Question about 1999 Volkswagen Beetle

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No brake pressure on a 99 beetle

I bleed the brakes on my wifes beetle 99 with the car running and have no brake pressure.After bleeding 1 liter of fluid. there is pressure when the car is not running.

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Check brake booster for leaks or the pad or disk wear

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What do the capped lines on the ehcu brother in law(so called mech.) told me that they were buttons that you had to hold in while bleeding the unit but when my buddy and me went to do...

Bleeder screws , If you haven't replaced the unit you don't need to do anything with them . Don't need to have the vehicle running , just bleed the brakes normally . If you have replaced the Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit you need a factory scan tool to cycle the unit solenoids
• Use the two-person bleed procedure under the following conditions:
- Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
- Air is trapped in the valve body
• Do not drive the vehicle until the brake pedal feels firm.
• Do not reuse brake fluid that is used during bleeding.
• Use the vacuum, the pressure and the gravity bleeding procedures only for base brake bleeding.
Raise the vehicle in order to access the system bleed screws.
Bleed the system at the right rear wheel first.
Install a clear hose on the bleed screw.
Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean DOT 3 brake fluid.
Open the bleed screw 1/2 to one full turn.
Slowly depress the brake pedal. While the pedal is depressed to its full extent, tighten the bleed screw.
Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15 seconds for the master cylinder pistons to return to the home position.
Repeat the previous steps for the remaining wheels. The brake fluid which is present at each bleed screw should be clean and free of air.
This procedure may use more than a pint of fluid per wheel. Check the master cylinder fluid level every four to six strokes of the brake pedal in order to avoid running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure. Release the brake pedal between each test.
Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. This will remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Evaluate the feel of the brake pedal before attempting to drive the vehicle.
Bleed the system as many times as necessary in order to obtain the appropriate feel of the pedal.

Apr 26, 2017 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Brake and e brake warning lights stay on happen when i blew a brake line.

If brakes are mushy then you still have air in the lines.Did you bleed all 4 wheels?have wife push brake pedal down once and hold then bleed hold down one and bleed and so on if this has a quick takeup master cylinder pumping 3 or 4 times then bleed wont work

Jun 14, 2012 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i bleed the brakes on a 99 ford expedition?

on the brake calipers ther is a bleeder screw. It looks like a grease fitting.1) fill brake fluid 2) have a helper pump the brake pedal ( vehicle not running ) 6 - 8 times to the floor and release then press pedal to the floor and hold with foot pressure pressing down. 3) at this time loosen the bleeder valve and the pressure and air will release,( do not allow brake pedal to release or come up, continue to hold to the floor ! ) after pressure and any noticeable air bubbles and no more fluid comes out then this is the time to tighten or (close ) the bleeder screw. 4) continue this process untill no visable air bubbles are present, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CHECK THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AFTER TWO BLEEDINGS AND FILL AS NECESSARY ! 5) Continue the procedure on the opposite side. Do the two front wheels and the rear wheels as a pair as the brake system is a two part system, FRONT & REAR

Jan 17, 2011 | 1999 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Nissan 1400 champ front brakes binding, brake paddle stays high.

This indicates that you have air in the brake system or something isn't mounted properly. You'll need to inspect to see if there is anything not properly mounted, I'll deal with the brake bleeding:

You will need to bleed the brakes from the right rear first, then the left rear, right front, then left front brake, all without letting the brake Master Cylinder resivoir from getting low while doing the bleeding.

You may even want to start with the master cylinder to make sure it's bled properly by loosening the lines there first, bleeding them & then continuing to the system. Use the guide below for best results.

Bleeding brakes properly:
1. 2 people are required to do this properly, forget one man bleeders, they do work, but don't talk back or identify problems as they can't see what's happening. As a safety feature it's good to have another person nearby when someone is getting underneath a vehicle. Even my wife has had to do the pedal pushing in my household when I didn't have an assistant and needed to bleed either a brake system, or a clutch system.

