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Voltage meter reads zero with no dash lights working but on and engine has high rpm

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And you feel the indications are not correct? If so you need to remove the cluster from the truck and have it rebuilt. Google "GM cluster repairs" and lots of places will come up, take your choice by cost and speed of repair.

Posted on Nov 08, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: nothing works on dash board no lights or rpm speed odometer

check the fuses?

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 1986 Answers

SOURCE: 98 expedition battery light comes on with increase of rpm

There may be no loss of voltage, but is there a surge of voltage?

As for the battery itself when tested, it should read 12-12.5Volts across the
leads when the car is off. When the car is running, the battery should be reading 13-14Volts across the leads, anything lower means the alternator is not charging your battery, anything higher means the alternator is over charging and damaging your battery.

Another cause for the battery light could be your ECU has detected an error

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks, haven't seen a alternator discharge light go on and off, normally it's either worked or didn't"

  • 583 Answers

SOURCE: Will not charge

you will get some funny answers from some of these "experts " The symptoms suggest to me with out much doubt that the regulator is not doing its job correctly ,consistently.Iwould take it to an AUTO ELECTRICIAN and get it tested in situ.... there is only 4 things it can be , wireing ---battery---alternator-----regulator and of those the reg. is the only one that chops and changes. it will cost little for a sparky to check the reg ,. AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE OUTCOME

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

SOURCE: engine stops after rpm meter drops at once to zero

The fact that the engine dies without warning and that the effect is intermittent indicates that the problem is electrical and that it is most likely a break of some kind. Start from the top and look at the main fuse and the main relay and then the fuel pump relay (sometimes the two are on the same board in the same relay unit). Really inspect these thoroughly and check the solder joints, sometimes you can get an annular crack running around a pin and it will not break the circuit until vibration or high temperature causes the crack to open briefly. When you switch the car on these relays should give a healthy click. Most electrical problems can be found with a wiggle or a tap; wiggle the wires, that is, and tap the device they connect to. A short in the MAF (air density unit) should not necessarily cause the engine to die but maybe to change its idling characteristics. Unplug it whilst the engine is running to see its effect, in fact most devices may be unplugged to check their effect without doing any long term harm. Remove any foam that could interfere with its operation. Spray clean it with electrical spray cleaner (zero residue spray) but do not touch! Do not use carb. cleaner spray as it is too aggressive. 1) Check all the electrical things the ECU takes signals from in order to run the engine: throttle position sensor, idle speed control, Intake air temperature, manifold absolute pressure, engine temperature sensor. crank position sensor, cam position sensor 2) Check electrics, coil (bad to diagnose if intermittent) low tension, high tension distribution, plug leads and plugs, hall effect sensor. 3) Check air: check that all vacuum pipes making any kind of connection with the inlet manifold are air tight with no cracks or loose joints. If you have evaporation emission control make sure that the purge and vent valves close and open when they should. If you have Exhaust gas recirculation check that the valve opens and closes and that all feed ports to it are free and clear of carbon build up. 4) Now check fuel system: pre-pump, main pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, injectors

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

Testimonial: "Most of what you wrote has been done I assumed it also to be electrical fuel pump relay new and checked again and my technician has checked the various other electrical items he also tells me that nex time if it happens again i should unplug the MAF (air density unit) to see waht happens. On the other hand he has tesed the device and is passed the test without problems but it is good to know that a short circuit in teh MAF cannot cause symptomes i have other suggestions are welcome jeroen"

  • 4793 Answers

SOURCE: ... Problem I discovered the

the dash panel has a printed circuit board incorperating the led lights,you will need to replace it.....if you havnt tried turning up the rheostat next to the headlight leveler control please do so..

Posted on Sep 04, 2010

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I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 35004x4 6.7 cummins and every time I hit a bump on the road all the lights on my dash pop up could anyone explain this


Sounds like a classic loose / poor connection issue. This can be a real problem to locate due to the cabling and difficulty seeing up under the dash. You'll need to find the point that is common too ALL affected lamps (be sure to determine if dome / map reading / courtesy / etc. lamps are in the same mix as the dash lights).

Please read the last paragraph FULLY before attempting!

