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Well--do you have a test light? They are about $5.
What you are describing is called a 'constant hot' which comes directly from the battery and this wire usually has an 'inline' fuse. You can pop the hood, find the battery, and try to trace the wire from the battery to the radio. There are two types of fuses used--a tube (glass tube) and a blade (standard and micro). If by happenstance your radio is fused at the fuse box under the dash inside the vehicle you can use the test light by touching the metal part of the fuse to see which one lights up. I am assuming you are trying to bypass the safety switch for the display on the radio (e.g. DVD player). You can tap into the 'hot' fuse with a spade (a type of connection) to the 'display' wire coming from the back of the radio.
I hope this helps.
THERE IS A FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD THAT HAS MASTER FUSES IN IT ,CHECK THOSE, BUT YES IT DOES HAVE A FUSEABLE LINK TO THE SOLINOID, ,ALSO HAVE YOU TRYED TWISTING THE BATTERY CABLES TO MAKE SURE IT IS MAKING A CONNECTION, BECAUSE OF THE CORROSIVE NATURE OF THE QUESTS TERMINALS IT HAS HAPPENED ALOT FOR ME TO SIMPLY TWIST THE CABLE & IT COME ON ,THEN I PULL THEM LOOSE & CLEAN OR REPLACE THE ENDS DEPENDING ON THEIR CONDITION.
i just had this problem with my 93 dakota. my truck had a fuse in the same fuse block as the relays. i had to end up bypassing the relay with an inline fuse holder that i put a 20 amp fuse in i later found out that these trucks had a problem with the auto shutdown system that i was unable to figure out.
I had the same problem, started about 150K miles. It had nothing to do with the fan motor or the switch. my problem was under the fuse box. it was shorting out and i couldn't figure out how to get the wire out or wedge it in to where it would hold, so i got an external inline fuse and bypassed fuse box. when doing that it bypassed the relay as well. by hey, the fan blower works now.