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Re: replacing a 1997 4 L petrol a/c radiator
If you are looking at replacing the "a/c radiator (called the condenser), It's a straightforeward '" take out, put in" operation. You need to remove the regular radiator first. Use flair nut wrenches when removing any steel or aluminium lines. on any lines that are "free standing" Use two wrenches... one to keep tube on component from twisting, one to remove feed line. Be aware that on a/c components, there is often residual freon in line still under pressure. Protect eyes when removing any lines. System will need to be evacuated & recharged after work is complete.Pay attention to ends of any lines removed. often there are small "o" rings which must be replaced. If only removing radiator, (for cooling system) just remove & replace. (trans lines are removed with flair nut wrenches as well)
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Hi Paul, I cannot think of anything which would have interfered with the fuel line while fitting the caliper or pads. The fuel filter is fitted in the engine compartment against the firewall fairly low down. You may like to check and possibly replace it as sometimes the connections do leak. The other areas of concern are the seals fitted to the top and bottom of each injector, the feed connection into the fuel rail, and the return pipe to the tank. Make an inspection of all flexible pipes and joints, taking special note of all banjo bolt connections, making sure that all gasket washers are sealing correctly all the way to the tank. Regards John
1 make shore you have the correct grade AUTO transmission oil.2 fit an external oil cooler. This can be done two ways. no1 add it into the system by cutting the oil return hose from radiator to the gear box and install the cooler or. no2 completely disconnect the radiator and install the external cooler independently.either way you will need oil cooler 2 lengths of transmission hose & 4 hose clamps. In Australia it comes as a kit with all clamps & hoses cost depends on size small medium or large cooler. when fitting I found it best to cut the pipes in the space between the radiator & the motor gives you more room to work just have to use longer bits of hose. Hope this helps. sick51
Radiators on automatics have a separate reservoir for transm. fluid cooling purposes. Didn't you remove the transm. fluid cooling lines from the radiator-a feed line to the radiator and a return line from radiator to the transmission? They are small steel lines that connect on the end of the radiator.
If you removed an old radiator and pipes, then fit according to those.
If the old rad and pipes are missing, then first fit the radiator to the vehicle, and then offer up each pipe to the vehicle and see which route is best suited to each pipe, depending on the length and angle of it.
The transmission cooler lines are now (thanks to GM), make your own. I know that your fittings are tapered, and you may wonder how to do so, but the dealer sells adapter fittings, that you can replace in your trans, and radiator, allowing you to use standard brake tubing. Thanks...
Make sure you don not run low on transmission fluid in your transmission. Low transmission fluid will cost you a new transmission. You have the transmission line that connects to the upper passenger side or the radiator and the lower passenger side of the radiator. Determine which line has gone bad and you can buy a rubber transmission line hose at most Auto Parts store like Parts Source. Cut off out the section with a pipe cutter that has corroded through and replace with the transmission hose. Make sure you tell them it's a transmission line hose your looking for and don't use any other hose and double clamp with a compression clamps at ether end. If it's the connection at the radiator that has gone bad, replace that end and do that same as you would to sectioning off the the corroded line and try not to have more then 3 inches of repaired section. What ever you do, do not add any stop leak, this will create problems with the shift solenoids and check valves in your valve body in the transmission causing a transmission replacement soon after adding. Good luck and keep me posted.
IT might be either in the boot on top of tank OR on the rear of tank,
If on rear then drain at least 1/2 the tank out before undoing the clip ring which turns to the l/h/ to undo use a small piece of copper or brass or even good piece of timber but not steel ..
Undo and take out pump and filter To check pump wipe clean and dry and let it dry out for about 1/2 hr before fitting battery power to it for checking and if dont sound good straight away or the filter is dirty then new one is the answer..
REPLACE IT in the reverse of removal and make sure that the petrol pipes are fitted tight.
When you take the pipes off the back of pump then fit something in pipes to stop the loss of petrol .
YOU NEED TO TAKE IT OUT FROM THE BOTTOM REMOVE PLASTIC SHROUD THEN DRIAN AND PULL LOWER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR AND THE REST IS PRETTY SELF EXPLANATORY MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CLIPS FOR THE WIRRING BEFORE YOU EVEN START