Question about Cars & Trucks
The method i have always used is to slightly heat the hub and hold a wooden block to the back of it. Get a 2lb sledge hammer and hit the block but move the block around the hub while ur hitting it. Its a vigorous job but it will pop rite off after a few minutes of heating and swinging. Just remember to not get it to hot or your axle bearings may melt the grease out of them .
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
The issue you are raising may probably due to your car wheels and not necessarily an issue with brakes. This follows the fact that brakes and car wheels go hand in hand. In the meantime, you can refer to the link below for more details and information regarding the same.
Posted on Nov 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: how do i remove thefront
As you probably are aware, those rotors are mounted inboard of the outer hub flange on your vehicle. Once you've removed the caliper bracket, you can remove the hub. The four bolts that fasten the hub to the steering knuckle most be removed. If you look behind the steering knuckle you'll see them. If your vehicle is four wheel drive, you must remove the front CV shaft nut as well. You will probably have to disconnect the lower ball joint to slide the shaft out of the hub far enough to get clearance for the bottom bolts. Once you remove the hub from the knuckle, you can remove the rotor from the hub assembly. Incidentally, the hub bolts have thread lock compound on them from the factory, that tends to make them really tough to remove however they will come out. Reinstallation is naturally the reverse of removal. I hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
1. Chock your wheels
2. Loosen the wheel nuts on the wheel that you're interested in (not too much - just crack the pressure)
3. Jack the wheel up, remove the wheel nuts and the wheel.
4. At this point you have sufficient room to inspect your brake pads and the cable connection.
5. If you require further access to change pads etc, you may remove the lower LOCK bolt - this will allow you to swing the caliper up and access the pads etc. Be careful not to press on the brake when you're carrying this step out - it might seem like a good idea to check if the piston moves freely, but you'll regret it when you pop the piston clear from the well and have to try to get it and the diaphragm back into place (almost impossible - save yourself the time, effort and headache and get a replacement from the local wreckers!)
6. If you need to replace the entire caliper - you just need to remove the remaining swing bolt - ensure you cover the brake fluid hose to prevent it from getting dirty when you are replacing the caliper. Do not touch the master cylinder or you will have to bleed the ENTIRE brake system rather than just the one line.
7. If you've disconnect the brake fluid line, you WILL also need to bleed the air from that line before you can drive again. Attach a clear piece of PVC tube to the little nipple on the caliper, loosen the nipple slightly to allow it to flow fluid and air through and drop the other end of the PVC into a container. Have an assistance pump the brakes slowly and thoroughly for you whilst you watch the tube for air. Once you are completely certain no more air bubbles are being squeezed out of the system. As you follow this procedure monitor the level of the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet (LHS from memory) and top it up as required.
Incidentally, you can check the handbrake connection by simply jacking the car up and wriggling under for a look...
Hope this helps, Sherwin
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
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