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The timing mark on the crankshaft gear will line up with mark on oil pump. The timing mark on the left side for the cam gear will be a notch on the alternator bracket and on the right side the cam gear will line up with mark on timing belt cover (inner). Hope this will help you.
You r going 2 need a book so u can get everything lined up.you will need 2 make sure the #1 cylinder is on compression then line everything up like the book shows.The best thing u could is go to DYI CHILTON.COM. $ 20.00 a year
This engine configuration probably uses an adjustable idler bearing and wheel assembly to apply tension to the serpentine belt that drives almost all the accessories. You'll need to loosen, (DO NOT REMOVE!) the hub bolt, then turn the adjusting bolt behind the wheel to provide the slack you need.
Or, did you mean the timing belt? That one has an oil-filled tensioner that requires clamp compression to collapse down the right clearance. Did that help? Let us know...accordianman
Turns out it was the water pump. The plastic impeller on the inside had broken in half- split almost right down the middle. there was just enough of the impeller remaining to attach to the shaft and pump water. Apparently, it was pumping enough to keep the temp under control. So, I never noticed it overheating. The piece that had broken off had gotten lodged in a recessed area inside the pump housing. The ticking noise was being generated as the intact half of the impeller rotated and hit the broken off half.
I narrowed down the problem by removing the belt and cranking the engine temporarily. With the belt off and the pump not turning, the sound was gone. I could spin the pump pulley by hand and faintly hear the noise.
A new pump cost me $35 and took about two and a half hours to replace.