1992 240 will not start - drove it with OD off for a week or so
My overdrive just turned off while driving one day, and it took me a week to determine that a fuse had blown (when the rear defroster light did not come on). I don't do a lot of driving, but was on the interstate while the OD was off and my engine started shuddering - I barely made it home. It felt like it would die at any second - but didn't. I then didn't drive it for a day, and now it will not start. It will try, (not a starter issue), but never catch. Did I damage the engine? I'm off to look @ 3,5,7 in the fuse box and see if there are any hoses disconnected... I'm afraid it might never start again!! I've had this car for 5 years and love it, but there is a slow oil leak in the manifold (something I opted out of fixing due to cost and with the encouragement of my mechanic) and I think it might have been too much...
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My Econoline 250 with 4.2 lost fluid from hose leak, fixed leak everything was normal for 3 days till I drove it on highway. When it went into overdrive lost forward power. Turned off OD and did ok for a while. Lost forward gears slowly, put in fluid, hard to tell when full. Reverse is fine but have to rev up engine to get forward to engage, then everything is fine at lights and such till take out of drive, then have to rev engine to about 2500rpm to engage drive. Help?
Sounds like the same problem I have been having with my 2002 Sedona for the past 6 or 8 months. It would run OK for several days, weeks, or months, then just quit. If I let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, it would restart and run fine for at least the rest of that day. About 2 weeks ago, I was fortunate that it happened when someone was with me, so I was able to determine that it was not getting any spark. Since then the problem has gotten worse and more frequent - it was happening almost every day and would take over 1/2 an hour before it would start again. This morning was the last straw. I drove for about 4 miles and it quit. Took 1 hour and 10 minutes before it would restart. Drove another 2 miles and did it again. This time it took 1 hour 35 minutes before restart. After 1 more mile, it quit again. Took 2 hours, this time. Made it another mile and BAM! - did it again. My bro towed me home. I determined that it is most likely NOT the crankshaft position sensor, because 99% of the time they either work, or they don't. Very rarely does it cause in intermittant problem. The most likely suspect is the engine computer. That was always a likely culpret when I worked on GM cars. Today I installed a $50 junk yard engine control computer. I am crossing my fingers! I will know on Thursday, as I have a 50 mile trip to make. I will post again on Thursday, to let you all know.
on the end of the lever that puts the car in gear is a button. This controls whether the overdrive is on or off. When overdrive is "off" a light comes on with OD showing on the dash. If the light is "off" then you are in overdrive. so when the light comes on push the button in the shifter handle. if you tow something you want the light to come back on "deactivating the overdrive" and you should see the dash light. You may just have a burnt out light bulb in the dash for this.
sound to me like it maybe a faulty sensor in the transmission. take your car to someone with an ODB reader and see if a transmission fault is indicated. you may have to take your car to a transmission shop.
If the shift lever is floppy and not shifting, drop the steering column so the steering wheel is resting
on the seat. you will see on the shift linkage, a pot metal casting....kind of tube shaped, about
a foot long. It is mounted to the top of the steering column. check for a fatigue fracture on that tube.
if you find that it is broken, it's not too bad a job to remove it. will need a screwdriver with
torx head bits, and a 1x4 inch socket.
I am rather certain that your issue will be fixed by the replacement of your thermostat. Why?
You have stated the the temp gauge is lower than half at times...this leads me to believe that your thermostat is sticking open slightly...The science here is the fact that the OD is prevented from activating until the coolant temperature reaches 177 degrees F. This is controlled by the temperature sensor in the cooling system, and is part of the emissions package. It is not adjustable. The OD is prevented when the coolant is below 177 to reduce possible hydrocarbon spikes (emissions) at the tailpipe. In short, cool engine temps lead to high emissions, especially when the vehicle has engaged OD. Replace the thermostat, and you might as well replace the coolant at the same time. I am pretty sure this will cure your issue. The graciousness of a FixYa rating would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for choosing FixYa!
It is not suggested strip and twist wires. Better take it to an authorized service station to check what causes the problem.Is it OVERDRIVE SWITCH or CRUISE CONTROL MODULE faulty?
Over drive switch has three points. (5 to 4 selects "ON" or 5 to 6 selects "OFF").
Right click on following schematic, "save picture as" to a location in your PC so you have a ZOOM IN view.
O/D light flashing is computer indicating an issue with the transmission -no surprise. Make sure the transmission fluid is still good (dosn't smell burnt, right level). Slipping could be the TCC (torque Converter clutch) - not a cheap part - but would only really slip in 4th gear (above 40 mph). Slipping before that could be numerous things in the trans (low fluid pressure, torque converter issues).
I would be tempted to replace the fluid anyhow, but there is a chance an expensive issue is starting to arise - and replacing the fluid on a failing transmission could cause it to fail 100% (or can fix it nearly 100%). These can be touchy transmissions, too much DIY without the right diagnostic tools can be bad. Not what you wanted to hear, and not an expert, but have had some expertise with these.hope that helps.