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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Posted on Aug 28, 2008
Items of interest.
1.When a starter fails to start a vehicle, and the wiring has been found to be bad, and changed, one suspects the wiring first.
2.If a starter is suspected to be bad, one takes it out, and performs a benchtest, or takes it to an auto parts store, and see if they can do a benchtest. They need to load test it, not just see if it will Spin!
This test result should stop the needless buying, of starter after starter. If you get three bad starters in a row from an auto parts store, I suggest it's time to change auto parts stores! (Make sure, you are not twisting the S terminal on the Solenoid, when installing the ignition wires)
3.The frame of your vehicle should be the Ground.
Make sure that the motor home manufacturer, hasn't reversed the system for this motor home, and is using the frame for Positive.
This was done in the past for some older vehicles, because it was thought to reduce rusting, of the frame. However, you're dealing with a motor home. Hard to say what type of system they used.
Normal, would be using the frame as a Ground.
In the normal type of setup, of using the frame as ground, make sure where the starter contacts that 454 Chevy engine block, that this area of the starter has no paint on it. The starter grounds through the engine block, and where the starter contacts the engine block.
Make sure also, that this area of the engine block has no paint on it.
Be sure that there are flat braided ground straps going from the frame, to the engine block. If they are an insulated wire, and not braided flat straps, be sure they are about the thickness of your little finger. You'll notice I stated -> They. There should be TWO of them. ONE, will NOT Do!
The frame is the ground. The starter gets it's Ground source from the engine. The engine gets it's ground source from the frame. The only contact the engine has to the frame, is the motor mounts, and the transmission mount. They have
RUBBER in the middle!
There HAS to be -> ground straps! There MUST be TWO of them for the correct amount of grounding!
4.Power to start the starter turning comes from the ignition switch. The reason you have a solenoid on the starter, is so that there won't be a wire that is the thickness of your little finger, going up to the ignition switch!
Check the wire that comes from the ignition switch, for power, once the ignition switch is turned to the Start position.
Battery -> Negative terminal disconnected. Ignition wire from starter disconnected. Put electrical tape on the terminal end, of the ignition wire you removed from the starter solenoid. (Goes to the -> S <- on the solenoid)
Leave the other wires on, put the nut back on, and tighten. (Use caution in this area. The nut is only 5/16 inch, or 11/32. This means that threaded post is TINY. DON'T overtighten! IF, the threaded post starts to turn, STOP! Pull out on the post.
Inside the solenoid cap, that you can't see, there is a square boss, on inside end, of this tiny threaded terminal post. The solenoid cap, has a square hole that this boss fits into. Keeps that tiny threaded post from turning. Inside the cap, the tiny threaded post is connected to a one strand copper wire. If you twist the tiny threaded post, more than 90 degrees, the wire will twist off! Time for another solenoid!
Wheels chocked. Transmission in neutral, and it's best to have the parking brake on, and someone in the drivers seat. Have this person hold their foot down on the brake pedal. This way you avoid any accidents happening to YOU, someone else, or property.
Reconnect the Negative battery terminal. (Order of connecting up a battery is ALWAYS, Positive terminal First, Negative terminal last)
Take a multimeter set it to DC, and to the 50 volt scale. Find a clean, non-painted surface on the frame, (Or scratch a little area), touch the Black lead, (Negative probe) of the multimeter to it. Touch the Red lead, (Positive probe), of the multimeter to the ignition wire, electrical tape partially removed. (Enough so you can make a good contact to that terminal. The tape is there, in case the wire slips out of your hand, and touches a ground. If it has no tape, you'll think it's the Fourth of July under there!)
No reading? Be sure the person inside, has the ignition switch in the starting position. Still no reading? Check that ignition switch out. See if it's getting power.
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
If You can start the vehicle off ether only then you have a fuel issue. the pump is working and the fuel pressure regulator is too. so either the injectors are not getting an electrical signal to open and close of possibly, Your oil sending unit is defective and has shut down your fuel system (a safety).
Posted on May 30, 2009
i have the same problem on a 98 jimmy 4.3 4x4.
i replaced the fule pump and have good pressure.
new wiers & coil (good spark) no MIL & no codes.
will only start when primed. it will run & drive all day
with no problems.
but once it has been turned off (warm or cold) i will
have to prime it once again to start it.
i have another engine that was in it before it spun a bearing.
it ran fine so i know all parts are good.
i swaped the mass air flow and throttle body but i still have
to prime it everytime to start it. am i forgetting something?
should i swap out the intake with the injectors?
any help would be sweet. thanks.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
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