Question about Cars & Trucks
Locate the cylinder on the gearbox bell housing. Clamp the flexible fluid feed hose to the slave cylinder, reasonably close to the cylinder. Disconnect the feed pipe to the cylinder, remove the cylinder's location bolts, and remove cylinder. Reverse process for reinstallation.
Once installed, open up the cylinder's bleed nipple, attach rubber hose (preferably clear type) and feed into a clear bottle. Open the master cylinder's reservoir cap and brim with clean fluid (usually brake fluid DOT 4 will be fine, unless stated otherwise on the cap)
Now it's easier if you have help pumping the clutch pedal as you will have to depress the pedal and clamp the bleed nipple, raise the pedal. Depress the pedal and open the nipple. Close the nipple and release the pedal. Keep repeating this procedure whilst continually topping up the reservoir and until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple is clean and free from any air bubbles.
On the final depression of the pedal, lock the bleed nipple, release the pedal and then pump it a few times and judge the feel and travel of the pedal.
If the pedal is still only close to the floor when operating the clutch, then you likely still have some air in the system and should repeat the above steps.
If adequate pressure is available and the clutch operates well, then your job is done.
Be aware that brake fluid eats into paint and many types of plastics over time, so once you are done, then rinse any areas with water only, which came into contact with any spilled fluid.
Tada! You've finished! Road test the vehicle to be sure of a good successful job. Recheck the fluid level after a few hours driving to make sure you haven't any leaks and aren't loosing fluid.
Posted on Nov 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
work it back and forth with your hand and you will get pedal after a while then bleed like you would brakes get help so one can pump and the other can bleed
Posted on May 24, 2009
SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
Slave cylinder should be on the left side of the bellhousing (follow the line from the clutch master if necessary) If you don't see fluid but you have lost some, also check where the rod from the pedal goes through the firewall to the master...they often leak there and will not drip on the ground.
Posted on May 30, 2009
dear friend-the spring and valve came from the back where the bolt goes in . it is a compensating valve.you put it back valve first then spring or you can leave it out.it makes no differense
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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