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How do I bleed the ABS brakes on a 1998 Chevy Suburban

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Chevy Suburban rear brake fluid does not

if rear wheel drive the combination valve has be held open.you have to have a combination valve depressor tool .you need a scanner to do abs brake functional test.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994

Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.

  1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
  2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
  3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.
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Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid

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Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel

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Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series

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Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
  1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
  2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
  3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
  4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
  1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
  2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
  1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.
  1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
  2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
  3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
  4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.


Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

Posted on Jun 19, 2010

Jay_from_Ma
  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems

Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Good luck!

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

ourhowse
  • 2007 Answers

SOURCE: dashboard brake light stays on, 1990 Suburban

Most likely. Usually what happens to mine, is the wires to the sensors get broken from stones hitting them. i splice them back together and they are good for a while. Or the sensors get dirty.

Posted on May 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ABS light and brake light on, I have a 2002 chevy

when this happens the ABS mod has gone out and needs replaced. It will cast around 1,200 to replace

Posted on May 17, 2009

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1998 CHEVY BLAZER...REPLACE MASTER CYLINDER, BOTH REAR CALIPERS AND ROTORS AND EVEN SCANNED THE ABS SYSTEM....NO PEDAL...hELP!!!


Vic, Because you changed master cylinder air probably got into the ABS modulator. Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of the solenoid valves, if no bleed screw on the modulator, you may need a pressure bleeder and a scan tool to cycle modulator to bleed trapped air. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck. "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
Bleeding ABS Brake Systems
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t980156-discuss1998_blazer_brake_bleed_problem.html
Bleeding ABS Systems

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1 Answer

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Have a look on this link below:
chevy abs bleeding Google Search

In particular a Youtube video:

Bleeding the ABS Brake Control Module On Chevy Using Snap On Solus Ultra
Sometimes it can be a nightmare bleeding the brakes. There seems to be problem after problem or no progress, irrespective of how many times you bleed them. Just a few weeks ago I had the same problem on a 4 litre Jeep.

Have a look on those two links. You obviously know how to bleed brakes and will pick up a tip or two online.

I was in the same position as you - hard pedal until start up after a brake overhaul. I wouldn't like to think how many times I bled the braking system everywhere and nothing worked. Eventually on a Jeep forum somebody suggested changing the brake compensator valve. I did .. and the brakes worked perfectly.

Read a few websites first. You'll het there in the end.

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Why were the brake lines replaced?

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if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

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1 Answer

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