A quick shortcut to solve 1/2 the troubleshooting is the locate a ground wire common to the circuit. It is best to probe w/ a test lamp clipped to 12VDC + and the probe tip to search for a ground in the circuit. One you find a ground, grab a multimeter and set it for DC volts and a range higher than 15 volts. We're looking to see zero volts when you press one probe to ground and the other to the suspected ground wire. If that's what you read, remove the probes from the wire and switch the meter to ohms at the "X1" (or lowest) scale. Touch the probes and adjust (if equipped) for a zero the resistance in Ohms reading - if no adjustment is possible, note the displayed value or needle position - this is the meter's "zero" Ohms value / position. Next, touch one probe to good ground and the other to the wire in question. We're looking for a very low value here. 0 - 4 Ohms (if you were able to zero the meter; or one 0 - 4 ohms higher than you read when trying to zero the meter. Continue probing for voltages and confirming with a resistance check until you find a wire with a low ohm value. If you can't find one, try banging on the dashboard sharply to simulate a bump in the road while watching the meter. If the ohm value drops - you're likely on a ground wire. To be sure - follow it back to either ground or the 12VDC (-) post. If you're certain that the wire in question goes to ground or the 12VDC (-) post - continue. Otherwise, you should stop.

Next, run a NEW wire (the same size or larger as the one you found) from a "good" ground or the (-) post of the battery and connect it to this wire you found. This will provide a new, solid (alternate) path to ground so that the original path doesn't matter if it as a good or lousy connection. The problem should be solved at this point. If you found a very low resistance value and couldn't get it any lower by banging the dash - the problem is likely to be on the 12 + side of the circuit. Start at the variable dimmer switch and work backward if bad - or forward (to the dash) if good.

The *best* and recommended way to do this is by using the vehicle wiring schematic in conjunction with the meter. Vehicle computers change voltages and high speed data buss wiring can play tricks on meters. You do not want to "tie" a data cable that looks like a poor ground to a good ground. Damage to the computer can result and end up costing you significantly more than the original repair cost of a loose wire.

Good luck!

Oct 15, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to fix voltage regulator


The regulator is inside the alternator. Get a new alternator or disassemble the alternator and install a new one. My option is get another alternator.

Feb 08, 2015 | 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Keeps blowing all the lights front dip,main,side and rear, brake,tail lights and indicators


You need to test your alternator for too much voltage. Any digital volt meter that reads DC should work. With the volt meter reading across the battery, run the engine up to about 2000 RPM and check the voltage; it should be about 14.5 volts and never above 15 volts. If the voltage is high, you can cook your battery as well as having your lights burn out quickly.

Jan 31, 2015 | 1994 Ford Fiesta

2 Answers

Can I test an ignition module on an onan engine with a volt, ohm or amp meter?


well sure you can, allthough if you have allready replaced the coil and plug , i can't see why you'd need to , it's the last thing there is to replace , but if youd like to anyway , just ground the black lead of volt meter anywhere on engine thats not painted or rusty , hold red lead on - side of coil (its the one with half the battery voltage on it) and turn engine over slow as possible you should see the volts rise and fall as it turns over , if not the ign module is not working
also i question why does this have a condenser if it has electronic ign ? cant say id ever seen that before .

Sep 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1996 gmc 3500 diesel starts up fine but when i cut it off must wait for it to cool off to start again


Compare cranking speeds cold to warm most diesels require about 375 RPM's cranking to start. NOW possibly a bad starter (dragging) voltage drop (high resistance) in cables. loose or dirty battery cable ends. To test voltage drop requires 2 people one cranking engine other watching volt meter. Place one meter lead on battery cable end and other lead on the other end of cable. Do this to all 4 battery cables. What voltage that can not go through cable will go through meter. So the closest to zero is the best. good readings are .02 volts for connections and .05 volts per foot of cable.

Nov 11, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1990 Chev. Silverado truck. With the headlights off, the brake and turn signal lights work normally. When I turn the headlights on, the brake and tail lights do not work and the turn signals work...


Are you a resident in the north eastern part of US?
Clean the top post of the battery. Check for deform shape on the battery. A battery with incorrect acid / water mix will expand.
Check the voltage at the source.
With engine off it should read 12.6V + 12.6V is min 12.7 and over is healthy.
With the engine running it should read 13.6V + 13.6 is min.
==== Test idle air control valve
Warm up the truck and take a baseline reading on the RPM
Turn on the following item one by on and monitor the rpm. It should rise by 100 to 150 rpm.
A/C,rear defroster and fans radio low beams high beams
The rpm must rise to meet the electrical demand.
Clean and lube the IAC valve at the end of the throttle linage (in the intake manifold)
===== Please do the inspects and let me know the readings via email.

