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Fuel pressure drops when put in gear, stalls

Fuel pressure drops when put in gear and it stalls. Did NOT do this until rear axle was changed. Fuel pump has been changed, still has problem. Electrical grounds have been trouble shooted also. Please help. Mechanic has had it for two weeks and can't find the problem $$$

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  • Zach Sexton Nov 11, 2012

    Turns out this could be a continuation of an earlier problem. The blazer stalled and would not start. The first mechanic replaced the fuel pump because the pressure kept fluctuating. He also replaced the starter. The blazer ran okay for a couple of weeks. The rear axle was replaced, my son picked it up, and it quit again. He could not get it into gear to move it from the spot it died. A couple of guys did something under the hood and finally got it started. My son barely made it home. It would not start again and he couldnt get the key out of the ignition switch. Have taken it to the second mechanic and he replaced the fuel pump again. He said the pump was not putting out the correct pressure. So now, it will run in park but as soon as it is put in gear, it dies. He has checked the grounds, dropped the fuel tank twice, and still can't find the problem. Been in the shop going on 3 weeks.

  • Rob getz Nov 12, 2012

    I notice you said some guys at one time done soething under the hood then it started, It could be a defective relay, That is probaly located in the engine compartment somewhere, Or the fuel pump regulator is hooch, Or a defective mass air flow sensor,

  • Zach Sexton Nov 12, 2012

    Talked to the mechanic again. Something is causing the fuel pump to not get the voltage it needs to bring it to pressure. Fuel regulator changed. When current run directly to fuel pump, it pumps to correct pressure. New starter. Ignition switch was changed. Mechanic says it is not a problem with spark but the fuel pump itself not getting the voltage it needs. He has also checked the wiring.



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You are equipt with a CSFI injection system,most tech call it the spider injection system,these injector deliver fuel to the popet injector by a tube a plastic tube ,if this tube rupture there is no way for you to see it ,and plus if the fuel pressure is unstable you have a pressure regulator failure,not the fuel pump,dropping the axle has nothing to do with your problem or a fuel pump ground, it get its ground from the ECM, if it was a direct ground the relay would burn, If you want to solve this problem access the fuel pressure regulator and you will see leakage and inspect the injector tube,also check the motor oil and see if it is fuel contaminated.

Posted on Nov 12, 2012


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SOURCE: 1998 ford expedition how to install rear spider gears

I accidentally rotated the spider gears out when putting a new axle seal on a 04' F-150. I didn't have the tool to compress the clutch packs so I removed the differential carrier and took it and the spider gears down to the local Ford dealership and they put them back in for $20.

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2004 chevy cavalier wi'll not start unless I keep my foot on gas. Then it will start but won't stay running until it warms up. While driving it runs fine untill you brare then it stalls out.

Pressing the pedal down, puts in clear flood mode. Any applicable trouble codes? Did you use a gage and check correct fuel pressure, also, see if pressure will hold for a bit, with everything off. If it drops like a rock you have fuel leak. Pull vac line off fuel pressure regulator, where applicable, if fuel runs out, you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. You could have fuel injector leak?
Smell of your crankcase oil dipstick, if it smells like gas, either you don't change your oil and filter very often or fuel leak. There could be other issues? You have to start testing, somewhere.

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If it's stalling out and starts back up with spraying ether in the TB then this tells me it's losing fuel supply. Hook a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail shrader valve and leave it connected but secure it so it doesn't pose any hazards. Then drive it till it stalls out and see if the pressure has dropped off. Sounds like you may have a failing fuel pump, bad wiring to fuel pump, or failing fuel pump relay that is causing it to work intermediately.

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When the outside temperature has been above 90 degrees, and with the air running, my 1995 econoline 150 conversion van, 5.0 engine, has stalled out. on the first instance, i put the van in neutral and...

I chased a similar problem for several years. Stalled, got towed no problem found. The thing would heal and then fail at random on hot days. After checking everything electrical, fuel pump pressure etc, nothing could be found and I could not duplicate the problem. One day after being towed to a shop again, van started and would not fail but this time I had the mechanic put a clear by pass line along with a pressure gauge and I monitored the flow for about forty five minutes. Suddenly I started to see a stream of air bubbles and the pressure began to drop until the engine shut off. It was the FUEL PUMP all along and no one was able to determine that w/ all the test equipment. Went to Kragen Auto, now Oriely's and got a fuel pump. Had the shop drop the tank and install it. Have never had a problem again. Don't worry about what the mechanics tell you that it is not. Change the fuel pump

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When do you change the fluid in the rear differencial. I was told by a mechanic that the rear differencial fluid was low and had metal shavings in it, and that the fluid needed to be changed and that it...

I'd say yes. The differential fluid is often overlooked by oil change technicians, even though it's something that should be topped off periodically.

It probably would cost more than that to repair it once it wears out.
Axle Housing Assembly Removal & Installation To Remove:
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  2. Drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing.
  3. Remove the rear axle assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the brake caliper brackets from the rear hubs.
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  6. Remove the rear axle shafts from the vehicle.
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  8. Remove the brake backing plates from the rear hubs.
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  3. Install the rear differential assembly into the vehicle.
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I think that changing the fluid would take about an hour, and depending on the garage, and the labor rate, that they might elect to take the rear cover off of the differential, and drain it that way and replace the fluid once it was put back on. He could inspect the gears while the cover was off and tell you how bad it was.'

Do you hear any clunking or gear mesh noises from the rear when putting it in gear or running the vehicle?

Some mechanics would simply top off the fluid and wait until it wears out, which could be several thousand miles in the future.

Use gear oil for it of the recommended viscosity in the service manual.

Generally thicker than motor oil.

So, adding fluid would cost only the amount of the fluid plus some labor.
A bottle of fluid might cost $9.99 or so depending on where you get it.

You might be able to do this yourself if you crawl under there, remove the fill plug at the top, and just add gear oil. If there isn't enough room you might drive it up on some ramps and then crawl under there.

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