Question about Volkswagen Cars & Trucks
I have brand new brake discs and pads, the car doesn't have leeks on the brake lines, I turn on the engine and the brake pedal become to soft, for a stop I have to press the pedal all the way down to the end, what is happening
Not sure if you have done all this.
BRAKE BOOSTER INSPECTION
1. With the engine stopped, Depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty
2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or the check valve is faulty
1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty
2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.
Check valve test:
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster.
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be a vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.
Posted on Nov 06, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is a special tool required to bleed the brakes, it plugs into the ABS hydraulic control under the hood and holds the ABS valves open to remove the trapped air during bleeding, u will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, they are most likely the only ones that will have this special too, but u can try an outside shop, I am sure Snap on tools makes this tool in the aftermarket tool catagory..
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
Might check around the big black round muffin shaped chamber adjacent to the master cylinder for a loose vacuum hose or crack therin; the hissing sound seems likely to be the air rushing in as you loose the vacuum that supplies the power to assist your braking effort (power brakes)---as this goes, so goes your peddle until it reaches the actual piston pushing the brake fluid (which should be firm like with non-power brakes).
...maybe have an assistant push on the peddle while you listen with a piece of hose or a stethescope to find the leak (or I suppose the power unit diaphragm could be shot/leaking--hence replacement), but since you said after bumpy road etc, one could hope for a simple dislodged vacuum hose or fixable crack.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
do u feel the vibration in the steering wheel or in the seat,i bet the most vibration was coming out of the front brakes and a little out of the rear brakes,u might want to change the rear brakes if the vibration is still annoying,also were the front wheels torqued to spec when installed?? if not u might end up with warped front brakes again,hope this helped
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
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