I will follow up the case in the afternoon.

Jan 31, 2011 | Chevrolet C1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

07 chevrolet trailblazer charging problem, When it is above idle charges fine as soon as it drops to idle shows complete discharge. Alt. replaced Battery new, all the obvious,blah,blah,blah. Took it to the...


Hello! There are several possibilities...A Technical Service Bulletin written on July/08 shows the existence of the problem...Yes, they know about it and nothing more...It is TSB# 02-06-03-008D...

The meter in the dash is telling you "complete discharge", correct? When the idle drops are there any other signs...ie...Lights dim for instance...Or is the only indication of a problem the meter?...Lets eliminate the meter itself...There is a blocking diode installed in the instrument cluster that may be defective and actually the discharge is a lie...Using a voltmeter, Read the battery voltage with the engine off...Record reading...Start the engine and at idle take another reading...Voltage should be 1,8 to 2 volts higher...Increase RPM'S...Does the voltage rise or remain the same...Send readings...

The ground strap from the -battery terminal to the engine block/chassis may be corroded or loose causing a voltage drop at low RPM'S...Set scale of meter to X1 ohms...Engine off...Place one probe on the CENTER of the - battery terminal the other on the alternator mounting bracket...Must be zero ohms...Dead short...Send readings...

The Regulated Voltage Control Module is defective and needs to be replaced...Regulated voltage control is new for the Vortec 4.2L and Vortec 5.3L engines. It enhances fuel economy by reducing the load on the engine generated by the alternator...It is located on the center tunnel under the rear seat...Check the connector to see if any pins are bent and that it is properly seated...

guru......saailer

Jan 10, 2011 | 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer

3 Answers

Headlights flickering consistant with engine RPM. also, battery light on dash flickers with RPM


Your alternator is worn or the voltage regulator (usually built into most modern alternators) is failing.

Mar 01, 2010 | 2000 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

Low Beams keep burning out! Sometime both sides. I replaced approx. 6 bulbs in the past 3 months. All other lights are working fine. No short indicated. 2002 Toyota RAV4


Hmm, That is rather whacky.

You'll need 2 (two) people, probably, unless you have a Volt-Ohm meter with really long leads.

Attach VOM (20v range DC across low beam circuit (ex: pull the bulb out and push the probes into the low beam slots). Start vehicle. Note voltage. Should be somewhere between 13.5 and 14.4 Volts DC. (If you read neg voltage, you've got the leads reversed!!!). If too high, voltage regulator may be shot.

Have someone rev the engine to, say, 3500 RPM. Measure voltage at that RPM to see if still in nominal (<14.5 VDC) range. This could also indicate faulty voltage regulator.

return everything to normal.

Oh, one other by-the-by: You're not using those HID look-a-like bulbs sold at auto parts stores, are you? They are notoriously cheap and have notoriously short lives.

Good luck.

Start vehicle, turn on low beams. with Volt-Ohm meter (VOM), m

Mar 05, 2009 | 2002 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Voltage drop test


First, check battery post to cable connection: positive meter lead on battery positive post, negaitve lead on battery's positive cable clamp. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have zero voltage drop. Second, check the positive cable: positve meter lead on positive battery clamp, negative lead on starter terminal connector. A good cable will show a voltage drop of .2 volts or less while cranking. Third, check the starter connection: positive meter lead on positive battery terminal on the solenoid, negative meter lead on actual starter stud. A good connection will have a voltage drop of near zero volts. Now to check the negative side of the circuit. Total drop on the ground side should be .3 volts or less and can be checked by placing positive meter lead on starter housing and negative meter lead on battery ground post. Take your reading while cranking the engine, and be sure your connection at the starter is solid and clean. If total voltage drop on this side of the circuit is excessive, complete testing at all connections in the same fashion as the positive side of the circuit. Check the following: between battery post and clamp (zero voltage drop), cable end at battery to cable end at engine. (.2 volts or less), cable end at engine to engine itself (near zero voltage drop), and finally between starter housing and engine block (.1 volts or less).

To read the entire procedure for all automotive systems read this artile:
http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html

Aug 31, 2008 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

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