery still has a full charge the next day we will now know the alternator has a bad diode and will need to be repaired/replaced.If the battery was found to be low on charge the next morning with the alternator disconnected we will now have to go on to test #3 to find the drain in the vehicle. Disconnect the positive battery cable and place a 12v regular bulb type test light between the positive cable and the battery positive post.You should have a bright light on the test light if you have a drain in the vehicle from the battery.(don't worry about a dim light as electronics need a little memory voltage) We are looking only for a bright light.With the key off (as it would be overnight) you are now going to remove one fuse at a time while watching the brightness level of the test light.Take one fuse out, look at the light and if no change in brightness put the fuse back in and on to the next fuse,one by one until you see the light go out or dim.The fuse that dims or removes the bright test light will be the circuit that is draining your battery.Now you have your "battery drain" circuit identified and can inspect/repair the item/items on that circuit.
REMEMBER an open door,trunk or hood may cause a FALSE bright light on your test light because of courtesy light switches and alarm switches so manually close those switches if you need to keep one of the doors or hood/trunk open to gain access to the multiple fuse boxes in many vehicles.
DO NOT TURN ON THE KEY during this test, as all power to the vehicle is now going through the test light and things won't be happy if you do.

Apr 09, 2017 | 2006 Volkswagen New Beetle

2 Answers

The security key light blinks until I turn the engine over & then it goes off. Any ideas whatb this means? Also the battery keeps draining. Could the blinking light cause this?


It means the immobilizer is active (anti-theft); this is normal. If your key starts the car, then it is only cosmetically damaged. The light won't kill your battery in normal circumstances. Have your battery load tested before delving any deeper into the parasitic draw (battery draining problem).

Mar 10, 2016 | 2004 Buick Rendezvous

1 Answer

Starter will not engage, acts like not enough power from the battery


A test for a battery drain in the vehicle is to place a test light between the battery positive terminal and the battery positive cable,with the cable disconnected from the battery.If the test light glows bright you do in fact have a power drain.Pull one fuse at a time until the test light goes dim or off and then you will know which circuit is draining the battery.If no fuse removal dims the light,then disconnect the alternator output wire to check for a bad diode draining the battery in the alternator.Do not open doors or trunk etc and cause a accidental drain masking the real drain.DO NOT try to use any accessory or start the car with test light connected.

May 01, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Electrical Issues/Battery Dying


I haven't heard about problems like that other than in a flood damaged vehicle.Did you buy it new?
To check for a battery drain yourself,disconnect the battery large cable and place a 12 volt test light between the cable and the battery positive.If you see a bright light on the test light you do have a vehicle drain,if it's dim don't worry about it.Now,if the light is bright pull one fuse at a time until the light goes dim,this will be the circuit draining and you can now trouble shoot that circuit.Don't cause a bright light by opening a door or turning on the key.DO NOT TRY AND START THE VEHICLE while the test light is hooked up.

May 05, 2017 | 2007 Chevrolet Equinox LS New Cars

2 Answers

My 98 lumina has a constant power draw from somewhere. I just replace the battery and had the alt tested (it was good). I have to jump the dang thing every morning but if I drive it enough during the day...


The alternator may charge fine but could drain the battery through a bad diode,have you checked the alt for a bad diode?Disconnect the battery positive cable.Put a regular 12v test light between the battery positive post and the positive battery cable.If the test light is bright you do have a drain,if dim it is OK.A dim light may mean the drain is internal in the battery.If you do have a bright light remove a fuse ,one at a time from the fuse box until the light goes dim.Once dim you have identified the bad circuit.If removing all fuses do not dim the light,disconnect the alt charging wire at the alt,if that dims the light,then you do have a bad diode.DO NOT create a drain(bright light) when checking for the drain by turning on the key or opening a door/trunk etc.
Also,do an overnight battery check by disconnecting the battery overnight,if things are fine the next morning after the battery was disconnected then it is a drain in the vehicle,if the battery is dead even after being disconnected overnight,,then the battery is bad.

Jun 15, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What component besides an alternator would make my car battery drain?


could have a draw on the battery or a bad battery
to check for a draw remove positive battery cable from battery take a test light (if you don't have one borrow one or buy one there real cheap and very useful )
attach one end of test light to positive post of battery attach other end of test light to the removed battery cable if the test light lights up bright u have a draw on battery start pulling fuses until light goes really dim or go out then u will know what circuit to look for a possible short on

if light is really dim or off when you connect it u don't have draw (the dim light is just computer and radio memory that always draw on battery but so little of draw it shouldn't effect anything

if you don't have a draw on battery u have either a bad battery (won't hold a charge) or a alternator that not charging battery

Jan 29, 2011 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery dead every morning, hav 2 jump start..battery n alternator good


you have a drain on the battery. take the positive battery post off and connect a test light between the battery post and the cable. it should be very dim. if it is bright you have a short somewhere. make sure the doors are closed and take out the under hood bulb. if your test light is bright, start pulling fuses out untill light goes dim, then whatever fuse you removed to dim the light that will be the circut that is affected.

Jan 07, 2011 | 2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

This is an additional inquiry regarding my Taurus. My 1998 Ford Taurus has a battery that keeps dying in about 1-2 days. The battery is new, and I was having the same problem with the old battery as well....


The best way to check for a power drain or a "draw" on the battery is to dis-connect the negative, or "Neg" (-) side battery cable and then connect a test light not a meter, between the "Neg" (-) side battery post and the battery terminal at the end of the battery cable.

With the key removed, all of the doors closed, and no accessories turned on, and also if there is a light under the hood dis-connect it for now. Normally the test light when connected should start off bright and then quickly dim down until the test light is almost not even showing a connection and the filament inside of bulb that is inside of the test light will barely glow and not even light up, this is normal and the only thing that should be drawing power is the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) for any control moudules or accessories that require a KAM. If this is the case then the condition of the battery would be suspected of being at fault and an internal short inside of the battery will not show up as a draw on the battery, and the battery voltage will slowly drop off all by itself with nothing even connected to the battery.

If the test light does not dim down and stays bright, or it will dim down but will also still dully light up the test light, then there is a draw on the battery and if you start removing the fuses until the test light dims down and barely makes the test light filament glow, then you will know what circuit is at fault, but if the light never dims down with all of the fuses removed, the doors are all closed, and no accessories are turned on, then dis-connect the wiring to the alternator and if the test light dims down to almost nothing, then the draw is in the alternator itself.

Common places to find a draw are the vanity lights inside of the sun visors are not turning off or are shorted, the power door lock(s) are faulty, or after-market accessories that are not properly installed, and there is even the possibility that something metal has dropped down into a cigarette lighter or a power point and is making a connection there, such as a watch battery. Also check the wiring for any wires that have been melted together or if they are missing insulation allowing the wires to touch each other or a body ground.

Jun 16, 2010 | 1998 Ford Taurus

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