2. Never let the fluid go beneath half way down when bleeding the brakes.

3. When adding fluid to the master cylinder, use a funnel to allow the fluid to run down the side into the cylinder, or use a syringe to prevent air from entering the fluid as you pour it.

4. Always pump the brakes slowly, release them slowly. Fast pedal action causes the fluid to rise into the air, allowing air to enter the system.

5. Pressurize the system by pumping repeatedly until the pedal is as firm as it will get, continue to hold that pedal down until the person bleeding the brakes, has released the air by loosening the bleeder valve, then make sure the line is tightened BEFORE releasing the brake pedal slowly. Pump the pedal again to build pressure, & bleed the brake again the same way until air stops coming out & only good fluid is seen. Proceed to the next farthest line.

If done this way, the brakes will be properly bled and if there are no leaks, the system should work properly. If you identify a leak, repair and start over.

good luck

Dec 27, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

I have power to my fuses and my running lights work but i cant get my brake lights to come on.this is for a 1970 vw baja

there is a pressure switch fitted to the brake master clylinder, 1st try taking the connectors off and putting the wires together, (with ign on) if that works switch is u/s, try a full bleed of the brakes and see if its just **** in the m/cly, if that fails a new switch is needed, but a full bleed is required if you take the switch out.

Dec 05, 2009 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

2002 VW Beetle turbo need to blled clutch

bleeding the clutch is basicly the same as bleeding brakes only differance being that the first couple bleeds you may need to reach down and manually make pedal return. other than that same as brakes and the bleeder screw should be right on the slave cylinder.

Mar 27, 2009 | 2002 Volkswagen Beetle Turbo S

2 Answers

1978 VW super bettle brake problem

Sounds like u r ready to drop the beetle off a cliff. U seem to be doing everything that should give u a firm pedal. 1st- I've never done brakes on a 78 beetle, but have done many brake jobs on others, so in general here are some possibilities: A couple of things, did u bench bleed the master cylinder? (put in a vise, fill w/ brake fluid, using screwdriver, pump piston to remove air). Although u don't have to do this, it saves time trying to get the air out of the system. Did u bleed the brakes starting w/ the farthest from the master cylinder, 'til all air out, then to next farthest away, etc til u do closest brake cylinder last? Made sure the master cyl. never ran down while bleeding and sucked in air? Does your 78 have power brakes? If yes, beetle was running while u bled brakes? Bleeding procedure: Have helper pump pedal approx. half way to floor, 3 pumps, on 3rd pump, hold it half way down, while u open bleeder, when flow decreases from bleeder, close bleeder, then helper can let foot off of pedal and pump 3x again, repeat til fluid shows no air. You probably know all this, just hoping u are doing something minor wrong, and this could help. Individual wheel cylinders aren't leaking? Let me know if this helps at all, if not, I'll try to come up w/ something else. Stay away from the cliff.

Oct 24, 2008 | 1998 Volkswagen Beetle

2 Answers

I need to set the brakes on my vw beetle. I pump up to 3 or 4 times before my brakes take. Please assist me

Sounds like air in the hydraulic system.

On each brake cylinder there is a bleed screw with a pipe nipple on it. Buy fresh brake fluid for the specification of the vehicle (Dot3 or Dot4), and an EasyBleed kit. Attatch easybleed pipe to each bleed nipple in turn, and slacken it off 1/2 a turn. -put the other end in a large jam jar.
Once you have undone one bleed nipple, top up brake reservoir to maximum, and pump foot pedal twice - re top up and repeat.
Tighten up bleed nipple, and move on to another untill complete.

If this does not solve the problem, check the rear brakes for automatic adjusters. Sometimes they sieze- or bend.
If defective - reoplace as a kit on both sides. Do not just replace one. All brake work should be completed as axle pairs.

Hope this helps.

Jun 13, 2008 | 1998 Volkswagen Beetle

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