Question about 2006 Honda Odyssey
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
open the rear hatch. Between the tail light housing and the rear hatch opening there is a trim strip with two flush fitted flap doors. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into the small slot on the tail light side of the flap. Pry gently inboard and the small flap will open (the hinge side of the flap is on the side of the rear hatch opening.) Now you can remove the screws that hold the tail lamp assembly in place. Finally, there is still a "spear point" clip that fits into a socket near the front outboard corner of the assembly. Gently pry with a tape wrapped screwdriver (avoids scratches) and force the assembly straight back. The clip should release and free the assembly so you can change the bulb(s).
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
It should be your brake light switch. There is a little plate welded to the arm of the pedal that has a hole with a rubber stopper. The rubber stopper is most likely missing, or damaged. You should be able to take a flashlight and see the plate and the switch. If the hole is plugged up, you will need the brake light switch, if not, replace the plug.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Check your batt & cables & numerous ground connections. Clean and tighten all- even if they look OK put a wrench to them and give a twist to tighten them.
You have 2 fuse panels- one under the dash and the other over the passenger side firewall. I would start by removing each fuse one at a time, inspecting each fuse visually and with a continuity (ohms) tester. Then take a pink pearl eraser and clean the wafer tips of each fuse before replacing them to the same place you removed the fuse. If you find a burnt fuse replace it WITH THE EXACT SAME AMP RATED FUSE (making a note of the circuit it is for)- likewise if any fuse fails the continuity test.
If you have good grounds and clean connections to the positive (don't forget to check the alternator plugs) and all your fuses are clean and in good working order then the next thing to check for are the relays and the ignition switch
Don't just start taking the steering column apart to get to the switch, however, because you will have to disengage the airbag deployment circuit before fooling around in there. Your Haynes or Honda shop manual should walk you through that.
In addition there are relays that click in the firewall fuseblock under the hood. Check your manuals for procedure to test these as they relate to ignition and or starting circuits and may be your trouble.
If you hear clicks at the relay when turning the ignition on- without starting- then these are probably OK and so is your ignition switch- at least for the ignition only setting.
Another problem I've had with my old Civic is that the interlocks get a little squirrely from time to time. Make sure you have your foot on the brake, your trans in park or neutral, etc. If you have an auto transmission there is a slot to release the shift lever- stick your key in it and run the shifter through all the gears a couple times. Sometimes I have to yank the steering wheel back and forth hard to get the ignition switch to fully engage or to even turn. This is what I do when I get nothing and hear no initial clicks or when my key won't turn. Every once in a while it just plays dead, but unjamming the interlock devices always brings it back for me. I have over 120k miles, but this has happened every once in a blue moon since it was new.
Good Luck, let me know how it goes. If this fixes ya then please rate this solution. If not, then post an update of your results and findings and we'll get deeper into it.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
It's the neutral safety switch. Have your mechanic adjust it, or replace it if it's bad. For now try starting it in neutral instead of park or even try pushing the shifter up all the way (in park) while you turn the key.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
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