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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: P1298 Code Fuel/Air Metering
Are you sure you wrote the correct code. According to Honda, P1298 is a high ELD circuit voltage. If what I just put is correct, Honda has a service bulletin as this is a common problem( it could be another fault, but this is the most likely choice).
The ELD has a bad solder joint. I have done several of these, you will need to replace the ELD, and this is how.
1 D/C the negative battery cable (make sure you know your radio code, it will be needed to use the radio again)
2 Unbolt the fuse box that is in the engine bay.
3 Attached to the fuse box underneath there is a plastic cover, remove this cover.
4 There is a 3 pin connector under this cover. Remove it
5 Flip the fuse box back over, there are 2 big fuses bolted down, a 40 A and a 80A
6 Under these fuses is the ELD, remove it and pull the bar that sticks out of it.
7 Stick the bar in the new ELD
8 Put everything back together. Do the idle learn (just idle the car for 10 minutes with no loads on such as radio, headlights etc..)
This is probably the first thing they will do if you bring it to Honda assuming the code you have is P1298.
Posted on May 07, 2009
I'm not sure why you got that code definition. P1259 in the factory manual reads, "VTEC system malfunction". According to the manual you are supposed to reset the powertrain control module (PCM) then road test--accelerating in first gear to over 4000 rpm and hold that rpm for at least two seconds. If the code does not repeat then do the road test two more times just to be sure. If the code does repeat during the three acceleration tests, then the VTEC pressure switch and solenoid valve should be checked. If the code does not repeat during the three acceleration tests, then the system had an intermittant fault. As for the TCS light being on, I know this may sound simple but is the TCS switch off? If it is, that will cause the light to come on. The TCS light is more applicable to an ABS brake system problem. If the transmission has a fault, you should see a diagnostic code that begins with P07xx or P17xx. The green D4 drive light may also blink. Based on your symptoms of excessive shock in 1-2 upshifts, the book suggests the shift solenoid valve C could be defective, or the 2nd clutch pressure switch or the circuit could be defective, or there could be foreign material in the separator plate orifice, or seven other possible causes. I would suggest clearing the code and replacing the transmission fluid with genuine Honda fluid and then see if the code and the symptoms return.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
Code p1131 manufacturer control fuel air metering, on a 2003 Ford Taurus. Where is part? Is there an easy way to see if it can be fixed without buying the expensive part?
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
In almost every Ford Product from 1990 to 1999 the most likely cause is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor.
Auto manufacturers have a cleaning cycle built into the MAF circuit. How it works is this; when the key is turned off a larger current is sent through this hot wire causing it to glow red hot, thus burning off any contaminants. Well, almost all auto manufacturers that is.
MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources: dirt, oil, silicon, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the sensor over-estimates air flow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and under-estimates air flow at high air flows (causes fuel system to go lean). This means Long Term Fuel Trims will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and learn rich (positive) corrections at higher air flows.
To confirm this disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, airflow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated.
When this happens Ford says you must replace the MAF since they cannot be repaired. With a dealer cost of about $177.00 and about 1.5 hours of labor the repair is not very expensive. However Ford is not correct. This problem can be fixed and it can be done by just about anyone.
What you need to do is go to the local Radio Shack and get a can of spray tuner cleaner, #64-4315. Or a MAF cleaner at any Auto Parts store. Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable and remove the MAF from the vehicle. Spray the inside of the MAF with the tuner cleaner. Be very careful when you spray the hot wire. It is very thin and if it breaks, you will have to replace the MAF. Clean it well and let it air dry for 15 or 20 minutes.
Don't use carburetor or brake cleaner. They leave a residue and you will be right back where you started. Use ONLY the tuner cleaner, MAF cleaner which dries residue free. When it's dry put it back in the vehicle and reconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable. You will need to drive the vehicle several miles to let the PCM "relearn" your specific driving conditions. Once that is done the codes will not come back and you should notice all the symptoms are gone as well.
Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your car running 100% soon.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
P0115 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensr - open/short
P1159 - Variable Intake Motor Malfunction
P1191/P1193 Limp Home Valve - Low RPM
First, clean the throttle body and check for anything which might obstruct AIR FLOW to it.
The P1159 is the Variable Intake Motor Malfunction. this motor is either 'OPEN'... or 'CLOSED' position. It is located on/in the intake manifold (plenum) and is only opened when cruising... it is closed at idle. If it sticks 'OPEN' is can cause drivability issues.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
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