Question about Mitsubishi L200

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Mitubishi l200 when starts it revs madly

You start it and revs i took of the throttle sensor made no differance it idles fast for two minutes ten goes mad

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Check the condition of the idle control valve. This is the favorite culprit of poor idling conditions.

Posted on Nov 07, 2012


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SOURCE: mercedes 190e 2.6 auto,starts fine


Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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SOURCE: 88 dodge dakota has rough idle and stalls at slow down.

Change/thoroughly clean the idle control solenoid. It may be sticking and causing rough idling.
Cleaning it is unlikely to be more than a short-term solution.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: starting and idle

Brianellwood: Z car? From the lingo, you don't sound like you are from or are in the USA. From my experience with Nissan/Datsun since 1968 including the U.S.V.I, where I also had been in the British West Indies, the Blue Bird, if my schooling and recall are correct, is a Datsun 510 with an L-16 engine in it. (It's a bomb proof motor!) It uses a 2 barrel Hatchi down draft carburetor with a vacuum actuated secondary and an electric choke which get it's power supply when the charging system is charging. Most of them had a 110 main jet and a 150 secondary jet.. These carburetors were very simple to service on the car and well engineered in general.
The design is such that when the engine is cold, the choke closed, which in turn will mechanically raise the idle speed to about 1,000-1,200 RPM. Depending on how cold it is, will depend on how quickly the engine will return to a normal idle. It does require depressing the gas pedal in order to release the tension from the fast idle cam spring as the choke heats up. There is a component called a "CHOKE BRAKE" which is designed to keep the choke from opening prematurely when cold when the throttle is blipped.
The normal idle for this engine is 7- 800 RPM. There were some factory options with SU's but they were never brought into the USA. I have installed many SU intake manifolds and 45mm SU's and SSS cams. The 510's did not have electronic ignitions, they used points. The "DWELL" angle is between 49 and 55 degrees.
It's been years since I worked on one of these cars, but I believe the ignition timing was 12 degrees BTDC @700RPM for most of the cars in that time frame with that engine. The total timing with mechanical and vacuum advance was 38 degrees. (I still own a 1970 Datsun 521 pick up which I bought NEW for a dollar a pound in St. Croix USVI! $2,158.00 pea green with AM radio, heater and white wall tires).
It takes more fuel to run a cold motor than a warm one. However, if the engine is not in proper tune, it will not perform well no matter if the carburetor were new out of the box. The older systems were simple to work on but more prone to failures. Points wear out from running on the distributor cam and arcing. This in turn changes the time in which the coil is triggered and when it fires the spark plugs.
The ignition coils back then were much lower energy: 20,000 volts VS 60,000 + in today's standards. Stay away from cheap parts!
Plug wires made by NGK are good quality. The original made by Yazaki or Sumitomo are excellent. I have not seen much better in the after market which would surpass their quality. Points made by Hatachi or Daichi as well as the condenser , cap and rotors. Spark plugs by NGK (BPR6ES11) is the best or an equivalent in Denso spark plugs. I use Denso plugs in my Nissan road race cars because they don't blister or burn up.
Additionally, the valve clearances on this engine must be set roughly at 12,000 mile intervals. I set my valves "HOT" and set the exhaust first and intake second. I set the valves by firing order and set the clearances with the cam lobes pointed at 12:00 always to insure I am at the bottom of the base circle of the cam, thus insuring near perfect clearances. Even though the specifications are .10 intake hot and .12 exhaust hot, I set them .09 intake and .11 exhaust. To insure my accuracy in setting the valves and not to have set them too tight, I use an exhaust gasses analysis, checking HC's. They should be below 300 PPM.
I hope I might have shed some light on the subject. There has always been a soft spot in my heart for the older Datsun 510's, 1200's and other older Datsun's and Toyota's
I took a pot shot at this question because I am not quite sure what it is you are seeking an answer for. I hope some of what I have said has some value for you. >>>>>>>>mybunkey

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 3640 Answers

SOURCE: saab 9-5 need to give alittle throttle for cold engine start

the idle air control valve may be bad or just needs cleaned out. idle air control valve acts the same as a choke. if it is messing up it will cause engine not to run right.

Posted on Jan 27, 2010

SOURCE: 98 Chevrolet Silverado runs rough at half throttle and past.

try removing the EGR valve and clean inside of it and manifold

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

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Car cutting out from cold start

You need a 10 mil and 8 mil spanner, carb cleaner and mabie some wd40.
Remove the big hose which goes from the throttle body to the air filter housing. Under the throttle body there is a idle control valve, unplug it, spray some wd40 on the 8mil bolts and take them off. Clean the idle control valve and housing and anywhere else which looks dirty, dry it with a lint free cloth and then put everything back on.
remove the battery negative terminal and leave it off for 30 minutes, this will reset the ecu to factory settings.

On the top of the throttle body there is a black circular rubber screw cover, take that off and there should be a plastic screw.

Connect your battery and start your engine, unscrew the idle speed control (plastic screw) so it revs at 2000rpm cold. When the temp needle reached the middle so it revs at 1000rpm hot.

This should solve the problem, if you drive around and find that you in 4th gear, with your foot off the accelerator and the idle is going up and down madly then the idle control valve is worn out and it needs replacing. Cost around £125 on ebay.

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