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Fuses blow because there is an overload on the system. If the fuse blows when you step on the brakes then there may be a short in the wiring from the brake light switch to the lights, abs module or turn signal switch. If the fuse blows when you turn the key on then there is likely a short in the wiring to the brake light switch. Basically you will need a wiring schematic to check the wires at the switch and at each of the loads. Also verify that the fuse is supposed to be a 10 amp fuse. Hope this helps
you have a short in one of the light sockets or a worn wire from the wiring harness. could be the flasher assembly. are the turn signals different bulbs from the brake lights? Does using the brakes blow the fuse? (Rear lights or brake light switch on brake pedal). left or right turn signal blowing the fuse will tell which side has the short. 4 ways only, replace the relay.
Did you check fuse? Reference owners guide. If you can check for voltage at fue, stick paper clip in fus slot (red, positive lead) negative lead to chasis. REPLCACE ALL LIGHT BULBS AT ONCE then have some one push brake while you hold brake bulb in your and watch to if it blows, if not turn key to on flip turn signal see what happens let me know what you see, Good luck
The ground wiring on newer vehicles is a little complicated. Older cars, the ground would have been to the body around the tail-lights, but these have a ground wire in the harness and is connected to the turn-signal switch, and other sources. I don't think you have a ground problem. Does the fuse blow as soon as you press it into the fuse-block, or when you step on the brake? I believe you have a dead short somewhere, possibly a pinched turn-signal wire close to the tail-light assembly. Brake lights work through the turn-signal wires from the turn-signal switch on the steering column. That's how you can have one side blinking for turn while the other side stays on for brake. I'm kind of shooting in the dark here because I don't know what all you've done. If you replaced the turn-signal switch in the steering column, you may have pinched a wire or something there. Another thing, if the fuse doesn't blow as soon as you press it in, will both turn-signals work as long as you don't press on the brake? If you can provide a little more information, I might be able to help you more. One last thing....Have you replaced tail-light/turn-signal bulbs? If so, be sure you used the right bulb. You should only have two bulbs, one for back-up lights and one 1157-type combination for tail-lights and turn-signals. I have seen people use a single contact (1056) bulb in place of a 1157, which creates a short from brake/turn-signal back into the tail-light circuit. I do have a 1994 Dodge Dakota.
Not easy to diagnose. Most probable cause is an intermittent short in the power wiring between the hazard module under the dash and the brake and center stop lights, or a problem with either that module or brake light switch on the pedal. I would start by inspecting the socket wiring and interior of the sockets on the rear light modules.
If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.
Sounds like a brake lamp switch or fuse.
Check all fuses electrically, with a test probe you can purchase from any auto parts store. Go through each fuse with the probe touching the end or tip of the fuse after clipping the lead on the probe to a good ground. If the probe lights up at both ends of the fuse, the fuse is sound, if it only lights up at one end then replace that fuse and if the probe does not light up at all, that fuse is not active so turn on the ignition but dont start the motor.
The brake lamp switch is attached to the brake pedal. It may have a single wire or several. All the switch does is connect the brake lamp circuit to an active supply rail so, The switch should have one active wire and the other wire should become active when the pedal is pressed. If it does not, replace the switch. If it does, then you may have two blown bulbs in the rear lamps or a damaged wiring harness to the rear lamps and you should seek the advice of a qualified person. Start with the fuses, then the switch, then the bulbs..and remember, you may have more then one fuse panel in the vehicle so check under the hood too..
consider properly repairing the hazard light switch via junkyard parts for a cheap price. You invariably have a short that overloads the fuse when you activate the brake lights via pressing on the brakes.
The brake fuse #1 is located inside the truck below the steering column. I am assuming you have verified there is 12v power at the fuse & thru the brake lamp switch (orange wire power in & white wire power out, when pedal depressed) at all times. After the brake lamp switch , power goes (white wire) to the Turn signal/hazard lamp switch & out (dark green wire-rt brake lamp & yellow left brake lamp)